This is a very strange arrangement, your switch
BTW, my pleasure ... I am a volunteer poster here - not an employee. I'm at home ... watching Dancing with the Stars - I do this for the 'bragging rights'. I'm not perfect but pretty darn good for a High School shuv-out!
You may be able to find a "Off - On (1) - ON (2) - Off" kind of switch ... I'm racking my little brain from when I worked as a (50 year+old) stock boy at the Ace hardware/Auto supply, row 3 - electrical - to see if I remember seeing that switch. I'm pretty sure there is such a thing.
Your arrangement is very strange. Take your switch to the hardware and spend some time exploring. And forget the big box store for now ... look at your little hardware store first. I think they will most likely be able to find you a replacement or the switch I described above.
Thanks for using Fixya.com and I hope I have helped you with your question.
a
Testimonial: "Good advice. Made me not feel so bad about being puzzled by this situation."
I see Digi-Key is an advertiser here ... you may want to check their catalog. http://rd.clickshift.com/rd%3Ftid%3D5017..." target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >www.digikey.com
Thanks for the kind comments glbird.
a
Here is what you want to do,
Notice on the lamp; cord that one of the conductorsz has a series of ridges on it. This conductor should be connected to the wide blade on the plug in - which connects to the white wire (neutral) in the outlet. If it is the other way around, that is ok too, dont change it. This wire should go to the shell of both light fixtures. It will be a 'common wire'.
The other conductor form the wall (lamp cord) go into the switch.
Coming out of the switch, one of the wires will go to the center contact on one light fixture and the other wire from the switch will go to the other center contact on the other fight fixture.
You may have to create this situation in your lamp. Im still confounded by the arrangement you descrived to me earlier.
Anyway ... just remember, you waht to break the hot wire for both lights and that is how to do it.
I hope this helps you.
Enjoy reading under your freshly wired lamp
and thanks for using fixya.com
If yo have more questions, please post them to this comment.
a
My pleasure.
Think of the blades as follow:
The BIG blade goes to the white wire which eventually goes to your power panel and into the ground (at your power panel ground and at the pole where you get your power from). Think of the wide blade as the shovel. Theoretically, you can touch the whire wire and not be hurt (not as part of the circuit but as in touching the white wire)
Think of the shinny blade as something you want to be careful with - it should connect to the black or HOT wire. You cgopt to be careful with it - it is small and goes in a small hole.
You are correct, you want to break the HOT wire. If there is ever a problem in the body of your lamp, you want the hot wire stopped at the switch.
Look at your plug - look at your wire. Normal lamp cord has a brown, black or white jacket. On one side, the cacket is smooth, the other side usually has a rib on it. Sometimes, lamp cord has a copper and a silver wire. If that is the case, id hook the copper wire to the dark (skinny) blade and the silver wire to the white (BIG) blade. On the socket end, the hot wire should go to the center contact while the neutral should go to the shell.
ACE is a great place ... I loved working at the Hardware store even though the money ws not there for me.
You will figger this out ...
If there is anything else I can help you with, please let me know.
a
3/4 nipple --- I think that is length of the part that has the string or the twist switch ...
You ever think about replacing the light :-))
You looked at Ace Hardware ... is there an old fashioned hardware/auto parts store in neck of the woods? There might be an auto application switch that could work.
How about a pair of "The Clapper"? :-)
I have faith you will discover the part you need ...
Thanks again for the kind words ...
a
Very nice install ... good job ... thanks
That handle might come off. You could replace it with a handle for a 'hurricain' lamp. I saw something like this in a electric light store ... then I was a similar thing at Lowes.
I am impressed with your work ... good job. I was glad I could help.
Thanks again
a
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The interior lamp switch is in the ON position.
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The keyless entry transmitter unlocks the doors (illuminated entry).
When the key is removed from the ignition switch with all of the doors closed, the courtesy lights light for approximately 25 seconds before fading out.
Battery positive voltage (B+) is applied at all times through the IP fuse block CTSY LP/PWR MIR fuse 6A via CKT 640 (ORN) through the body control module (MALL) to the courtesy lights via CKT 1732 (ORN). The MALL provides a ground through CKT 156 (WHT) for the courtesy lights under the following conditions:
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The MALL receives an input from a door being opened.
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The MALL receives an input from the interior lamp being turned ON.
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The MALL receives an input from the doors being unlocked using the keyless entry transmitter.
The courtesy lamps then light.
When the courtesy lights are activated by opening and closing a door, the courtesy lights will remain on for approximately 25 seconds before fading out after all of the doors are closed. If the ignition switch is turned to START or RUN within the 25 seconds, the lights immediately begin to fade out. If a door is left open, the MALL removes battery positive voltage (B+) to the courtesy lights after 10 minutes. When the courtesy lights are activated by the interior lamp switch, the lights remain on as long as the interior lamp switch is in the ON position. When the courtesy lights are activated by unlocking the doors using the keyless entry transmitter, the lights remain on for approximately 40 seconds. If the doors are locked using the keyless entry transmitter within the 40 seconds, the lights immediately begin to fade out.
Body Control Module (MALL) Diagnostic Mode
For a detailed explanation of the MALL module diagnostic mode, refer to Body Control Module Cell 51.
What interior light ? Dome , courtesy lights etc....They don't work with switch, keyless entry , door opening ?
What
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The liftgate lamps
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Courtesy/map lights
The courtesy lamp supply voltage circuit of the body control module (BCM) supplies battery positive voltage to the dome lamp, the liftgate lamps, and the map lamps. When any door is opened, the door jamb switch contacts close providing a door open input to the BCM. The BCM then provides a ground to the interior lamps with the switch in the AUTO position. The interior lamps receive a ground at G401 with the switch in the ON position.
Important: If the liftgate is opened after all the modules go to sleep, the dome light will not come on. The liftgate ajar switch input to the BCM will not wake up the BCM once it has gone to sleep, so the dome light will not come on. Once the BCM gets an input to wake it up, from remote keyless entry (RKE) or a door handle, the dome light will turn on when the liftgate is opened.
If the driver inadvertently leaves any interior lamp ON, the BCM will turn it OFF after a 20 minute time-out.
The courtesy lamps will turn OFF immediately if the ignition switch is turned to the ON position or approximately 20 seconds after all doors are closed.
The courtesy lamps are controlled by the body control module (BCM). Inputs from the dome lamp switch and the door ajar switches are monitored by the BCM. When a door ajar switch is closed, or the dome lamp switch is turned to the ON position, the BCM supplies the B+ for the courtesy lamps.
With out a factory Tech2 scan tool or equivalent an knowing how these systems work ,you best bet is to take your vehicle to the dealer or some other ASE certified repair shop !
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Thank you for you prompt reply. Yes, there are only two wires on the switch. The red one is connected to one wire from from the plug-in. The black one is connected to one side of a double wire that runs up the shaft to the lights. The other side of that wire is connected to the other side of the wire that comes from the plug-in. If there is no suitable replacement switch available, how hard would it be to install a three wire switch that has positions for Off, Light 1, Light 2 and Lights 1&2. If you are unable to help me I will take your advice and go to good hardware store. I may also ask one of the electricians at work.
I am going to try to make one of those three wire switches work but I have a question about how to connect the wires. On the current lamp switch, one wire from the electrical cord goes from the plug-in straight to one of the lights. The other wire goes from the plug-in, through the rotary canopy switch to the other light. How do you wire a switch with three wires? Do both wires from the plug-in connect to the black wire on the rotary canopy switch then the red wire connects to one light and the other colored wire connects to the other light? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for your help. Between you and the guy at the Ace Hardware I think I can eventually get this figured out. I need to figure out a few things about my current lamp wiring configuration before I can set up my new one. Does the wide blade on the plug-in go through the switch or straight to the lights? My guess is that the small blade goes through the switch and the large one straight to the lights. These wires run through the lamp shaft and I am trying to figure out which one runs where without taking everything completely apart. You have been a big help and I really appreciate it.
I was able to get all of the wiring figured out thanks to your help then when I went to put in my new switch I discovered that the switch was too big to fit inside of a 1-1/4" shaft so I will have to find a smaller one someplace. The total length of the new switch I was going to try is 1-1/8" from the bottom of the base to the end of the nipple and the nipple was 3/4". I have been looking at several places online that sell these switches and I have a little question for you. When it says that a switch has a 3/4" nipple, is that measured from the top of the base or the bottom. It may end up being a tight fit so I need to know exactly what I am buying.
Here is a picture of how I mounted my new switch. I will give you the details on another post. I wanted to get the picture to post first.
Thanks for all of your help. I meant to get back to you a lot sooner. The first time I tried to post the picture along with my comments it did not post and all of that typing was lost. As I stated earlier, the canopy switch that I purchased was too big to fit inside of the shaft of the lamp which was only 1-1/4" in diameter and I could not find one any smaller. One night I was in the hardware store and came across some items called plastic conduit hangers. I purchased one big enough fit around the outside of the shaft and hold the new switch in place like it was a box for it. I then found a package of various sizes of grommets and put one in the hole where the old switch was mounted to keep the wires from rubbing on the metal. I ran the wires through the hole and followed your directions for wiring the new switch and everything worked great. It is not the prettiest repair job but my mother is happy to have her lamp back. I could not have done it without your help. The only thing I would still like to find would be a knob to fit on the new switch. I am sure I will find one someplace. Again, thanks for all of your help. glbird
Are you absolutely certain thre are only two wires on your switch??? May I suggest you take your switch to a good hardware store - not the big box variety.
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