Can any one help? My fan won't turn on. I am thinking it is the fan motor & not the circuit board because I hear a clicking response when touching the fan button going from high to low & low back to high. Does that eliminate the circuit board & tells me the motor is burned before I order.
Easy to take apart so instead of paying a high cost I believe I can reassemble myself. I can't believe all the problems with these units & have contacted Sears & told them to look on their web site & to monitor reviews for this product. Almost all reviews are bad & out of scale 1.....5 it gets a low score.
Can anyone help me wiht the fan problem. I am wondering about cost of shipping & should I order anything else while I am it??? Thanks!
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.
The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.
A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND
You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND
My Dehumidifier is a LG brand. It is a big bother to take apart. I plan to replace the fuse with a switch (thermostat). The switch will reset itself when it cools. That way the motor will start up again when it cools. I will not have to take it apart again after installing the switch.
I selected a switch (thermostat) from DigiKey and another from Mouser. The Mouser part cost less so I went with that one.
Cantherm F1113025ACFA06E (130C Normally Closed)
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1012-ND
Stancor STO-250 (118C to 124C Normally Closed)
http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=STO-250virtualkey51320000virtualkey802-STO-250
I have not installed the switch yet. Hopefully I will follow-up here after I do. Please do not depend my doing that.
PS My LG dehumidifier has given me much grief. First the Fan hub cracked. I re-enfored the hub. Second, my repair failed. I glued the fan to the motor. Third, this thermal fuse blew. Add to that how dificult it is to get to the fan motor. When I replace this de-humidifer it will be with a NON-LG brand dehumidifier.
Good luck to you, Mitch
You can purchase a new fan motor. But the same problem will probably happen again. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a yellow thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the red wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working (in effect it was an open circuit). Once replaced the motor worked fine. this is the second time in about two years that this problem happened. The first time Sears fixed for about $100 and three weeks. This time I saved the money and did the repair myself. I would guess you could buy a new thermistor for about $5.00 from a parts house like digiKey or National Electronics. You will need to know how to use a soldering iron to repair this.
The Fan Motor has a tendency to burn out. Best solution is to replace it with part number 4681A20040K also know as 4681A20040R about $28.49 plus s/h and tax.
PY
Just wondering if you anyone knows what thermistor to get to replace this. Pulled the motor apart and found one labeled: 12a 130C <RS>E JET 123 UMI (white ceramic (resistor style) w/ orange writing) I assume this is the thermistor but, am not able to find this online. I bypassed it and sure enough, the motor is running again but, I imagine something's going to burn out this way. So, can anybody identify this any better and/or point to where to find it?
I have a Friedrich dehumidifier (D65C) with a dead fan motor. The true culprit is the small thermistor between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape. I heard about this bad (open) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I am still trying to find out where can I buy this little thermistor. Radio Shack ??
DOES A DEHUMIDIFIER FAN RUN ALL THE TIME, & THE COMPRESSER KICK IN & OUT AS NEEDED ?
The thermal fuse being talked about in this thread indeed is often the cause of the fan motor not working. Those who call it a "thermistor" are mistaken, it is actually a thermal fuse. A thermistor changes resistance with temperature changes. A thermal fuse blows once the set temp is reached. When that happens the circuit is open. I replaced the blown thermal fuse with one from Radio Shack, it is a higher ampacity at 10 amps rather than the 2 amp original. RS Part # 270-1320, $1.69. Yes, this will allow the motor to run hotter, but I installed an 8 amp 110 v. fuse inline on the power supply cord, which should provide safety.
I am fixing a friends that completely plugged with hair from dogs and humans. This caused the fan to overheat and trip the thermal fuse. That is an easy fix thanks to the above contributions. I also had a brother in law whose house burned down from a dehumidifier that ignited in his basement. I am therefore very leery of replacing that thermal fuse with the 288 degree F fuse. The engineered 262 degrees F is probably as hot as it should get. The inline 8 amp fuse won't do the same job as the temperature sensitive thermal fuse. My 2 cents.
It is great you are helping a friend by replacing a two dollar thermal fuse to keep his otherwise good unit working. I respectfully disagree with your concerns about going to the next higher temp fuse. The Radio Shack fuse I selected will blow at only 18?F higher. My dehumidifier has been working fine continuously now for over 3 years. The fact that so many others on this thread have had fuses blow is evidence the factory fuse has a set point which is too low. The inline 8 amp fuse is a totally separate safety feature and has nothing to do with the thermal fuse. It definitely improves safety because the only other circuit protection would be the 15 or 20 amp breaker at the home's entrance panel. Having your only overload protection be at a 3 or 4 times higher amperage than the unit needs is NOT a good idea. IMHO, all dehumidifiers should have an internal overload protection apart from the home entrance panel. It should be sized to protect the components in that particular dehumidifier, ie. lower amps for a small unit, higher amps for a large one. Dehumidifier manufacturers won't do this because it adds cost. Maybe with all the home fires and factory recalls, the CPSC will do something. I feel much safer with my added protection.
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I have the same problem - compressor runs but fan does not turn on. I hear the same clicking noise when I hit the fan high/low button. Thinking that it was the circuit board and not the fan motor, I ordered a replacement circuit board (and paid the $10 shipping - almost half the price of the board itself - ridiculous!). I just received the board and swapped out the old one and it did not solve the problem. I should have ordered the fan motor at the same time. Did you have any luck replacing the motor? I'm trying to decide if I should order the fan motor and pay more shipping or just junk this thing and get a new one (not a Kenmore!). Any help appreciated.
As other folks have found, the thermal fuse was blown on the fan motor. So, I ordered a new motor from Sears and installed it myself. (Don't try this if you're not comfortable taking apart and reassembling complicated electrical stuff. And, "spare parts" are not good! :o)
I was careful to clean the cooling fins on the front of the dehumidifier before restarting it. Lots of gunk had accumulated there after two years of operating in a dusty basement. I used soapy water, an old toothbrush and a shop vac to do the cleaning.
I need these units to go 24/7 but the little fan motors die as fast as I can install them. I can't find a motor strong enough that will not push tie fan out and loose effeciency. My only hope is buy another set of motors and limit the time they (2) are on. Would like to find a 1/40th HP motor that is no bigger than the one that came as original.
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