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Posted on Oct 20, 2009
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Snipe I have recently developed a snipe problem w/ my powermatic 6'' jointer. I am sure that it is an adjustment problem but do not know what to adjust or in what direction

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  • Expert 232 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 20, 2009
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Could be the way you are feeding/removing the board. snipe is actually the sound the board makes when its end passes over the cutter. the inboard table should be slightly lower than the rear table. pressure and movement must be maintained when feeding the board the entire length of the joiner table.

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0helpful
1answer

One end of board is thinner than the other end when plained board is done

This is after running it over a jointer? That's not uncommon. Flip the board after every pass to help keep it from happening.

If this is after running it through a thickness planer, are you sure you're not just seeing snipe? If it's not snipe, then the planer's elevation adjustment is somehow slipping or working its way into another position as you plane.

It'd help if we knew which machine you're talking about.

If you're hand-planing, then you'll need to work a bit on technique... practice on cheap softwoods.
1helpful
1answer

Delta tp 305 is sniping wood at both ends , is there a solution to this problem?

With any of these portable planers, the sniping can be a problem that you can minimize. Of course you can use a board longer than you need... but more practically: 1. Take light cuts 2. Make sure your infeed and outfeed tables are at the same height and are parallel to the suface of the machine below the cutter. 3. Provide additional in-feed and out-feed support beyond the little in-feed and out-feed tables to keep your material moving consistently in the same plane from start to finish. you might use support rollers. Take care to get the whole setup adjusted all in one plane. Good luck.
0helpful
1answer

My outfeed table does not run level with infeed table . How do i adjust?

The most important part of the jointer is that the cutting edge is perfectly level with the out feed table, then, bring up the infeed table, with straight edge on rear, make all adj necessary to get these things lined up flat, not level, but flat, straight, even. Then it will cut perfectly flat and even. no snipes,. Hope this helps.
0helpful
1answer

HOw do I adjust the tables so I do not get a snipe?

Hello,
Adjusting a jointer to relieve snipe can be trickey but here are a few procedures that will help.

-The two tables on the jointer are adjustable, the front (infeed) is what you adjust for cut depth.
- The back (outfeed) needs to be the exact hieght as your knives

The outfeed needs to be adjusted first
-unplug jointer
-using a straight edge on the outfeed table adjust it so that when you turn the head (counter clockwise) the knives just touch the staight edge (NOTE** all the knives should touch the straight edge the same, if not your knives are not set correctly) This is your most important adjustment, if the outfeed is to high or to low it will cause inconsistant jointing.
-Now that the outfeed is trued up to the head you can adjust the infeed table, using the straight edge align it so that it is perfectly lined up with the outfeed table (not touching the kinives) Your jointer is now at ZERO

You can now adjust the infeed for depth of cut, Start by lowering the infeed a very small amount (1/16 of a inch to start)

The biggest problem I have seen is that people try to cut to much at one time, it will work alot better if you take several small cuts instead of one deep cut.

Also- getting the knives set perfectly in the head is a key to success, if this is not happening you WILL have jointing problems. ALSO if the knives are not sharp they will pull the material down causing snipe.

I really hope this helps and if you need a visual aid try looking it up on you tube.

I have used my jointer for numerous different projects, Here is a cool one for tapered table legs.
Take a piece of square stock (like 2x2 ) about 3 feet long, make a mark about 2 foot up and wrap a piece of tape around it at the mark.
now make a mark (we will call it a stop mark) on the fence of the jointer by the head.
with a pencil and number the edges on the 2x2 (above the tape so you dont joint them off)

turn on jointer and run side 1 until your tape is at the fence mark, carefully lift 2x2 and do the same to the 2 side.
only joint the #1 & #2 sides, run several more times and you will have a perfect tapered leg.

SHOP DOG
1helpful
1answer

How do I Get rid of snipe?

Your intake side of the jointer is not high enough. You can run a test using tape to see. Hope this helps. Remember to vote if it helps. Thanks. Here is the link to a youtube video that will explain it. Its called Dealing with snipe on a planer / jointer / thicknesser

0helpful
1answer

I need to know how to adjust the blades on my powermatic model 50 jointer. Its an older model, I'm not sure what year. There are three blades and i need to know what position they need to be in compared to...

I usually adjust the knives slightly above the outfeed table. I use an aluminum straight edge & adjust them using a sheet of printer paper on the outfeed table so that they are about the thickness of the paper above the table. I place the paper on the outfeed table put the straightedge on the paper & rotate & adjust each knife so they just slightly hit the straightedge when I rotate the cutterhead by hand.

Needless to say the jointer needs to be unplugged while doing this.
1helpful
1answer

How do you make the outfeed and infeed tables paralell? The infeed table closest to the blade is a little lower than the other end? Any suggestions?

Instruction manual is here.

Exploded diagram is here.

I'm pretty sure you're saying your planer tables are not coplanar.

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/jointer-setup/ is worth watching. Despite his comments about a level, a decent level works fine for making sure your tables are flat and coplanar on smaller units like this.

On more expensive planers there are gibs that can be adjusted to fix this issue. Your part list doesn't list any gibs, so it looks like you will have to loosen the screws holding the infeed or outfeed table in place and shim it. You can use a metal feeler gauge to figure out how much need to shim it.

Also, if you're still in warranty, Delta may be able to replace your unit. If you're going down this route, I'd recommend you take a level and your unit into a service center so you can show them the problem.

Be aware that the replacement "could" be worse than the original. Be sure to check it. I recently waited 6 weeks for a replacement fence for my jointer (mine developed a twist) and the new one had a 3/8" bow in that was ridiculous.

Unfortunately the Shopmaster line wasn't Delta's greatest and there have been a lot of problems with them. It might be worth keeping an eye on craigslist in your area, as decent prices can be had on jointers fairly regularly.

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