Gas oven won't light. igniter

The igniter is the most commonly defective part for a gas oven that won't turn on. The igniter has two main functions. First, the igniter draws electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it. Second, the igniter gets hot enough to glow and ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter gets weak, it will fail to open the safety valve correctly. If the valve does not open, the oven will not heat. To determine if the igniter is defective, observe the igniter when the oven is on. If the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without igniting the gas flame, this indicates that the igniter is too weak to open the valve. If the igniter is weak, replace it. If the igniter does not glow at all, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.
Kenmore Oven Won Turn on

from I review I found it might be this...Simple replacement of Glow Bar igniter requires removal of entire front panel with many screws
so sounds like your igniter might be shot - it heats up to ignite the burners - easy fix - get a long torch lighter and just light the gas after turning it on -

most likely you have a bad ignitor,you can't lite it like older ovens it has an electronic ignition.when the ignitor draws a certain amount of amps.the gas is let in and the flame ignites,if it glows it still can be bad,once it glows it should ignite the flame within 40 seconds.part number 492431 and it's around 70 dollars. go here http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Bosch-Parts/Range-Parts/Model-HGS435UC01/1794/0124002?searchedModel=HGS435UC&blt=11 go to oven cabinet parts and look at part 309,this is your ignitor.

Hello there Gary and welcome to FIXYA

Usually when an oven won't bake properly or stops baking , it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself. The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame. I would disconnect the power to the oven then unplug the wiring assy and remove the part then clean all of the terminals really good then reassemble it then try the oven again if it still does not work properly i would go ahead and replace that part ok
Please keep me posted on how this is going i can give you more help but this is the most common problem ok?
Best regards Mike

Hello,
If what your experiencing with the oven is that the oven igniter glows but their is no flame,the cause of that is going to be because the igniter is weak and not getting hot enough to open the gas valve and allow the gas to flow. I know it seems improbable that since the igniter glows that it's the problem but i tell ya with 100 assiduity that's exactly what the problem is. Replacing the igniter will fix your oven.


GENE

Check to see if you are getting gas to the oven burner. If it will light with a match then look into adjustment of the flow plug, but if it won't light, then look at the gas valve or switch.

next time send the brand name and model number so i can look up your machine,if it's a gas stove most likely it will be a bad ignitor,even if the ignitor glows it still could be bad,if the flame doesn't ignite and the ignitor is glowing change it out,if it isn't glowing pull out the ignitor and check it with a meter,common problem.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Your model number was missing digits so I used this manual:
GRP17WEWWW
http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=981380002.PDF
and if your unit is older this one:
http://genet.geappliances.com/DocSearch/Dispatcher?REQUEST=ShowPDF&FileName=49-8514.PDF

Automatic Ignition

The oven burner is lighted by electric ignition. To light the burner, press the pad for the desired electrical function and press the INCREASE or DECREASE pad until the desired temperature is displayed. The burner should ignite within 60 seconds. After the oven reaches the selected temperature, the oven burner cycles off completely, then on with a full flame to keep the oven temperature controlled.

GE contact data:

If you don't understand something or need more help, call:

GE Answer Center®

800.626.2000
24 hours a day, 7 days a week


Both the new and OLD units use a glow bar for lighting the burner. Most likely your Glow Bar has failed: GE PN: WB2X9154

The Glow Bar is item 316 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=214914&diagram_id=20725728#d20725728

If you net search the WB ge part number you can save lots of money!!!!
http://www.amazon.com/WB2X9154-Gas-Range-Oven-Igniter/dp/B004H3XQPM

If the glow bar is glowing and you still do not get ignition respond here and we can go through troubleshooting.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

Zanes, Your oven igniter is getting weak. The glowing bar next to the manifold must draw between 2.7 and 3.3 amps before the safety valve will acknowledge that it's actually hot enough to ignite gas and open up. Your igniter is most likely right at ~2.5 amps and the valve is "wanting" to open, but won't without some persuasion (hammer anyone?). The part number for your igniter is 9753108 and is available. Your local appliance parts house may not carry it, but there is a substitute that they WILL carry. Its' part number is WB2x9998. It's a universal flat igniter. Unplug the oven before repairing it, OK?