I am replacing an old Tork mechanical Light contoller with a new Tork digital light controller.The unit will control an outside pole light but on the same circuit I have manually switch contolled lights on either of my entrance door.The terminals on the new controller differ. Can you help me out? I am having difficulty with the wiring diagram as it applies to my situation.

Sounds like not getting power to motor on dial to turn it, might be bad wire going to timer.

15351 is 240 Volt timer... requires 240 Volt to run clock motor.
You need a neutral wire to connect 120 Volt lights.

15351 has same wiring as Tork 1104
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Tork-1104-wired-to-control-120.jpg

http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html#basic-wire

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) GE 15071 (Tork SS20) is single-pole timer, and cannot be wired as 3-way timer
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-timers.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15071

2) Check wire nuts are tight
Remove light bulb and spray WD40 into socket. Reinstall light bulb

3) Reset timer using paper clip or tooth pick, then reprogram to see if functionality is restored

4) Move timer to different location and see if it controls different light

5) Buy another 15071 from home depot.
Remove bad timer, take photo of wires, and install new timer same wire-for-wire.
Return bad timer to home depot in new package.
This is GE's extended warranty plan, but do not mention warranty at return desk.

5) Intermatic and GE are fierce rivals in the timer business.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-timers-and-manuals.html
Intermatic makes their own products. GE timers are generally made by Tork. Both companies sell timers worldwide.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

T-103 has 120V clock motor with 5 terminals A 1 2 3 4
Tork 1101 has 120V clock motor with 4 terminals L 1 X 2

T103 is DPST and can control one-or-two 120Volt loads, or one-or-two 240Volt loads.
Tork 1101 is SPST can control one 120Volt load

Common ground between these timers one 120 Volt load
Changeover for one 120 Volt load:
White wires T103 terminal A go to Tork terminal X
Black wire T103 terminal 1 goes Tork terminals L and 1 (there is brass connector plate that connects L and 1 - if connector is missing, jumper between L and 1)
Black wire on T103 terminal 2 goes Tork terminal 2

If Load requirement is greater than T1101, Grainger sells T103 clock motor for $16
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INTERMATIC-Time-Clock-Motor-1PNK1?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/timer-accessories/timers/electrical/ecatalog/N-8hi

How to wire T103
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T103
T1101 wiring manual
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/110111021103WIRING.pdf

Tork 1101 is a 120V mechanical dial-type timer

Tork 1100 series

To set timer, you lift and rotate dial. Line up current time with the word Time located to lower right of dial.

Next, place trippers on dial. Dark trippers are OFF and light-colored trippers are ON

Tork 1101 is 120V timer.
120V Black Hot wire from circuit breaker connects to Pole L
There is a brass bridge that connects Pole L and Pole 1 >> if this is missing, put a jumper wire that connects both Poles
120V White Neural wire from circuit breaker connects to Pole X
White wire going to Load (lights, fan, motor) connects to Pole X
Black wire going to Load connects to Pole 2

Up-vote if this information was helpful. Thanks for the feedback.

http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/TORK.DG100.120.INSTALL&OP.pdf

Tork DG100 7-day single channel digital controller
125 Volt clock motor
NC and NO poles

Tork 1103 is mechanical timer with 125V 3 watt clock motor
Dial on front face rotates when clock has voltage
Dark and light colored pins connected to dial, and turn timer on and off
There is removable brass bar that connects poles L and 1

You have 4 wires:
Red >>> I'm not sure about this wire, is this Hot wire coming from tandem breaker?
Black >>> this is Hot wire coming from tandem breaker
White >>> this is Neutral wire
Bare ground

Test wires:
Please test Black and Red to bare ground to see if these are both Hot
Test Hots to white to confirm this is Neutral
Solution ASSUMES black and red are both Hot, and white is Neutral

You have 2 problems:
Prob 1) Clock does not rotate dial: so clock is bad -or- clock not wired correctly
Prob 2) You are able to control 4 plugs using manual override, which means load wires are correct
However, you want to wire timer 'without red wire' (which is confusing, since red wires are connected to outlets)


Solution Prob 1:
1) The diagram show the N or Neutral wire is connected to Unmarked pole on timer
2) Black Hot has to be connected to pole L
3) Unmarked pole and pole L must be wired with 120V as shown before dial will rotate
4) If wiring is correct and dial does not rotate, then clock motor is bad
5) If dial rotates, check outer rim of dial to see if you have dark and light pins for on-off functions
6) Notice that all the Neutrals connect on Unmarked pole

Solution Prob2:
Are you saying that the household wiring extends beyond the 4 plugs, so when you turn off the 4 plugs, it also turns off more plugs and switches farther down the line? If so, you need to wire plugs with separate hot wire.
Let me review features on timer which might help:
1) There is removable brass bar between poles L and 1
2) If brass bar is removed, then you need Hot wires on both L and 1... but you can jumper between L and 1 with short black wire
3) If brass bar is there, then one Hot connected to either L or 1 will power both clock and load.
4) Timer is DPST double pole single throw ... so you can control 2 different loads ... one load connects to Unmarked pole and pole X ... another load connects to Unmarked pole and pole 2

If brass bar is removed:
Jumper between poles L and 1 ... so only one Hot wire is used on your timer.

Below shows jumper on poles L & 1: hot to load is on pole 2

According to Intermatic conversion chart, Tork 1191 is same as Tork 1101.

Link to 1101 .pdf
Link to Tork manuals

Tork 1101 is dial-type mechanical timer. Dark pins turn OFF. Light pins turn ON.

Clock motor is 120V
Hot black wire from breaker connects to pole L
Neutral white wire from breaker connects to pole X
Removable bridge connects poles L &1 together
If bridge is gone, Hot from breaker must also connect to pole 1
Black wire to Load connects to pole 2
White wire to Load connects to pole X

Timer can control 240V Load if removable bridge between poles L and 1 is taken out.
Timer clock is still 120V: so 120V Hot still connects to pole L and neutral from breaker connect to poles X
240 V circuit has two hot lines: Hot line 1 and Hot line 2
240 volt Hot line 1 from breaker connects to pole 1
240 volt Hot line 1 to load connects to pole 2
240V Hot line 2 goes directly to Load and does not connect to any pole

You can replace the clock motor for $16 ...
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=Wh40&op=search&Ntt=Wh40&N=0&sst=subset
... but if the mechanical timer mechanism is worn out, then that is not repairable. To check mechanism, lift timer dial and rotate tripper pins out of way, then click manual override on-and-off >> if override works fine, and lights come on then motor is probably the problem.

If you buy a new T103, the insides might snap right into old timer box without needing to replace the box. To remove insides, depress retainer spring located at top, tip out timer, and lift to remove. New timer has 4 tripper pins. Save old tripper pins, and tape them inside box.

Unfortunately the bulbs that light up your climate control are not replaceable and in order to get it to light back up again you need to replace the climate control unit.