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When distribution came back to B.C. Rich in 1974, a system of serial number coding began using a 5-digit code (XXYYY) with the first 2 digits indicating the year and the last 3 indicating the production number. That would make the first guitar of 1974 to have been numbered 74000, followed by 74001, 74002, 74003, etc. Throughout the '70s, production numbers were low enough that the serial numbers pretty much reflect the year of manufacture.
Sounds like perhaps a Les Paul Special II, but more detail is needed to say for sure. There was a lot of variation in their Les Paul models. Posting a photo of both sides and the headstock is best.
-Has the guitar any binding, and what colour?
-Is the back of the guitar white or all black?
-Exactly what is on the front of the headstock, 'Epiphone', the 4-diamond logo, anything else?
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Very hard to track serial numbers on these guitars
they made and sold millions since the 80's
they are worth $100-$300 and more depending on condition and exact model
there is very little info available online with the exception of eBay and other sites for price reference... Rich Warlock
I'm not sure if you have access to a local Guitar Center, but their guys can walk you through the schematic pretty easily. You'll probably have to go to one of their locations and take to guitar dept/
There are a few different ways to do this, and unfortunately if you have not done this kind of work before you could end up damaging the guitar more than fixing it. A few things to look for: Sight down the neck from the top of the guitar looking down along the edges. If you see a concave (banana shaped) bow in the neck, it needs adjustment. Almost all guitars including yours have a neck adjustment rod that can alleviate some of the bow. If however the neck is convex ( higher in the middle) the neck would need adjustment too. You want a very slight bow in the neck to allow for weather changes as wood expands and contracts with the weather. Other adjustments are down on the bridge. There are usually very small allen or hex key adjustments for each string to raise and lower the action (height) of the string. Again, any adjustments here can also affect the tuning of the string up and down the neck (intonation). The guitar may not end up being tuned at one place one the neck while in tune on another. I would highly recommend taking this to a music store with a qualified person to adjust it. Many times the action can be lowered and the string height adjusted for better playing ability. You can inform the technician now what you see and what you want done. Also let them know if you have a heavy or light touch on the strings as this can make a difference when they adjust it too. At the same time a lot of them also restring your guitar for you and you may request a lighter gauge of string allowing for better play too. Good luck.
Guitar manufacturers use generally one of two different knob types: (1) knob has a small set screw of some type holding it on or (2) press fit onto the shaft of the tuneing pot (volume knob in your case).
Now, the problem is if it is NOT a set screw type, it is press fit. You see press fit used most of the time on lower-end instruments (and a few high end). The BEST way to get a stuck volume know off is to get a shoe string, loop part of it under the knob, brace the guitar firmly and PULL SLOWLY WITH FORCE. Realize that it is possible to damage the guitar if you **** on the string too hard.
I have never seen where a stuck know did not come off (or hear of someone breaking their guitar doing it).
I have also resorted to using a small screwdriver: work it way under the know and gently twist it to loosen it so it can be pulled off with a string or your hands.
Be carefull not to scratch your guitar!
Good luck,
-mike
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