Timer Doesn't shut off

timer is sticking or bad replace the timer

Check voltage supply to the timer, make sure power is still supplying
the timer motor when the water shuts off, at which time if the timer motor is powered will close the next set of contacts and start the wash
cycle. Make sure you have the correct timer.
Also check the safety switch for the lid, if the lid does not close that switch or if its bad, the wash cycle will not start.

it very much sounds that the moving parts the timer are worn or seize recommend new timer

when on auto the heat comes on and then shuts off and then the timer advances,when the heat comes back on the timer stops advancing,when on time dry the timer will advance no matter what's happening with the heat.next time send the brand name and model number so i can help you better,if it's gas you could have bad gas coils,you'll have heat for like the first 15 to 30 minutes then when the coils get hot they fail and no heat until they cool down,also if the vent line and the duct that the lint filter goes into hasn't been cleaned out the heat will shut down and if that happens the timer isn't gonna move.check that out and let me know what you find and send the brand and model number.

Your Lid latch switch is most likely broken, you will need to replace it, you can not bi pass this switch. you can order it from your closest appliance distributor.
Unplug or turn off breaker to washer.
Replace by removing front panel, should be 2 screws at the bottom of washer.
Slide and depress lid latch down to release.
unhook wires and reinstall the same.

It must be the timer that is causing the control board or "computer", as you call it, to shut the cycle down, especially when the machine shuts off at almost exactly the same point in the cycle. The control board energizes the timer motor and monitors changes in the timer inputs. It will open the power supply line relay and shut off the machine if the timer inputs do not change within 5 minutes of continuously energizing the timer motor. It means the timer motor is stuck or the timer internal cam is broken at the point where the machine shuts off. Replace the timer (part #22002867) to fix the problem.

Disconnect power to the washer and remove the three screws securing the console's rear cover plate across the console's rear top edge.

The console has six locking feet that secure it to the top cover. Gently rock the top of the console forward then push the bottom of the console toward the back of the machine to release the locking feet from the slots on the top cover. Once the locking feet are released, remove the timer knob by pulling it off the console; lift the console then flip it forward onto the top cover to access the timer.

Disconnect the timer wiring harness then remove the timer mounting screw.

Lift the timer locking tab near the end cap and slide the timer toward the end cap to release the timer retaining tabs from the slots in the console. Lift the timer off the console then install the new timer.

Align the three tabs of the timer with the slots on the console then insert the tabs into the slots.

Lift the locking tab slightly then slide the timer back into position until the locking tab can engage with the slot provided in the console. Secure the timer with the mounting screw then reconnect the wiring harness.

Reinstall the console by lining up its six locking feet with the slots on the top cover. Insert the locking feet into the slots then rock back the console into position. Secure the console's rear cover plate across the console's rear top edge with three securing screws.

If your machine has a mecanical timer then then the timer is bad, if your machine has digital functions then you have a bad control board.

Check for a faulty water level switch. It's a diaphragm-like device with a small plastic tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level increases, so does the pressure on the air in the tube and when it reaches a certain level, it activates the switch to shut off the water and signals the timer to start the appropriate cycle. Check for any obstructions in or damage to the plastic tube. The switch can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity means a bad switch. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

you have a bad timer.

Go for the timer. The timer is nothing but a bunch of contacts and some minor electronics. When the timer reaches the end of it's cycle, it closes a set of contacts which sends power to the buzzer, which could be bad, therefore continued buzzing. If the timer continues on to the next cycle either the electronics or contacts are shot. This is also age dependant on the dryer how the timer is built. You might go into price shock depending on model. This is not ruling out that if you have a buzzer on off switch might be bad, but I doubt it. Hope this helps. If you are unsure and are good at reading schematics and a meter, then you can be sure.