To check thermostats do you just check continuity?

If your Kenmore electric dryer has stopped drying, there could be several reasons why:

1. Check the Power Supply: First, make sure the dryer is plugged in and that the circuit breaker hasn't tripped. If you have an electric dryer, make sure the outlet is functioning properly.
2. Check the Thermal Fuse: A blown thermal fuse can cause the dryer to stop heating. The thermal fuse is usually located on the blower housing or at the dryer's heat source. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the thermal fuse.
3. Check the Heating Element: A defective heating element can also cause the dryer to stop heating. The heating element is usually located behind the dryer drum. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the heating element.
4. Check the High-Limit Thermostat: A faulty high-limit thermostat can cause the dryer to stop heating. The high-limit thermostat is usually located on the heating element housing. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the high-limit thermostat.

If the dryer will not turn off, the problem could be a faulty timer or a stuck relay. You may need to have a technician diagnose and repair the issue.

Check if both legs of your 220 volt outlet are hot. Check the power cord at the dryer-carefully.

To actually check the terminating thermostat ( defrost thermostat) there are a few ways, some better than others. Assuming you've got an ice build the thermostat should be cold enough to use a meter to test by setting it to continuity. First you need to remove the freezer wall and locate the thermostat, and when you do visually look at it to see if has swollen, or if the top is not flus with the sides of it. To actually check it the right way you'll need to splice into the two wires that run to the thermostat and check for continuity. If the thermostat is working properly in cold conditions it should test postive for continuity that way power to the element can be appied. If there is none or if the thermostat is at room temperature and there is continuity, its bad

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Check the thermostat for continuity. Turn the machine around take of the back panel with a Torx 20 screwdriver this will allow you access to the heater bank and thermostat. Remove the wires from the thermostat and check for continuity if you have continuity the thermostat is good and your problem might be with the electronic relay card. Are there any other symptoms? What exactly is happening? You might just have a clogged heat exchanger and or filters.

Both the high limit thermostat #3977767 and the operating thermostat #3387134 are normally closed switches and should have continuity. These thermostats are usually replaced as a set because when one fails its often caused damage to the other. The part # for the kit is 279816 and comes with both and is cheaper than if bought separate

For an electric dryer, the heater has probably failed. A failed thermostat can also cause this symptom.

Unplug the machine! Disconnect the heater and check it for continuity with a multimeter. If it does not have continuity, replace it. If the heater has continuity, check each thermostat for continuity. All thermostats should have continuity at room temperature.

Assuming the machine runs, but does not heat at all:

You probably have a failed heater or thermostat. Most dryers have more than one thermostat.

Unplug the dryer! Check the heater for continuity with a meter. If it has no continuity, replace it. Check all thermostats for continuity at room temperature. If any one has no continuity, replace it.

Heating problems always seem to involve the thermostats. Check the thermostats for continuity. Usually the upper limit thermostat is bad, but replace both thermostats if one is bad. Check the continuity of the heater and the thermal fuse. Disconnect one wire and test between the terminals. You should have continuity, or they are bad.

Check for a partially burnt heating element or a faulty high limit thermostat. The high limit thermostat is a round device mounted on a metal plate and is usually attached to the internal ductwork. Check the heating element for any sign of burning or broken wire. It can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a bad heating element. The high limit thermostat can be checked in the same manner. It should have no continuity. I will attach a photo of a thermal cutoff and high limit thermostat for reference. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Might be the high limit thermostat or the control thermostat. Check your gas valve for continuity.
If you have a fuse in line with the control check it for continuity. Most of the time if the pilot is lit you have a bad valve, I would check that first. The valve is a combination gas valve. That means it has the pressure regulator built in. Check out the connection between the gas valve and thermostat. If no continuity between the 2 outer terminals change the gas valve. If the thermostat is open change it out. The high limit will connect between the left terminal shown and the safety magnet. I know this page shows a floor furnace thermostat but a geep fryer works exactly the same with a different thermostat and high limit.


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