Gearcase is leaking oil - Washing Machines

Are you sure you saw a worn belt on your washer? The model number you provided has no drive belt. This model washer is a direct-drive system that uses a motor coupling in place of a drive belt. The most common cause of a no spin problem is either a lid switch malfunction, or a broken motor coupling. The following link explains how to diagnose the problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3965207-whirlpool_top_loader_no_spin_problem

Included are parts resources (if required) and instructions on how to replace each part if needed.

As far as the oil leak is concerned, it depends on how significant the leak is. The gearcase (transmission) contains an amber colored oil. Some of this oil can leak out through a small breather hole on the top of the transmission case. If all you are getting is a small puddle that does not appear to be getting worse, you may continue to use the washer (sometimes for years) with no problems. If the leak is bad, however, it may be time to replace the gearcase. Replacing the gearcase is not a difficult task, but it can take about an hour or two for the inexperienced.

IMPORTANT: The washer needs to remain in the upright position, or you can inadvertantly drain your oil through the breather hole on top of the gearcase. It is okay to tilt the washer back as you described, but DO NOT lay it down.

The following link explains step-by-step how to replace the gearcase:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576575-replacing_a_gearcase_on_whirlpool_manufa

Read through the link provided to see if this is a repair you feel comfortable with attempting. The average cost of a replacement gearcase is about $150. You can purchase replacements at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

NOTE: Sometimes Sears offers a refurbished gearcase for about half the price of a new one. It will be listed in their parts listing with an "R" after the part number is available.

The first three sites I have listed also include helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifing the parts you need. It can also assist you in determing how to assemble or disassemble your appliance. The gearcase is listed as item 9 under the "Brake, Clutch, Gearcase, Motor and Pump" heading.

My advice to you is to read through the links provided and review the symptoms for the lid switch and motor coupling first. If those parts appear to be fine, inspect the interior of the washer by removing the case so you can get a real good look at how bad the leak is. If there is an oil spray pattern all round the interior cabinet walls of the washer, its time to replace the gearcase. If the leak is just a small puddle, clean it up and place a sheet of cardboard under the washer so you can monitor how much it leaks in the future. My experience has been that its not worth the effort to attempt to remove the gearcase and try to reseal it. If you're going to go through the whole process of removing the gearcase, you it would be smarter just to replace it with a new one, rather than possibly having to repeat the process again if sealing it doesn't work.

If the gearcase is still working, does not make any loud or unusual noises and the leak does not appear to get any worse, you may still get some good use out of the washer. Please let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you decide.

NOTE: Here is a view of the mechanical section of your washer, based on the model number you provided:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fP0112199-00005.png

The motor coupling is listed as item 13. Your gearcase (transmission is listed as item 9.

oil under you machine means a leaking seal on the transmission. That means that the transmission will need to be replaced. The parts alone are $150-200. Trying to replace the seal is usually very time consuming and may not help or may only be a short term fix. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help.

This depends on how significant the leak is. The gearcase (transmission) contains an amber colored oil. Some of this oil can leak out through a small breather hole on the top of the transmission case. If all you are getting is a small puddle that does not appear to be getting worse, you may continue to use the washer (sometimes for years) with no problems, If the leak is bad, however, it may be time to replace the gearcase. Replacing the gearcase is not a difficult task, but it can take about an hour or two for the inexperienced. The following link explains step-by-step how to replace the gearcase:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576575-replacing_a_gearcase_on_whirlpool_manufa

Read through the link provided to see if this is a repair you feel comfortable with attempting. The average cost of a replacement gearcase is about $150. The part number for your washer is 3360629. You can purchase replacements at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

NOTE: Sometimes Sears offers a refurbished gearcase for about half the price of a new one. It will be listed in their parts listing with an "R" after the part number is available.

All these sites are reputable and offer great service. Prices vary, so shop and compare. The first three sites I have listed also include helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifing the parts you need. It can also assist you in determing how to assemble/disassemble your appliance. The gearcase is listed as item 9 under the "Brake, Clutch, Gearcase, Motor and Pump" heading.

The decision to replace certain parts can also depend on the age of the washer. The date of manufacture is determined by the SERIAL NUMBER on the appliance. The following link explains how you can determine your washer's age:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576437-determining_the_age_of_your_whirlpool_ap

Whirlpool washers are usually pretty resilient and fairly easy and inexpensive to repair. I have known many of them to last 15 to 20 years. $150 is still cheaper than purchasing a new washer. The decision is still yours, however.

My advice to you is to read through the link provided and review the steps for removing the washer case. Remove the exterior case so you can get a real good look at how bad the leak is. If there is an oil spray pattern all round the interior cabinet walls of the washer, its time to replace the gearcase. If the leak is just a small puddle, clean it up and place a sheet of carboard under the washer so you can monitor how much it leaks in the future. My experience has been that its not worth the effort to attempt to remove the gearcase and try to reseal it. If you're going to go through the whole process of removing the gearcase, you it would be smarter just to replace it with a new one, rather than possibly having to repeat the pocess again if sealing it doesn't work.

As I stated earlier, some of these leaks are insignificant and the washer will run with no problems. As long as the gearcase does not make any loud or unusual noises and the leak does not get any worse, you can still get some good use out of the washer. Please let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you decide.

the washer can spit oil if it overloaded or a seal is broken. if it is only a little bit of oil, its nothing to worry about. if it is alot then you might want to start looking at new washing machines. once the gearcase runs out of oil then the washer will not work it cost over 400 to replace the gearcase so it is better to buy a new machine

Leaking oil can be an issue if the problem becomes worse. This is can be an indication of a gearcase (transmission) that may be going bad. However, I have seen washers in this condition for months (years) and still function. Sometimes, excess oil will come out through a small breather hold on the top of the gearcase. Ultimately, if the problem continues to get worse, you will need to replace the gearcase.

I am posting a link that explains how to replace the gearcase if you decide to repair the unit yourself. I'm also posting it so that you have the knowledge on how to remove the washer case so you can inspect the interior:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

This is what you need to do for now. Remove the washer casing, using the instructions I have provided, and take a look at the interior cabinet walls. If you see oil spray marks all around the interior, replace the gearcase. If the oil you are seeing is minor in nature, clean up and any spills/drips and place a clean sheet of cardboard under the washer so you can monitor how much is leaking. A tell-tale sign that the gearcase is beginning to go bad, is slow spin speeds and/or grinding noises. The gearcase also has a series of nuts that hold the upper pan to the case. You may also check to see if all these nuts are tight and not causing leaks. You will probably need to remove the gearcase in order to access them, however.

Pcappliancerepair.com has some excellent exploded view diagrams of your washer that you can use for reference. Just type in your model number and locate item 9 under the "Brake, Clutch, Gearcase, Motor and Pump" heading. The gearcase sells for about $144. You can also check searspartsdirect.com, appliancepartspros.com, or repairclinic.com to see if they carry the part any cheaper.

NOTE: If you DO order this part, make sure that the container is shipped upright. There are container markings on the box that indicate this, but those instructions sometimes get ignored. If the container is laid down, the oil can leak out through the breather hold on the gearcase.

This is not a difficult repair as long as you follow the steps provided. If you wish to pursue it (if needed) and still have questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

most likely just clutch ck for oil or water on it if oil most likely top seal gearcase is leaking ..remove agitator cap remove bolt in middle of agitator ..remove console screws remove clips under console holding cabinet on remove cabinet ..lean washer back remove pump then motor remove the 3 bolts holding gearcase in remove gearcase clutch is silver disk on top of gearcase with band inside ..band is actual clutch may try cleaning it but not hopeful about it being a permanet fix

Wow...your posting was hard to read, but I managed to "muddle" through it. I understand that you need laundry and experienced no leaks of any kind. Well...I don't have a good answer for as to what may be wrong. You could have experienced a momentary leak due to heavy vibration from an unbalanced load, or...you had a minor leak that sealed itself over time, I just don't know. That's the nature of this business sometimes. This is also why customers get frustrated by repeated service calls when the appliance doesn't do what it was doing wrong when the repairman shows up. Then, as soon as the repairman disappears down the street, the problem comes back. Believe me, I've seen this over and over. The best advice I can give you for now is to continue to monitor your washer with the cardboard underneath. If the problem comes back, no matter how minor, get back to me and let me know where it is leaking. Until then, if the washer does NOT have any problems continue to use it as you normally would. Good luck to you Tom.

PS To avoid confusion - to get back to me, all you have to do is reply to this post with your comments and I will receive an email notification.

Okay...what you are talking about is a honey colored oil, right? The gearcase (transmission) is filled with this oil. Sometimes the gearcases are prone to leaks. There is a small breatehr hole onthe top of the gearcase housing that oil will sometimes weep out of when it expands. This could be a potentially serious problem, as a leaky gearcase COULD mean it is beginning to fail. But...not always. This is kind of a gray area when it comes to this model washer. As leaking oil is generally considered a bad thing, the gearcase could actually run for quite a long time and experience no failures, or further leaks. I would keep the oil cleaned up and run the washer as you normally would. If the leaking becomes progressively worse, the tub begins to spin slower than usual, requires assistance to spin, clothes aren't spinning dry enough, or if the gearcase starts to exhibit loud noises, stop using the washer and plan on needing a replacement gearcase. They generally run about $150 and can easily be installed by the DIYer. If you wish to pursue that as an option sometime, just let me know and I can provide you with the steps required to do so. At this point, monitor what you have and let me know how much the gearcase is leaking.

As far as the water leaking is concerned...you need to determine WHERE it is coming from. If it is leaking in the center under the wash tub in the location of the gearcase, the tub seal probably needs replaced, or you may have a crack in the tub somewhere. If the washer is leaking near the front, this is generally a sign of a leaking water pump, or associated hoses. Check to make sure the hoses are clamped snug. If the washer is leaking in the back somewhere, I would suspect a leaking water inlet hose, or drain hose. The best way to make the determination is to place a sheet of cardboard under the washer when it is empty. Do a load of wash and pull the cardboard out when done. Note where the leak patterns are and get back to me. I need to know where the water is coming from before I can give you a correct assessment. I hope this helps guide you in the right direction.

if oil on clutch ckd top of gearcase under clutch drum top gearcase seal may be leaking

There is a breather hole in the top of the gearcase. Yoy probably had some leak out through there when you laid the washer over. If it was not over to long you will probably be ok. there is no way to replenish the oil it would require replacing the gearcase.