Refrigerator isnt cold anymore but is running

Most likely the leaking is causing the unit to ice over. Since you had the unit replaced and the problem continued, likey the water pressure into the ice maker is low. The ice maker requires a minimum water pressure to close properly.


Make sure the shutoff valve that feeds the fridge is opened all the way.


Does cold water from fridge door run slow?
If yes, likely the water filter in the fridge needs replaced.


If you have an RO filter that feeds the fridge, they are notorious for this problem and require special installation.

It is possible that the defrost cycle is not working. Look for signs of ice built up in the freezer compartment. The excess ice prohibits the air circulation.


If defrost cycle appears working and compressor runs continuously it is probable that the Freon is low or compressor is failing.

the usual tell is the refrigerator gets colder than usual and the freezer does not get as cold. The situation is that the compressor runs until the freezer temperature is satisfied. If the compressor can not achieve the cold temperature of the freezer it will run continuously.

When the unit runs continuously the bi-pass of air is increased bringing more cold air into the refrigerator portion of the unit.

Excess moisture, and the inability for the unit to dispose of the condensed water vapors around the cooling grill can cause ice to build up around it.

Make sure the unit can easily drain the water away from it.


Think of what happens when the freezer door is left open on a refrigerator...

Hope this helps!

It could be one of several problems -

1) Failed compressor relay
2) Failed compressor
3) Failed component in the defrost system
4) Bad door gaskets
5) Failed door light switch

Questions to answer -

1) Was the compressor (large black domed item with three tubes (one stubbed) at the bottom back of the frig.) warm or hot?
2) Was the condenser fan running?
3) Was there thick ice buildup inside the louvers of the back wall of the freezer?
4) Was the fan running inside the freezer?
5) Look up my "Tips and Tricks" article on testing your door gaskets.
6) Open the door slightly and look inside as best you can. Is the light on or off? Continue to open the door until you see the light go on to confirm the light switch is working.
Your response will give us an idea where to look to find the problem.

Your defrost drain in the frezer is cloged. Every day when your refrig sellf defrosts the water should drain into a hole that leads to a tube wich drains the water to a pan under the refrig. You need to turn offrefrig and remove frezer floor and rear wall and clean out hole and tube with hot water.

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.

are you running your ac cause that sounds like the condensation drain tube

Does the engine have a lot of miles(Km) on it--over 100K? If so, try using 'high-mileage' oil in the engine. It will free sticky valve lifters, rings, and soften oil seals. Instead of water sprays, buy a can of 'cold spray' from an electronics parts supply house to test for 'cold' failures--it is more direct and much colder. This may be a humidity problem rather than a temperature problem. I assume that the engine computer was read for any codes stored.

Fill the radiator completely with coolant mixture. Let the engine warm up 10 to 15 mins. Is the upper radiator hose warm? If yes, then the water pump and thermostat are good. If all this works, then the leak is somewhere else. Hope this helps.