Laser 56 howls like a banshee, but only when burning on medium (yellow light) Just serviced by authorised tech. Replaced burner mat, heat chamber gasket, vent gasket, and fuel filter. Did not have this problem prior to service. I'd ask my guy but I think he's off racing sprint cars someplace. Annoying problem! Can you help? Thanks, David

You did not say, but I would guess you have a Laser 56 heater. If so, you need to have the combustion chamber overhauled. The burner mat has lifted and the ring will need to be replaced. Cost will be around $150 or so. It's time, 13 years is a long time ago.

Tom

The high yellow flame is probably due to a loose burner mat or a warped burner ring or both. As for the howling I'm not sure about that but would be related to the airflow, maybe something to due with the blower.

Pilot,

You need to have a new mat put in the bottom of the burner. When this mat lifts, sometimes the flame will cause a moaning noise with a large yellow flame. A new mat and maybe a burner ring will fix ya.

Tom

Gartyl,

Your Laser 55 burner mat has erroded away. The fuel is pooling someplace in the burner rather than spreading smoothly over the bottom. The stuff on the igniter may be hardened carbon from a poor flame. Bottom line is some burner work. A new mat, ring and cleaning the burner air holes is in order. Don't be surprised if the heat chamber is cracked beyond repair when you get it off. NOW for the bad news. The Laser 55 and 72 are older heaters. You will find just about all the electrical parts are going to be hard to find. They are no longer being made. Your 55 will be able to use the newer 56 blower, mat and burner ring. You will also be able to use the heat element off a 56 as well. If there is a problem with the fuel pump causing your poor flame you will be out of luck.

Good luck,

Tom Hawkins
[email protected]

Here's a link regarding burner mat replacement for a 56 if you have not already figured it out.

http://www.rural-energy.com/publications/catalog/document/318

Replacing the burner ring (center piece?) will do wonders. When it's warped the stove won't work properly.

Hi EJAKFbanks,

I believe by your description and my 8 years experience with Toyo Stove repair that you are missing part of the firing sequence. The firing sequence for a Toyo Stove L 56 is to blink on the burner light for 7-9 minutes, then it clicks up to the medium light (amber-yellow color). The medium light blinks and that is when the fuel pump kicks on and starts to pump. If the stove ignites, the medium light will glow for a second and then drop down to the low light (green) The low light will burn for awhile and at this time you will see a blue flame in the newer heat chamber models or a red glow, and perhaps some blue flame in the older heat chamber models, then the stove will kick up to the medium light for a bit, and then to the high light. An EE6 error code will show only when the flame is extinguished after actually taking place and a burn did occur in the chamber on low. An EE6 is usually one of 2 things: 1. There is an inadequate fuel supply for the stove to maintain a low cycle burn, or the medium, or high. Each cycle consumes more fuel than the prior one. Inadequate fuel supply can be due to a restriction in the fuel line such as icing like cholesterol in a persons arteries, or a plugged sump screen, blocked fuel line or filter, too low a quantity of fuel in the tank, or a fuel line that is not all gravity feed, as in, the fuel line runs down, down, and then up a few feet to get to the Toyo. In that case, the fuel has to rely on head pressure to get to the stove. Head pressure is the atmospheric pressure pushing on the fuel in the tank to force it up against the earth's gravity forces. Solution: You can find any restriction in the line, replace the filters, clean the sump screen, put heat on the fuel line to thaw any icing blocks. 2. An EE6 can be caused by a carbon chain developing from the burner ring, flame sensor or chamber wall to any metal part in the burn chamber. A carbon chain essentially "shorts" out the ground for the unit and the Toyo will shut off on EE6. Solutions:You can bang the side of the Toyo (Old frustrated Alaskan solution) which really just jars the carbon chain loose, clean the flame sensor, clean the fuel nozzle with a straight 3 inch wire, and stick a screw driver in the igniter (red wires) hole and rattle it around real good (another old Alaskan trick). Often, those three things will get your stove running again if it is a carbon chain. The problem will likely occur again, but it will buy you some time until you can get a tune-up done. Most likely, you need a tune-up. Question: When was your last tune-up? Toyo's should be tuned up every 2 years. Tthe book says every one year, but in my experience, every two years is the best bang for the customers buck. The three year mark usually begins showing signs of metal fatigue in other parts of the burn chamber/heat exchanger system so the costs rise a little each year, unless you are a lucky Toyo owner and for some odd reason, your stove can go 3 years between cleanings without any ill effect. If you get your stove running, run it hard on High for about 2 hours to clean and burn all the carbon out. Good Luck! toyotech, North Pole, Alaska

Hi sammysamual,

My business is Laser Heating Service in the North Pole/Fairbanks areas of Alaska. An EE2 error code is usually fuel related. What does your Toyo do before the EE2 code shows up? The firing process is the burner button blinks green for 7-9 minutes, then it clicks up to the medium, yellow light which starts flashing. That is when the fuel pump starts pumping. If you hear a fairly audible tic tic, or thump thump coming from the fuel pump then that is your indication that the fuel pump is starving for fuel. You either have a fuel line restriction, too little fuel, a clogged filter, a clogged sump screen, or rarely, a failing fuel pump. Usually, it is a fuel line restriction.

If you hear no tic tic or thump thump and it just goes off on EE2 then the problem is in the burn chamber. You may have a carbon chain in the chamber causing the flame sensor to temporarily short out. You can clean the flame sensor, fuel nozzle, and igniter to resolve this problem until you can get your Toyo tuned up.

the toyostove is basically a glorified monitor heater.  its components are a combustion blower, an air circulator fan, a flame pot, a flat wick or burner mat, a solenoid pump, an ignition element, double  walled intake, exhaust pipe.   the combustion blower is a glorified vacuum cleaner motor. it sucks in cool air and channels it to the combustion chamber along the sides (round cylinder) kero enters on the burner mat where it ignites. the solenoid pump keeps adding kero until the flame detector spots or heats up. air flow to the pot is regulated by a damper in the combustion air blower line. if the "O" ring in the damper is missing or hardened it will not regulate the air flow which is necessary for combustion.  replace this "O" ring should take care of your problem.