At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
MS291 Does NOT have an oil adjustment screw. It is an auto oiler. Make sure the ports are clean and oil is coming out running the saw with chain off. Then add a little canola oil to your chainsaw bar oil and thin it down. You will get a better flow. Stihl has a poor design on this model.
? 5:57
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dj0Voh3TTM
Jan 21, 2014 - Uploaded by RepairClinic.com
The most common reason for replacing the oil pump is ... ...Chainsaw Oil Pump Replacement - Homelite Chainsaw Repair (part #309514001) ... spark plug wrench, cord, clutch removaltool, adjustable wrench, needle-nose pliers ... The chainsaw guy shop talk Repair Homelite 150 chainsaw Auto Oiler ...
homeguides.sfgate.com > Real Estate Advice > Basic Real Estate Advice
The Homelite XL chain saw is designed to use one tank of oil per each tank of fuel. Fill the oil ... Push the guide bar toward the saw, and remove it and the chain. Clean the ... Automatic Oiler and Oil Line Replacement ..... My Ridevisit'Cars-My
? 2:44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnNTJ3xI_wo
Mar 24, 2012 - Uploaded by 343HFD
Refurbished, carb cleaned/adjusted, new filter, fixed automaticoiler. Anyone know the nut size for the bar ...
? 6:38
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmUkieIP-vw
Jan 20, 2012 - Uploaded by gregthegardener
lf your chain saw isn't lubing the chain it can cause serious chain ... How to Replace the Bar & Chain Oil ...
what brand saw? Stihl saws are made to run Stihl oil. If you are runnin other oil, the viscosity wont be the same as the pump is designed for, and the oiler may pump more then it should. The oil adjustment screw should be a single flat head set screw on the underside of your saw near the sprocket. Alot of saws are not equipped with an adjustable oiler. Professional saws and larger displacement saws will have the feature.
Hello. Thin your bar oil just a wee bit with some kerosene. If you have a gallon of bar oil add 1/4 cup of kerosene, stir it up and you will be fine. For starters also, directly apply some bar oil to the chain so that you are always using a well lubed chain. Joe
The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for the Oil system and is sketchy at best. Oiler components and part numbers are listed but may be on different illustrations. They are also beneficial with disassembly/reassembly: Poulan.com (all models) http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/POULAN-WEED-EATER/75.59.html The dash number of your serial number is the type.
Oil System Plugged:
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck. Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear. Please see the IPL to aid in oiler component identification.
It has an outboarb clutch if necessary use this as a guide for removal. I think you need the special tool (Google Search): R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
The fuel filter is in the gas tank. You need a small stiff wire or something small with a hook on it. There is a fuel line that runs to the bottom of the gas tank. The fuel filter is on the bottom of it. You need to pull that fuel line out of the gas tank to change it. Be careful not to damage the fuel line while trying to fish it out of the tank. It's hard to replace. The air filter should just be under the cover for the carburetor.
For TuneUp
You need to set the mixtures for the carburetor. There is usually a rubber grommet on the side of the housing near the carburetor. You will find a Low and High adjustment screw. The default setting for the H and L carburetor jet is usually to turn them in all the way till they stop and back them out a turn and a half. You should start the chainsaw and warm it up untill it will run without choking. Make sure that the air filter is cleaned. Start by turning the low adjustment screw out. You will notice that the rpms should start increasing. keep turning it out until the rpms start to drop then turn it back in a quarter of a turn from where it idled at the fastest rpm. At this point you may need to adjust the idle adjustment till the saw idles at a good speed but not fast enough that the chain turns. You may need to readjust the idle speed so the chain doesn't turn during idle. To set the high adjustment screw will require that you run the saw at max RPM. It may be a good idea to get someone to hold the saw so the bar doesn't hit anything while you're doing this. Hold the throttle trigger all the way down and then turn the high adjustment screw in and out until you find maximum rpm. Turn the screw back in a quarter turn. Your saw is now tuned for the elevation you're currently at.
For chain oiler:
Remove the housing that covers that bar and sprocket. There are two plates on each side of the bar that set over the studs.They may be identical or slightly different depending on the saw but at least one of them will have a hole in it for the oiler. If you remove the bar and both plates you will see the oiler hole on the saw housing. This oiler injects oil through the plate and into a small hole in the bar where the chain picks it up and carries it around the saw. If this hole becomes plugged with sawdust it will keep your saw from oiling the bar proplerly. This hole should be cleaned out periodically. It's not a bad idea to remove the whole chain periodically and clean the chain guide all the way around the bar and get any sawdust buildup out so the oil can flow better.
Sharpening Saw:
Whether you learn to do it by hand or buy a saw sharpening attachment keeping a sharp chain is #1 in my book for keeping your saw running properly. The more pressure you have to exert to cut makes the saw run hotter, the bar wears out faster, the chain wears out faster and the sprocket wears out fast plus it's just plain harder on you to run the saw. In my timber cutting days I would file my chain every time I filled the saw with gas. Here is a helpful video for sharpening a saw. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkSYov5jcO0
The chain oiler injects oil into the rear of the bar where the cover mounts over the sprocket. Take the bar off and clean out the oiler hole. There is usually some buildup of sawdust in the hole. Clean out the grove that the chain guide runs in all the way around the bar. You can see the injector nozzle under where that bar was when you removed it. Sometimes there is an ajusting screw there to increase oil flow.
×