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Re: Please can you tell me if it is possible to do a...
There is a definite art in doing a rolled hem at the best of times and on a delicate fabric you have to be good, there is no way of explaining you need to be shown.
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Most likely. Most overlockers can make a rolled hem. You will probably want to do a lot of practicing on scrap chiffon before trying it on the real thing. It involves using only one needle, both loopers, and making appropriate adjustments to the machine.
Your owner's manual should have instructions for rolled hem settings. My Bernina manual has a the following settings:
Medium weight fabric
80/12 Universal needle
3 cones serger thread
Upper looper 3-5
Lower looper 7-9
Left needle (no thread)
Right needle 3-5
Stitch length 1-1.5
Cutting width 2-3
Differential feed N
Can use woolly thread in the upper looper, but the tension may need to be loosened since the woolly nylon thread will stretch.
No you do not need the cutting blade to serge but you shouldn't have to remove the blade it you should be able to push the knob at base of blade inward or pull it outward to turn blade downward out of the way.
http://stitchcraftonline.com/blog/?p=42 - 71k - similar pages
Aug 5, 2009 ... One of my favorite uses for my serger is to do rolled hems. A rolled hem is were the machine folds the fabric under a tiny bit and then stitches it.
this sounds like an overlocker/serger machine you are using? if the fabric is catching on the overlocking tongue it could be a number of factors, have you lifted the top cutting blade out of the way and forgot to put it back into place? That would be my first thought, the top and bottom blade move against each other cutting the fabric. Rolled hemming usually requires the blade to be set on about 2, or middle of its setting range, the stitch finger is pulled back out of the stitching area, top looper thread is loosened off and bottom looper thread is tightened up, resulting in the top looper thread wrapping around the edge of the fabric and pulling the cut edge down under within the seam, forming the rolled hem.
Rolled hemming on any overlocker is usually achived the following way. Right hand needle only.
Blade over to the right usually to cut wider than normal but you can vary this to suit the fabric and stitch width you want.
Thread in this needle and the upper and lower loopers. If you can source any, use woolly overlock thread in the upper looper, this fluffs out when not tensioned and covers the fabric to give the look of solid stitching. Change upper looper tension to about 2 and lower looper tension to about 6 or 7.
The lever by the plate is usually to control the little stitch finger where the stitches are formed, move it backwards and it should move back towards you?? If this happens, then you want it in the retracted (towards you) position for rolled hemming so the stitching is much smaller and the fabric can roll. Normally this stitch finger holds the fabric firm for the loopers to form the stitch over for your normal 3 or 4 thread overlock.
Now test stitch and see how it looks. Tighten the lower looper thread so it lays right beside the needle on the underside. You may need to then tighten or loosen more the upper looper, you want the upper thread to wrap all the way around to the underneath against the lower looper thread and needle.
The cut edge of fabric should roll to underneath inside your seam. Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5 or so to close it right up tight. This uses heaps of thread so I usually test everything else, then close it up at the end to minimise waste.
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