Water leaks about once every two days from our refrigerator which has an automatic ice maker and water in the door. If something is wrong with the water line why wouldn 't it leak all the time?

It's probably not the ice-maker. It has a plugged drain. This is located in the back wall of the freezer near the bottom. remove the evaporator cover...(the back wall of the freezer). Below the coils is a trough with a hole in it where the defrost water drains. This is probably frozen over.
Pour some hot water in to trough until you see drain hole. Keep pouring until water runs thru drain. May have to shut down ref to get it to defrost.

Check for cracks in the water supply tube from the house plumbing valve to the ice maker. Could also be the valve itself.

Turn off valve for a day to diagnose which.

Could be a leak in the water fill tube, you would have to disassemble the unit to tell, sorry.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

You made this statement:

I have to manually make the ice dump. 2) I now have a slight build up of ice under the ice maker where it appears the water from the ice tray is leaking and the inside of the freezer also has a slight build up of frost on the walls.

From my 40 years of experience that statement is telling me that the freezers' evaporator coils are blocked with ice. (i.e frost on the walls) When the coils become blocked or built up with ice everything APPEARS to be working fine but the actual freezer temp is above 17 deg F. An ice maker will not initiate an ice-harvest cycle until the temps are between 14 - 16 Deg F. I.e it is not cold enough to automatically make ice because the ice maker thermostat is not closing at 14 - 16 deg F to start the ice harvest.

So I will pose these questions for you and answer them:
Q? What causes the ice on the walls
A: The unit is not defrosting properly.

Q? What causes a refrigerator to not defrost properly?
A: There are several; reasons that a refrigerator will not automatically defrost
1. The defrost control has failed (Most common failure)
2. The defrost heating element has failed
3. The defrost thermostat has failed
4. A wiring problem in the defrost circuit

Now.... you also made this statement:
I now have a slight build up of ice under the ice maker where it appears the water from the ice tray is leaking
You may have a leaking ice tray but it is quite rare. What usually causes an ice build up directly under and ice maker is the inlet water valve leaking / bypassing water when it is supposed to be shut off. An inlet water valve will bypass water when the internal diaphragm fails or debris is blocking the needle seat of the diaphragm. Either way the only remedy is to replace the inlet water valve because the valves are NOT repairable.
Reach inside your freezer and squeeze the rubber tube that fills the ice maker with water. If there is a problem with the inlet water valve the rubber tube starts freezing up with ice. Eventually when the rubber tube is totally frozen the plastic tube on the back of the refrigerator that connects to the rubber tube either leaks or separates from the rubber tube and ports water onto the floor.

If you really want to prove that there is a problem with the inlet water valve turn the ice maker OFF. Remove the plastic tube from the rubber ice maker fill tube (Just pulls out) and place it in a bucket overnight. IF you note water in the bucket the next day then the inlet water valve has for sure failed. Sometimes they LEAK intermittently when the failure first begins so the bucket test may not reveal a leaking inlet water valve. The key here is you said you have water UNDER the ice maker and you suspect a tray leak.

Here is what I recommend you do after the overnight plastic tube in a bucket leakage / bypassing test:
1. Reinstall the plastic tube on to the rubber fill tube.
2. Turn the ice maker ON
3. UNPLUG the refrigerator and so a manual defrost by removing the freezer contents then directing a fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (Makes a water mess)
4. Return the unit to normal service
5. Check for ice production 6 - 8 hours after you performed the manual defrost.
If you have automatic ice production you most likely have and automatic defrosting problem... BUT.... there can be a problem with the freezer door / light switch. The door light switch is a 3 contact switch. One contact is a common power wire and the other 2 contacts turn on the light and provide power to the ice maker (and some times the evaporator fan also depending on unit design)
Test the door light switch amd make sure the light will go off when the door is closed. (depress the plunger) If the light stays on the door switch is bad.

Hopefully you have enough information to understand what is happening with your refrigerator and what the causes of the symptoms you have are.

I think in the end you will have to repair the automatic defrost problem and replace the inlet water valve. Do not forget about testing the door light switch.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Check whether the water is reaching the ice maker. If something is blocking its way get it cleared. Once it start taking water it should produce ice.

Good day,
The house water supply is connected to a dual water valve on the bottom rear of the machine. It splits there going to the ice maker and water in the door.
If the ice maker side is feeding water to the ice maker even though the ice maker is in the off position means the diaphragm in the valve is leaking and must be replaced. Very common problem.

Probably a broken plastic tube from the solenoid valve to the water outlet tube. It will stay dry until you try to get water then it may take a few days to dry out.

Good Luck,
Gilsh

check for plugged drain at back bottom of freezer if plugged/frozen over defrost and clear with hot water and remove all ice.

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about the reasons why ice makers do not work.

Ice Maker Problems and Ice Maker Troubleshooting

heatman101


iuoiout

my maytag had cloged defrost drain cleaned drain all ok