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I dropped my camera which was less than a year old from a distance of less than 2 1/2 feet. Now the shutter will not open or opens only intermittently. Originally, I could open it once or twice and I could actually get a picture or two in. After that, it would shut itself off and take no more pictures for several hours. The next day it might turn on again once or twice but then it would refuse to open the next time I tried. As time went on, it opened less and less and now won't open at all. The camera is now exactly a year old and useless. Can it be fixed or is it junk? If it can be fixed, what do need to do?
Same thing basically, camera fell a few feet off table, now camera won't focus... extending the lens fully with optical zoom causes it to shut down when lens reaches full extension. I keep hearing it's as well to buy new due to high repair costs, but it's a discontinued model. A shame, it seems to be one of the better Q&D point & shoot models from Kodak.
It seems like the mechanism that moves the lens has been knocked out of alignment, removing the case doesn't show any easy way to get to the mechanism. Pity. Same thing basically, camera fell a few feet off table, now camera won't focus... extending the lens fully with optical zoom causes it to shut down when lens reaches full extension. I keep hearing it's as well to buy new due to high repair costs, but it's a discontinued model. A shame, it seems to be one of the better Q&D point & shoot models from Kodak.
It seems like the mechanism that moves the lens has been knocked out of alignment, removing the case doesn't show any easy way to get to the mechanism. Pity.
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Try pressing the DISP button on the back of your camera. This manually turns the screen on and off to save batteries. You would then use the optical viewfinder in its place to save batteries.
That normally fixes the problem of a black screen, but if it didn't, a stuck shutter is another common failure mode for digital cameras. The symptoms of a stuck or "sticky" shutter are very similar to CCD image sensor failure. The camera may take black pictures (for shutter stuck closed), or the pictures may be very bright and overexposed, especially when taken outdoors (for shutter stuck open).
To confirm a stuck shutter, put the camera in any mode other than "Auto", and turn the flash OFF (you don't want to blind yourself for the next step). Next look down the lens and take a picture. You should see a tiny flicker in the center of the lens as the shutter opens and closes. If no movement is seen, then you likely have a stuck shutter. If so, please see this link for further info and a simple fix that may help.
Something we have all been wrestling with over the years, LOL. quality pictures in gloomy weather conditions
? I suggest using the flash as often as you can in those conditions, and get yourself a tripod. When the skies turn grey, there's less light, so the camera keeps the shutter open longer, which means more likelihood of a blurred image due 2 camera movement. Flash use speeds up the shutter, but will use more battery power. Another issue: with 100 ASA film, the flash is only good for about 12 feet. Distance improves with higher ASA film, but quality suffers due to film grain.
First make sure that you accidentally didn't turn off the screen by repeatedly pressing the DISP button to cycle it on and off. If that didn't fix it, and if your camera is less than 1 year old, call 1-800-OK-CANON to arrange free warranty repair.
If your camera is more than a year old, a stuck shutter is another common failure mode for digital cameras. The symptoms of a stuck or "sticky" shutter are very similar to CCD image sensor failure. The camera may take black pictures (for shutter stuck closed), or the pictures may be very bright and overexposed, especially when taken outdoors (for shutter stuck open).
To confirm a stuck shutter, put the camera in any mode other than "Auto", and turn the flash OFF (you don't want to blind yourself for the next step). Next look down the lens and take a picture. You should see a tiny flicker in the center of the lens as the shutter opens and closes. If no movement is seen, then you likely have a stuck shutter. If so, please see the following for further info and a simple fix that may help:
http://camerarepair.blogspot.com/2009/05/simple-fix-for-stuck-shutter.html
Hey SleepyFairy, What it sounds like is that something sticky has gotten into the lens cover mechanism, and the only way to fix that is to have it repaired. If this camera is less that a year old it is most likely still covered under manufacturers warranty, and you should have it looked at by an authorized service technician to get it fixed. Sincerely, Allan Go Ahead. Use Us.
Set camera to B , open back door and release the shutter and keep it open while you inspect focal plain area. Is the shutter fully opened ? If you release again is the shutter opening completely and closing completely ? While the shutter is fully opened on B look through the shutter/ mirror box area is anything obstracting your view ?
Seems like one of the shutter curtains is not opening properly and shutter will need servicing. Please note that it may not be economical to repair : $ 150-200 if the shutter block does not have to be replaced completely.
I was having the same problem.. And since I could not afford to take it to the shop, I tried everything I could think of...
Then I fixed it!!
It seems that the slide door behind the shutter was stuck for some reason... If you remove the lens.. (make sure the camera is in manual mode)... snap a shot so the shutter is up.. then gently slide the panel in the back down....
Once I did that.. the camera was working again.... Hope this easy solution works for you guys....
The Flash is useful up to approximately six feet, after which distance the light is less effective. The Flash is good for close subjects in low light.
The Flash is not good to use when taking pictures in large rooms with low light or night / evening scenes. When the Flash is used, the shutter speed is automatically faster to compensate for the light from the flash. This means less natural light through the lens. This can cause dark images in large rooms or evening scenes. In this case, TURN OFF THE FLASH and allow the shutter speed to automatically slow down to adjust for natural light. Your images will be more bright. Be careful, slower shutter also means more potential for blur from motion by you or your subjects.
The Flash is useful up to approximately six feet, after which distance the light is less effective. The Flash is good for close subjects in low light.
The Flash is not good to use when taking pictures in large rooms with low light or night / evening scenes. When the Flash is used, the shutter speed is automatically faster to compensate for the light from the flash. This means less natural light through the lens. This can cause dark images in large rooms or evening scenes. In this case, TURN OFF THE FLASH and allow the shutter speed to automatically slow down to adjust for natural light. Your images will be more bright. Be careful, slower shutter also means more potential for blur from motion by you or your subjects.
The Flash is useful up to approximately six feet, after which distance the light is less effective. The Flash is good for close subjects in low light.
The Flash is not good to use when taking pictures in large rooms with low light or night / evening scenes. When the Flash is used, the shutter speed is automatically faster to compensate for the light from the flash. This means less natural light through the lens. This can cause dark images in large rooms or evening scenes. In this case, TURN OFF THE FLASH and allow the shutter speed to automatically slow down to adjust for natural light. Your images will be more bright. Be careful, slower shutter also means more potential for blur from motion by you or your subjects.
First, try to get more light, particularly natural light (window); second, try using shutter priority (S mode), setting the shutter speed at not less than 1/50, faster if you are shooting motion/action (check the Properties of the blurred pictures that you've been getting in Camedia software - the shutter speeds are probably too slow because of the low light), and experiment with higher ISO settings (either 200 or Auto, not 400) though there's a trade-off in noise levels.
Same thing basically, camera fell a few feet off table, now camera won't focus... extending the lens fully with optical zoom causes it to shut down when lens reaches full extension. I keep hearing it's as well to buy new due to high repair costs, but it's a discontinued model. A shame, it seems to be one of the better Q&D point & shoot models from Kodak.
It seems like the mechanism that moves the lens has been knocked out of alignment, removing the case doesn't show any easy way to get to the mechanism. Pity.
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