I have a pair of mtx pa speakers (1 12 and a horn) they stopped working, we were pushing some wattage, but no more than 150 watts. I took one apart and tried some rewiring and I can't get any response from the woofer or horn. The one speaker throws the "protect" on my head as soon as it gets a signal. Can I save these puppies? with they work with out that chip board/crossover. How can I get replacement parts? Should I just get some other speakers or will it be worth my while to fix these? I think they are BP1200's. Thanks. Scott Kayser (Madhouse Music Production Co.) [email protected]

rms is a method of measuring power (wattage) delivered from an amp to a speaker. In almost every case, wattage capacity of speakers is quoted PER SPEAKER. Likewise wattage output is quoted per amp output channel. Assuming a you plan on a single speaker on each output channel of your amp, you should be in good shape if your speaker wattage capacity equals or exceeds your amp's output rating. I've never seen speakers rated as wattage per pair.

(rms is the dominant way of measuring average watts of an ac sine wave signal)

It's the woofer that will use almost all from this 150 W so if you replace woofer take one of 8 ohm which can handle 150 W and you done

200 watts.

Either components in the SoundGard circuit are blown or the horn driver... VERY SLIGHT chance wires have become disconnected. Open unit an inspect. Use ohmmeter to check the polyfuse and the lamp for open circuit indicating they are blown. Your amplifier should be rated at NO MORE than 150 Watts RMS continuous for safety of the horn. Speaker ratings are based on advertising... so don't believe the specs on power handling... If you dig into the specs you will find for the horn a max of 150 Watts continuous.

That all depends on the wattage of the subs. also the independance of the subs. If your amp is 1400 watt, maximum you want is 2 600watt subs. if your subs are higher you will blow your amp eventually as your amp isnt powerful enough to pump out to that level.You should never have your amp fully turned up to max, 80% is perfect and will not make your amp blow. Hense why you want your subs less than the max output of your amp.

SOUNDTECH CX4C 2-way monitor wedges (2).
380 Watts Power / 190 Watts RMS, Full Range 2-way, 12" speaker, 1" Compression Driver(horn). Carpet Covered, Pole Mount capable, 8 ohm.
Impedance - 8 ohm
Woofer Size - 12"
Magnet Weight - .
Voice Coil Dia. -
H.F. Driver/Exit - 1"/Compression
RMS Power Rating - 190W RMS(8 Ohms)
Dimensions - 18.5"w x 16"d x 27"h
Weight - 52(lbs.)

You need to get another amp for your sub. I would say if you want good quality go for MTX because I have had amps from MTX and never had a problem. what you need to know is look at the fuses on the amp if there are 3 of the 25 amp fuses on there then it should push out about 750 watts but on MTX they under clock the amp so it will push about 800 at 14.4 volts for that you will need a 4 gauge wiring kit with a 60 amp fuse in the fuse link. As far as your other amp hook up the speakers and tweeters to that but be sure to tune in down and you would need a 8 gauge wiring kit. I hope this helps you.

150 watts should be easily handled by four Peavey speakers in the connection you described.. If the Peavey's are 8 ohms, then your total load was 8 ohms for the series/parallel arrangement which is well within the 2 ohm drive capability of the Crate according to specs.

I question if you really mean the speakers were in series? This requires a special cable to do this. Now if you mean they were "daisy chained" like the amp went to one speaker and another cable connected that speaker to another, then you REALLY had ALL speakers in parallel electrically which would be at the 2 ohm low limit of the amp... In either case, with only 1/4 of the 150 Watts to each, the speakers should NOT have been damaged. The amp MAY have been damaged. Try each speaker individually at a REASONABLE level to test.

If you plug into the effects loop out jack,OFTEN the connection to the internal power amp is broken so you might have to arrange a special cable as a wye to go back into the power amp as well as your external amp. In any case pwere ALL interconnected amps, etc from the same power source/receptacle for system safety.

It is a one piece horn need to replace the whole thing. These are not like normal PA speakers where the driver can be unscrewed from the horn lens and replaced.