Does not heat- three of the temp sensors read 0 ohms, one is at 7.4 K ohms. Can it be the cause

2005 - 2008
fuse blow is first
temp sender and fuel sender bad, or bad wiring to both
the temp sensor is easy to test just setting in plain set
we can short it out and see if it works/
or like I do is short it with 100ohm resistor. 2 watts or more
this puts less stress non the meter
or buy a new engine temp sensor first it is the most easy and most cheap.
the fuel sender,
unplugged use DMM meter on OHMs scale and see 0 to 25 Ohms per actual levels.
if reads super high or even infinity ,the the sender is dad
the service manual tells how to test the temp sender and its ohms readings, hot and cold. some here are 300 ohms hot and 3000 cold.;
but varies by engine and year too the sender used.
i too bet fuses good.
wires and senders are next. tests.

Great post, well written and great diagnostics, but it is a Bosch, and over engineered and a secretive company as far as technical details are concerned. BUT the over-riding consideration here is that is it a GAS Dryer, and you can't work it it yourself. It can only be worked on by a register gas technician. Phone for a service call. Imm Besser.

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F24 indicates a water temperature sensor error. If during the wash cycle in the water-heating step, the water temperature sensor (NTC) value is out of range the F24 error code will display. Possible causes: Too cold of water or hot water is turned off.

To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Make sure this plug is secure and not loose or unplugged. It is common for the connector plug to come loose due to vibration. If the plug is intact, check the contacts for corrosion. If everything appears as it should, then unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.

Try replacing the temp sensor. You can test the temp sensor if you have an ohms meter that can read k-ohms. If the sensor is good then the board is probably not reading the sensor properly.

you are trying to test, the readings should equal the temp, lets say like now you have it out it should read the temp of air, if you had it in the car and tested it with cold engine and then test as engine runs and coolant gets hot you would see the readings change, this way is okay if it reads the temp of the air but i would also do it installed with engine running .


Okay here is a chart. starting at 300 degrees
300* = 35ohms
210 = 185ohm
160 = 450 ohm
100 = 1600 ohms
70 = 3400
40 = 7500 ohms
20 = 13500
0 = 25000 ohms
-40 = 100700 ohms

• There are more readings in between these temps but this should help i will enclose a web site if you need the other readings. this chart is good and readings have a + or - of 50ohms. good day. www.gmtemperaturesensorchart
  

Hi
You can test the sensor with an ohm meter . Unplug the conecter from the sensor . There are three connecter pins . The top being one and the bottom three.

With the meter leads accross terminals 1 and 2 and the pedal at idle position the meter should read 20 ohms .
At wide open position it should read 6000 ohms .

Then put leads accross terminals 2 and 3 .
At idle position meter shouls read 0
at wide open should read 4600 ohm,

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.

Sounds like you have it figured, need to spend some moola..........

You can ohm out the sensor to the oven should be about 1100 ohms at room temperature.((the sensor is the little rod with two wires attached to it sticking in the oven, as temps change resistance changes which is read by the board) The upper and lower oven sensors are probably the same,you could just swap them to test, but probably not necessary,might also be confusing if you do not do a lot of testing on a regular basis. Remember to unplug unit for safety.

The bake element if it was not bad should be about 20 ohms, bad would read open........

1st make sure CAREFULLY (if this is a normal elec dryer), you're getting 220 to unit.(sometimes 1 of 2 circuit breakers have gone bad). Next, UNPLUG UNIT, I cant stress this enough.
Wiring diagram should be in unit, usually in behind control panel.
While performing following tests also very carefully check all wires and connectors. You have at least 1 thermal sensor probably 2 (different types). Ohm these, at ambient should read very near 0 ohms. These read infinite at predetermined high temp. Ohm across heating elements, correct is very low resistance.