I am installing a powerstar AE115 which needs two 40amp circuits with 8 awg wire. Do I have to run two separate 8-2 wires or may I run one 8-3 and split the common neutral?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
make sure you have the water connections right. the inlet goes on the blue side. Also, your pressure must be a minimum of .8 psi. If not there will be no hot water and the neon will be off. other possible causes might be a crossover in your plumbing or a stuck flow transducer. Here is a link to a guide to explain how to check these items. http://efficientelectricwaterheaters.com/Tech-Support/PowerStar-Tech-Support.asp
Copy following link: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html AE115 has two elements and requires two 40 amp breakers. A#125 has three elements and requires three 40 amp breakers, and is considered 'whole-house' Do not install a tankless water heater because they cost more to install, and cost more to operate and maintain.. Add a comment and ask question.
2) The AE125 has 3 elements, and requires 3 wires.Each wire is sized #8 copper, and is connected to 40 amp breaker, up to 100 feet. Over 100 feet, use 50 amp breaker and #6 wire. Oversizing breaker and wire is smarted and more efficient than undersizing.
3) Often a separate subpanel is installed to provide 3 extra spaces.
4) Makes sure main breaker panel can accept additional 120 amps of draw without overampping panel ... and starving other appliances of full power.... that will damage appliances, overheat motors, and damage main panel and overheat main breaker. You want to oversize, not undersize electric service when installing tankless electric, which is why I do not recommend tankless electric installation, including issues of costing more to operate, and expensive repairs, and general money risk-nuisance of owning tankless vrs tank-type heater. http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html#stress
Product has 10 year limited warranty against defects in workmanship, failed parts, failed heat exchanger for original homeowner with receipt. But does not cover neglect, failure to follow maintenance, installation etc. Pg 23 example manual You generally have to pay for service call to verify installation, then send tankless into factory, or have service technician repair unit, at your expense minus cost of parts http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Bosch-AE115-AE125_manual.pdf
Test elements: Remove both wires off element. Set multimeter to read ohms. Watt and volt rating appear on side of each element. Ohm = Volts squared divided by wattage. For example: Assume 240Volt circuit (240 Volts squared = 57600) Assume 9000 watt element > check side of element for rating. So 57600 divided by 9000 watt element = 6.4 ohms http://waterheatertimer.org/images/ohm-reading-for-emements.jpg
Have you de-limed this unit? Is there a check valve causing closed system in the plumbing, that might also cause decreased water flow? Are there reduced-flow faucets or clogged aerators? What happens when suspect cut-out element is no longer connected? The unit should continue heating.
You've done the required first-step troubleshooting and maintenance. If thermal cutout keeps tripping, and unit is actually reaching 185, then something is wrong with wiring, temperature sensor, gas valve, or PC board. Or combination of factors. Call service technician, and open following link for some Bosch tankless resources including Bosch contact information: http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Bosch-Tankless-water-heater.html
I don't have specific suggestion for tankless tripping breaker or if that is a circuit breaker problem or a tankless problem.
1) Move wires to another same-size breaker and see if problem persists.
2) Compare amp draw on tankless label with wire size and breaker size amp rating. For example 30 amp breaker using 10ga wire is rated for 80% of listed amps or 24 amps.
According to the user manual below, it's a 50 amp heater, therefore, you need 6 AWG electrical cable and a 50 amp double pole (220 volt) breaker in the main service panel.
You need two hot wires and a ground wire. The cable would be specified as 6/2 w/ ground. The 2 hot wires in the cable would be red & black or black & black -- these attach to L1 & L2 respectively. ( L = Line )
Hi Is this powerstar AE115 a tankless water heater? I suspect the 115 designator in the model number means it runs on 115 volts. And what is the second Tank ? Storage or an electric water heater? Both should be rapped with insulation to hold the heat. Meaning storage or electric water. Don't rap a tankless water heater. At the very least get a licensed electricen in to make sure you electrical service will support a 240 volt system. If it can , do it. Think of electricity as a river flowing. Volts are the speed the water flows. Amps are the force ( Also caled Impedeance) that push the water.( And spin your meter like a top I might add.) And resistance as how many bolders, Rocks, Old fords that are in the river bed slowing down the flow of water.Now here is where OMES LAW comes in. E= I x R. (E) volts is equel to the (I) impedeance (Amps) multiplied by the ( R) resistance. You can spin this in a clockwise direction and find the net value by dividing one from the other to get the net. ( I = R * E ) If This is true ( and it is ) if we double the voltage (current) we can realise a reduction on the Impedeance (Amps) of up to 1/2 of its current value.In other words if you were useing 100 amps @115v you will use 50 amps @240v Depending on the resistance. Sorry but I forget the voltage drop on 100 feet of copper wire but I assure you its real low.But your best bet would be to use a tankless water heater core in you boiler that you use for heat if you got one and save the electric for summer mode.
×