Converrt USA electronic to european electronics

If the gearing is all free to move and you replaced the motor capacitor that only leaves the motor. If you can remove the motor and test it "out of the gearing" that would confirm it. You have wired the capacitor correctly and used the correct one? Just asking! Are you sure the gearing isn't jammed up?

On mine, one of the two brushes was NOT advancing to hit the motor armature as it wore. Had no power. Had to take unit apart to get to motor. We spread the metal brush holder slightly with a screwdriver and allowed the brush to slide so it can make contact with the armature. Motor now works fine. Shame on the Viking Company for dropping the ball on this product!!!

Seems like the motor got damaged , because of the starting cap fail ... hopefully you replaced the cap with the same one ?

Apparently the switch is very easily available, unknown for what reason. In Europe they say it is not available at all anymore, which I find strange.
However!
Dissasemble, by removeing base plate and screw underneath curved retainer plstic clip in the front. Then gently pry apart with blunt, thin object to split the two halves. Remember to unplug the power cord first. Check the circuit board for cracks, or burnt components. Then suspect the triac/tyristor. Desolder it and test it with a multimeter. (google "test triac multimeter"). Then note the code on the front of the triac, and search for a supplier of electronic parts to get hold of a new one and solder it back on. Note the orientation of the pins, and reattach heatsink if fitted. (Euro version have non.)The triac often looks like a flat design transistor and have a code/part nr that may look like; TCI 226 N, as on my European 230v version. Electronic components suppliers also have interchangeability lists for different manufacturers and use cross reference lists. Should only costs a few dollars or so. Triacs tend to stay fully open when failed, causing full speed in any mode. It is worth a shot.

There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:

Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
Motor start winding

The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.

The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.

The answer is clearly in the starting circuit which doesn't have too many parts, but depends on the type of starting circuit your mixer uses (electronic or mechanical start switch). I'm assuming your mixer isn't very old, as the old units used brushed motors which did not have starting circuits.

The parts of the starting circuit are the motor start winding, the start capacitor and the start switch (probably electronic in your case which is a small silver box with four wire terminals on it). The capacitor should be tested with a multimeter after verifying it's not holding a charge (check with multimeter set to DC Volts, mixer unplugged, should read zero volts).
Start winding should be tested with the meter to measure ohms. Locate the wires leading to the motor (hopefully only three wires) and you should get a reading for all three combinations of measurements (wire 1-to-wire 2, 2-to-3, 1-to-3) if meter indicates open on any of these, motor stator is bad(this is pretty rare and quite expensive).
Electronic start switches are not very simple to test, but if the capacitor and motor test out OK with the meter, and all the wiring is intact (look closely for loose wires, burned wires, poorly crimped terminals, etc.) then it must be the start switch.

Why not use a transformer?

http://www.amazon.com/VOLTAGE-CONVERTER-PRODUCTS-COUNTRIES-SM-1875/dp/B000W91XBO/ref=pd_sbs_a_5

these mixers use an electronic triac(to vary the speed of the mixer) of such low amperage that they run hot normally(to wear OUT), and they don't fuse the units electronics or motor anymore so anything that binds them will short out the triac or motor winding(from heat) and make them inoperable,try and order(what they call) an internal electronic part from these companies and good luck, I tried for 3 months and told them what I needed,they agreed this part was defective, but they wont sell you an internal part(LIABILITY ISSUE) unless your a "company certified technician" go figure, I finally got one through N.T.E.semi-conductors. and my customers HAPPY NOW!!!

Hi harry,the wires should be marked 1-2-3-4,if not i'll give you the diagram.Let me know.

Hi guys,

The only available Kitchen Aid stand mixers on the European markets are the Kitchen Aid Classic and the Kitchen Aid Artisan.

The best way is to contact a Kitchen Aid service center / repair facility in your area.
Here is the European website of Kitchen Aid: http://www.kitchenaid.eu/eu_EU/ka/ka_europe.htm

If you bought a different Kitchen Aid Stand Mixer (like the Professional series) you probably won't find the required parts to convert it to a European model. The only way would be to use a voltage converter.

I hope this helps.