Is a fire alarm device box installed with a raco retro ring in a 2 hr wall acceptable or does it have to be secured to a stud.

If you don't mind changing batteries every 6-12 months during the year then you can pick up these smoke alarms from any hardware or even discount store. The also come in blister packs (2 to 6 or more for value packs) Most will screw mount to attach to wall. You can also use self stick foam tape to 'stick it' anywhere. Try to put them in a high spot on wall or ceiling depending on the surface (crumbly textured surface won't stick well. It will have to be mounted with a screw) The higher locations will give you quicker response time but It's harder to get at without a step ladder. Lower units have slower response time as the smoke has to collect and lower to the point where the alarm is.
*** Note; you will need to check your fire code requirements for placement of alarms. (though once this minimal requirement is met there is no reason you can't add more in other locations for added coverage; like a large walk in closet, baby's room, laundry room, etc.)
* Getting back to your question, I'm guessing you have the updated required powered alarms or need to have a "Powered" fire alarm. The newer homes (well last 20 years is new to me) have low voltage power lines running from room to room where the alarms are placed. If you required to install this type of system then depending on the ceiling access (crawl space, lowered ceiling, etc.) and the need to run the wires "hidden" behind wall and ceiling will increase the installation time and labor costs. Electrician or authorized fire alarm technician will be needed. They should check your fire alarm requirements for you local, indicate locations for alarms, run wires, install and test. Check with several companies in your area and get several quotes. Check with Better Business Bureau for rating or complaints.
* With Smart ware being all the rage. It may be possible to use these "smart devices" to alert you to other situations besides just fire hazards. Break in, baby monitor, door ringer monitor, water (flooding), Carbon Monoxide, etc. But the alarm guy should be able to give you more options. Though I's still up to you how much you want to spend.
* Final; You check what the fire codes require. If they called you first then suspect a scam or a sales pitch to get you to buy something you don't require. You can always go with the 'stick on' alarms if that is allowed for your area. Call the fire Dept in your area. Those are the 'good guys' that want to keep you safe.
Aloha, ukeboy57

If the add-a-depth is metal it is recommended to wrap the receptacle with some tape. Slide the add-a-depth over the wires that are attached to the receptacle from the rear. That's why there is a split in the add-a-depth, so you can get it over the wires that are attached to the receptacle. Usually you will have to replace the existing 6-32 x 1 1/4" screws with 2" or so. Then pass the screws through the ears on the receptacle, through the holes in the add-a-depth and into the hole on the box. This assumes that the ears will catch the tile. If the ears don't catch the tile, take a 6 or 8 inch piece of #12 wire and coil it around the shaft of a phillips screwdriver. Cut the coil to length and it is now your spacer that goes on before you insert the screw in the hole.

This one does a pretty good job for mounting a switch in a hollow wall and should work fine for a CMU wall. The expanding "wings" work well in securing the box into a hollow wall. To cut the hole I would use a hammer dill with a small bit (~1/4" should do) and drill a series of holes to cut the outline and knock out the hole and use a masonry chisel to clean up the hole.
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Electrical-Boxes-Conduit-Fittings-Boxes-Brackets/Raco/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbohnZ1z115vzZ1z11eryZ18v/R-100197582/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Why can't you surface mount? There are a large number of low profile boxes that do the trick and save you some time if you could get away with surface mounting.

You need to purchase the wall mount separately. They range from a simple "on the wall" mount to swivels and extending mounts, and can be very expensive for the fancy features.

First, make sure your set is wall mountable. In the center of the rear of the set there will be a square arrangement of bolt holes. I do not know of any newer sets without them, but it does not cost anything to take a look and make sure.

Next, you need to decide on a mount. Personally, I did not want to spend allot, so I found a very inexpensive, yet good quality, "straight" mount at Sears for around $25.00. It does not extend or swivel, but all I wanted was to get it on the wall. Different screws and bolts were supplied with it and I was able to match up what worked for the back of my set.

Now, THE MOST IMPORTANT PART!!!!!

You ABSOLUTELY MUST find where your wall studs are! This is CRITICAL! DO NOT use any kind of expanding bolt to mount your set or it will eventually come loose and FALL!

I had an inexpensive "stud finder" (around $10-15) to show me where the wall studs are... Sears sells them too....You want to bolt your TV wall mount to the studs using 1/4" stud or lag bolts (they look like oversized wood screws) for maximum strength, if your mount will accept bolts that thick. Also use flat washers on the bolts. If your TV mount has its mounting bolt holes too wide apart for bolting to a standard 2" wide stud, mount a 6X6" piece of 1/2 plywood through your wall to the stud, using at least 4 #10 deck screws...it may be overkill, but it will be secure... my personal saying is, "If I can't hang from it, neither can my TV!" This is critical if you want to use a fancy swiveling mount that extends out since it will add stress to where you bolt it to the wall.

My mount was in two pieces.... a section that bolted to my wall, after I mounted a piece of plywood as I described above. This piece has a large pin that sticks up, and the part that mounts to my set (with the screws provided by the manufacturer of the mount) has a receiving hole that slides over the pin. When I need to take my set down, I simply lift it straight up.

I hope my long-winded solution did not bore you, and I wish you the best in hanging your set. Please take a minute and rate my solution.

VA

1) Watts doesn't seem to have installation manual.
Page 7 on sales-brochure/manual shows your product assembled.
http://media.wattswater.com/F-Spcmkr.pdf




2) Add a comment for more free help.

3) Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater straps or any do-it-yourself project. Give phone rep link to brochure/manual so they can speak to you about each individual part while you describe location of your heater and type of wall surface.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Requires wall box.
Put wires into box.
Set box in hole.
Slide long part of box support behind sheetrock as shown in image.
Center box support so it fits behind sheetrock above and below the box
Push box tight against sheetrock and fold flanges into box.
Install 2 box supports - one on each side of box.
Fold flanges very tight so box is not loose >> use pliers to tighten
Install switch or plug or wiring device

The retro-ring 4x4 (#206 Raco) is intended for 4 square boxes. For a 3x2 box you should use Raco 977 box supports: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3XK12?Pid=search

If you have already committed, you can use a Raco 8787 (flat 4x4 cover):
http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/raco/RACO_datasheet.asp?PN=8787&FAM=RacoBoxes

Hmm .. I cannot seem to find a single plate that will do this .. you could use a sectional .. like these..

In some combination they usually can be worked to cover most any device . They arte available at all electrical supply stores ..

Please Vote !!

there are a few ways. If u mean the studs in the wall just use a stud finder sold at lowes or tap on wall till you here and feel a solid sound. Tap a small nail through if u want to b sure. Also outlet boxes are nailed to studs. So tap on the wall near an outlet and u should find one fast. Then using a tape measure go 16" off that stud in the direction you want to hang the tv mount.most studs are in the wall every 16". hope this helpd

You have a few options, First off, I am assuming that the stud you refer to is an outside wall. Assuming that is true, then you have a few options.... one of them is to cut thru the stud and run the vent out. Even if that stud is on a bearing wall ( meaning it is carrying a roof load above it) ... It is unlikely to pose a problem if that one stud has been compromised with it cut out, If that concerns you.. and you are handy, you can open that area of wall up from the inside and box the area that the vent will be located in with short pieces of 2x4 to the studs on either side of it... Another option is to vent the hood up thru the cabinet above and direct that out slightly offset to the stud in the wall..
One thing I have done is to cut the stud out and then to place a piece of 1/2" plywood in the area that the micro/hood will be located and attach that piece with drywall screws to the studs in the wall.. That piece of plywood will help support the stud you cut when you screw it to the adjacent studs and also act as a place to secure the hood mounting bracket on the wall. Granted, it shifts the hood out from the wall 1/2 " but then you have plenty of surface to secure the plate and don't have to worry about hitting a stud or using wall anchors.. I hope you understand my comments..If not...please respond to this and I will provide additional information to clarify this... Hope this helps !