Maytag Neptune TL FAV6800AW clutch covered in oil

Tom,



The clutch pulley is one assembly. I don’t believe he One-Way roller clutches/bearings and large wrap spring are not replaceable.



It may be an issue with the large comforter. Have you had successful spin cycles complete with the comforter as the wash load in the past? If you thru the lid redistribute the comforter will the spin cycle complete? If so then I believe the machine can’t redistribute/balance that particular wash load. If you watch the process when the TDS (Tub Displacement Sensor) signals an unbalance error condition to the Control Board the machine will try several attempts to redistribute the load. If it fails it signals the “dC” error and or “uC”. I’m not sure what the Control Board programming is looking for to signal a “uC” error code. I would think multiple “dC” error code events in the current wash cycle. I feel that oil you see is coming from the tranny via the agitator shaft. Take a look at page 19. “”Special Instructions Water Leak Around Pulley On Tub Bottom””



It’s a description of cause and effect for different failure scenarios related to contamination of the roller clutches. When those roller clutches become sticky/slightly rusted the “dc”/uC” errors begin. I have a technical write somewhere on this forum of what I feel is happening but it boils down to the One-Way roller clutches failing to lock up completely in spin cycle (CCW rotation) causing the agitator shaft rotate slightly rotating the tumblers on spin up of the wash basket unbalancing the wash load. Maytag hangs out their dirty laundry on this issue and describe it in theSM page 21.



Quote’’Will Not Spin

• During fill cycle – If machine tumbles and spins

simultaneously replace clutch assembly.”” End quote.



If you release the washer top during fill cycle you we see the machine spins slowly CCW spin direction. Caution turn of the water source valves to the machine before you do this. You may spray a bit of water around.



When the machine enters spin cycle the large wrap spring come under tension with CCW rotation of the motor driving the clutch pulley in CCW rotation. The tumblers will turn slightly (1/8 of a turn at most, my observation) until full compression of the large wrap spring in the clutch pulley hub. Once that happens the spinner shaft, agitator shaft, and spinner plate are rotating the tranny and wash basket CCW so the tumblers are not driven to rotate (agitator shaft is spinning same direction same RPM as the transmission). In wash/agitate cycle the motor turns CW driving the agitator shaft CW to rotate the tumblers only the spinner shaft remains stationery unless the roller clutches are frozen up.



The One-Way roller clutches rotate freely CW direction. Did your machine use the upper roller clutch assembly if so did you clean that assembly up? As you read in my post my series 16 machine did not use the upper bearing ring. If you feel you need to replace the clutch I recommend this Clothes Washer Clutch - 25001169 for the FAV6800AW and LCD flavor FAV9800AW. I asked myself why spend $140-$170 for a clutch which per the Maytag service bulletin TDL-0136-B has no explanation of what the new and improved clutch design is. Maybe it's hermitically sealed and NASA approved for a Mars mission… the price is out of this world. They should have designed it right from the get go, along with the corrosion issues with the left lid lock. My machine failed with clutch issue at the 3.5 yr mark. Those are the two big issues I find with the machine design. I can put up with the tangle issue :)…… Sorry for the long post I get carried away. Anyway I don’t know if I’m helping or adding to the issue maybe we can also get an opinion from a repair tech. I will continue to try to help out with my limited hands on experience.....Rich



Tom,

The clutch pulley is one assembly. I don’t believe he One-Way roller clutches/bearings and large wrap spring are not replaceable.

It may be an issue with the large comforter. Have you had successful spin cycles complete with the comforter as the wash load in the past? If you thru the lid redistribute the comforter will the spin cycle complete? If so then I believe the machine can’t redistribute/balance that particular wash load. If you watch the process when the TDS (Tub Displacement Sensor) signals an unbalance error condition to the Control Board the machine will try several attempts to redistribute the load. If it fails it signals the “dC” error and or “uC”. I’m not sure what the Control Board programming is looking for to signal a “uC” error code. I would think multiple “dC” error code events in the current wash cycle. I feel that oil you see is coming from the tranny via the agitator shaft. Take a look at page 19. “”Special Instructions Water Leak Around Pulley On Tub Bottom””

It’s a description of cause and effect for different failure scenarios related to contamination of the roller clutches. When those roller clutches become sticky/slightly rusted the “dc”/uC” errors begin. I have a technical write somewhere on this forum of what I feel is happening but it boils down to the One-Way roller clutches failing to lock up completely in spin cycle (CCW rotation) causing the agitator shaft rotate slightly rotating the tumblers on spin up of the wash basket unbalancing the wash load. Maytag hangs out their dirty laundry on this issue and describe it in theSM page 21.

Quote’’Will Not Spin
• During fill cycle – If machine tumbles and spins
simultaneously replace clutch assembly.”” End quote.

If you release the washer top during fill cycle you we see the machine spins slowly CCW spin direction. Caution turn of the water source valves to the machine before you do this. You may spray a bit of water around.

When the machine enters spin cycle the large wrap spring come under tension with CCW rotation of the motor driving the clutch pulley in CCW rotation. The tumblers will turn slightly (1/8 of a turn at most, my observation) until full compression of the large wrap spring in the clutch pulley hub. Once that happens the spinner shaft, agitator shaft, and spinner plate are rotating the tranny and wash basket CCW so the tumblers are not driven to rotate (agitator shaft is spinning same direction same RPM as the transmission). In wash/agitate cycle the motor turns CW driving the agitator shaft CW to rotate the tumblers only the spinner shaft remains stationery unless the roller clutches are frozen up.

The One-Way roller clutches rotate freely CW direction. Did your machine use the upper roller clutch assembly if so did you clean that assembly up? As you read in my post my series 16 machine did not use the upper bearing ring. If you feel you need to replace the clutch I recommend this Clothes Washer Clutch - 25001169 for the FAV6800AW and LCD flavor FAV9800AW. I asked myself why spend $140-$170 for a clutch which per the Maytag service bulletin TDL-0136-B has no explanation of what the new and improved clutch design is. Maybe it's hermitically sealed and NASA approved for a Mars mission… the price is out of this world. They should have designed it right from the get go, along with the corrosion issues with the left lid lock. My machine failed with clutch issue at the 3.5 yr mark. Those are the two big issues I find with the machine design. I can put up with the tangle issue :)…… Sorry for the long post I get carried away. Anyway I don’t know if I’m helping or adding to the issue maybe we can also get an opinion from a repair tech. I will continue to try to help out with my limited hands on experience.....Rich

Tom I have to break this post up im mutiple comments. The Problem with the Membrane Console has to be fixed first. Read thru and see what you think.



“”The clutch pulley is one assembly. The reason I asked is appliance parts person quoted me a price on with pulley and without.””



Did the appliance parts person give you a Part Number for the clutch with and without the pulley. Did you eyeball the parts he is talking about? What was the cost? I don’t know of a separate pulley and roller clutch assembly/upper ring but I’m an owner with limited experience and would like to know what P/N this guy is speaking too and how he crossed reference to the FAV6800A machine.



“”The dreaded dC error is back again. For all size loads. No amount of redistribution helps.””



Tom is the wash tub banging around with the dC error? With no clothes in the wash basket does a Spin Only cycle complete? I would release the top of the washer and raise just enough to observe the wash basket and tumblers in a spin cycle. Throw in some wet towels and kick off a Spin Only cycle. Does the wash basket oscillate back and forth to extremes? Do the tumblers rotate more than an 1/8 of a turn as the wash basket starts to spin up?



“”If you feel you need to replace the clutch I guess that's my next step, although it sounded like the only thing that goes wrong with the clutch is the spring breaks or the bearings lock up, neither of which seem to fit my situation.””



I believe if the upper bearing ring were frozen up you would lock up the Motor in wash and Spin cycle and possibly here belt screech and maybe trigger a “Lr” error code for Locked Rotor condition. If the clutch mounted one-way roller clutch froze up I believe in wash cycle the wash basket would try to rotate CW. In Spin Cycle you would never spin up the wash tub would oscillate to extremes triggering dC/Uc errors. I feel if the TDS was not signaling properly for the tub swings the machine would walk across the room and shut down by unplugging itself or self destruct.



If the Large Wrap Clutch spring breaks the Wash Basket would not spin up and the tumblers would rotate. This I proved when I had my first Clutch Malfunction with dC/uC error codes last December. I removed the Large wrap spring in the clutch pulley just to know the failure results of a broken clutch spring.



“”Just wondering how much money I should sink into this machine.””

Not only money but how long can you tolerate the wash pile building up and what is your PITA tolerance. I have about $300 in a clutch purchase the only used part I haven’t purchased on ebay. I buy no parts retail. When it’s time to replace the outer tub bearings that will be new from ebay. I’ll paste in my most recent ebay purchase at the end of this post for 99 cents it’s a local pick up.



“”I've had to replace the left lid switch twice already.””

You mean the Left Lid Lock assembly? I hoped you saved them did you open them up? I clean them up and reuse. They do suffer from corrosion issues with it’s location to the bleach dispenser. See this post. Were you failing with error codes OP,OD,FL to the console?

Tom I have to break this post up im mutiple comments. The Problem with the Membrane Console has to be fixed first. Read thru and see what you think.

“”The clutch pulley is one assembly. The reason I asked is appliance parts person quoted me a price on with pulley and without.””

Did the appliance parts person give you a Part Number for the clutch with and without the pulley. Did you eyeball the parts he is talking about? What was the cost? I don’t know of a separate pulley and roller clutch assembly/upper ring but I’m an owner with limited experience and would like to know what P/N this guy is speaking too and how he crossed reference to the FAV6800A machine.

“”The dreaded dC error is back again. For all size loads. No amount of redistribution helps.””

Tom is the wash tub banging around with the dC error? With no clothes in the wash basket does a Spin Only cycle complete? I would release the top of the washer and raise just enough to observe the wash basket and tumblers in a spin cycle. Throw in some wet towels and kick off a Spin Only cycle. Does the wash basket oscillate back and forth to extremes? Do the tumblers rotate more than an 1/8 of a turn as the wash basket starts to spin up?

“”If you feel you need to replace the clutch I guess that's my next step, although it sounded like the only thing that goes wrong with the clutch is the spring breaks or the bearings lock up, neither of which seem to fit my situation.””

I believe if the upper bearing ring were frozen up you would lock up the Motor in wash and Spin cycle and possibly here belt screech and maybe trigger a “Lr” error code for Locked Rotor condition. If the clutch mounted one-way roller clutch froze up I believe in wash cycle the wash basket would try to rotate CW. In Spin Cycle you would never spin up the wash tub would oscillate to extremes triggering dC/Uc errors. I feel if the TDS was not signaling properly for the tub swings the machine would walk across the room and shut down by unplugging itself or self destruct.

If the Large Wrap Clutch spring breaks the Wash Basket would not spin up and the tumblers would rotate. This I proved when I had my first Clutch Malfunction with dC/uC error codes last December. I removed the Large wrap spring in the clutch pulley just to know the failure results of a broken clutch spring.

“”Just wondering how much money I should sink into this machine.””
Not only money but how long can you tolerate the wash pile building up and what is your PITA tolerance. I have about $300 in a clutch purchase the only used part I haven’t purchased on ebay. I buy no parts retail. When it’s time to replace the outer tub bearings that will be new from ebay. I’ll paste in my most recent ebay purchase at the end of this post for 99 cents it’s a local pick up.

“”I've had to replace the left lid switch twice already.””
You mean the Left Lid Lock assembly? I hoped you saved them did you open them up? I clean them up and reuse. They do suffer from corrosion issues with it’s location to the bleach dispenser. See this post. Were you failing with error codes OP,OD,FL to the console?

Additional comments;



“”Several of the panel buttons no longer respond (Superwash, Normal, Wrinkle Control). No beep, no light up. So I can't even perform diagnostics on the board since these buttons are used in combination for different checks.””



I would try to reseat the ribbon cable from the Membrane Console to the Control Board socket see this post for the process. It’s covered in the SM but found it a bit vague. If you decide to open up the console remove the three # 15 Torx screws at the top of the console. Follow the SM for releasing the consol from the washer top. This a little tricky, if not done correctly you will break off the mounting ears on the right side. Ask me how I know….:)



That enough for tonight I know this is all a pain but if you want to keep the machine I will offer what little knowledge I have.



Here is the TDS check;

Tub Displacement Sensor Diagnostics check. This test is done with the washer lid raised see page 19 for the details.


It is possible the Tub Displacement Sensor may have failed try this check which is in the Troubleshooting guide stored in your washer console or refer to the SM.

a. Enter the Service Mode by pressing and holding the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for three seconds or the display reads “00”

b. Press the Super Wash key display reads “in”…something like that.

c. Press Delicates the Display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).

d. Push tub to the back right corner of the machine the display should change to “UO” (Unbalance open). Release tub and the display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).

e. Press Hand Wash.

f. Pull tub to the front left corner while pushing the tub down the display should change to “UO” (Unbalance open). Release tub and the display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).

If you get these results your TDS sensor should be just fine.



How I buy my parts.;

Additional comments;

“”Several of the panel buttons no longer respond (Superwash, Normal, Wrinkle Control). No beep, no light up. So I can't even perform diagnostics on the board since these buttons are used in combination for different checks.””

I would try to reseat the ribbon cable from the Membrane Console to the Control Board socket see this post for the process. It’s covered in the SM but found it a bit vague. If you decide to open up the console remove the three # 15 Torx screws at the top of the console. Follow the SM for releasing the consol from the washer top. This a little tricky, if not done correctly you will break off the mounting ears on the right side. Ask me how I know….:)

That enough for tonight I know this is all a pain but if you want to keep the machine I will offer what little knowledge I have.

Here is the TDS check;
Tub Displacement Sensor Diagnostics check. This test is done with the washer lid raised see page 19 for the details.

It is possible the Tub Displacement Sensor may have failed try this check which is in the Troubleshooting guide stored in your washer console or refer to the SM.

a. Enter the Service Mode by pressing and holding the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for three seconds or the display reads “00”

b. Press the Super Wash key display reads “in”…something like that.

c. Press Delicates the Display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).

d. Push tub to the back right corner of the machine the display should change to “UO” (Unbalance open). Release tub and the display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).

e. Press Hand Wash.

f. Pull tub to the front left corner while pushing the tub down the display should change to “UO” (Unbalance open). Release tub and the display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).

If you get these results your TDS sensor should be just fine.

How I buy my parts.;

I have about $300 in a clutch purchase the only used part I haven’t purchased on ebay.



I meant $300 in used parts, Clutch is new. Update about $300.99 to date. I have about $300 in a clutch purchase the only used part I haven’t purchased on ebay.

I meant $300 in used parts, Clutch is new. Update about $300.99 to date.