Question about Sharp R-1480 Microwave Oven

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Boiling water caused large "Pop" sound/microwave not working now

I was boiling water on the stovetop under the microwave, (w/o using fan)and then started the microwave. A large "pop"/"crack" sound happened and the microwave stopped working. (no heat;it turns on & sounds funny, display works, etc...) Have a Sharp Carousel, about 6 years old. Any suggestions?

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  • 321 Answers

I would guess that the boiling water may not have been the cause ...
If you are lucky ... try this first:
Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off (if it is a built in unit). Wait an hour and then repower.
Odds are that will not clear things up ... but it is easy to try. Probably one of the electronic internals broke.
A number of different internal component problems could cause this heating failure in the microwave. It could be the magnetron, the high voltage transformer, the PC board, the diode, and the capacitor. This type of problem will need to be diagnosed and repaired by a service technician. Microwaves are inherently dangerous to service. This type of repair is not something that you want to try to do yourself. Internal capacitors in the microwave can retain a lethal electrical charge even when the microwave is completely unplugged. A microwave radiation leakage test should be performed on the unit using proper testing equipment following any internal component repair.

Posted on Jan 25, 2018

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

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SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: manual for sharp carousel R-230 AV

Models R420D and R520D also have this common feature found on Sharp microwaves. You can download that manual free at the link below (not my link) and the section on Compu Defrost should help you just fine. http://www.htsarebates.com/files/mic_man_420,520D.pdf#search=%22sharp%20compu%20defrost%20filetype%3Apdf%22 Or you can just do the Google search below and you'll end up with a list of several manuals you can try: "sharp compu defrost filetype:pdf" (without the quotes)

Posted on Sep 21, 2006

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: Where is the light bulb in an old Sharp Carousel Microwave?

Manufacturers used to include access panels in the rear or side so you could easily change the bulb. That exposed the customer to 110V connectors, and that posed a real liability threat, so they stopped using them.

You now must generally remove the outer cover to replace the bulb.

The service manual (available at our site) shows how and shows that the lamp is mounted in the air duct near the magnetron. See http://www.microwavedisplay.com/r510hk_hw_sm.pdf

Part # is RLMPTA086WRZZ and you should be able to get that generically locally but if not, you can get it form Tritronics at http://www.wehaveparts.com

If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

Posted on Nov 22, 2007

iaprogress

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Sharp Carousel Microwave door latch stopped working door won't stay closed

Microwavesvc, that's what I've had happen with my sharp also, I carved a hook out of a piece of plastic and then epoxied it in, and haven't had any more problems with that.

Another problem I've had with the sharp (that just reoccured, I'm trying to figure it out) is that the micro-switches that the door latch push have gone bad. Originally just one went bad and I replaced it, now the micro has the light and fan on, and won't recognize being closed...

Posted on Jun 11, 2008

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: R-4H84 Sharp Carousel II microwave oven stoped working

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

The fuse is normally located on the floor of the chassis behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: sharp carousel microwave doesn't spin

The turntable system consists of the motor, the coupler, the turntable support with rollers, and the tray.

You can see and hear a video of how a turntable motor should sound when you rotate it by hand.

If yours is not set to be off via the control panel, and it won't rotate or it sounds like it's grinding, etc., you may have a bad motor or plastic coupler.

To replace either, you need to unplug power, then remove the bottom cover of the oven. In some brands, you have to cut the motor cover off with snips, then use a screw when reassembling it.

The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics. You can also call them at 866-779-5835

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

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This moisture can accumulate from certain types of cooking (lots of boiling) in the microwave or in extreme cases, from a blocked grease filter or exhaust vent duct.

Spills or large amounts of accumulated moisture should be wiped off. Minor amounts can dry out by themselves easier if you leave the door open after cooking.

Also, when boiling on the stovetop, you should always use the hood vent exhuast fan to keep steam and grease out of the controls and the door area of the microwave. I always recommend using the vent fan with any cooking on the stovetop.

As long as it is not rusting the metal mesh screen or other parts of the door, it can be allowed to dry out over a period of days with the door open.

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I am not sure what you mean by boiling water under it all day. If it was under the unit, it probably shorted it out and it won't work. If you were using it constantly to boil water, you may have overheated it. To be safe, please unplug it and call the manufacturer.

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Okay, first we need to separate the situations. You were boiling water on the stove and had the range hood fan running to **** up the steam. Then you put something in the microwave to heat and you heard a pop and then zip-o.

The water on the stove has nothing to do with the situation, the fan you turn on is not part of the microwave, so it has nothing to do with the microwave.

The pop you heard and then the humming suggests the magnetron failed. You said you found a blow fuse and replaced it and still nothing, right? The magnetron is the most likely culprit...I would think it is safe to say that the magnetron shorted and drew enough current to blow the fuse.

Replace the magnetron and if that doesn't work, let me know here. Good Luck!

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I have a GE JVM240 spacemaker microwave oven. When I turned it on I heard a loud pop, the sound of the microwave seems louder and it does not heat. Everything else works fine. Moisture could of been a...


Actually, you should always use the hood vent exhaust fan when you're cooking on the stovetop, but I don't think that caused this problem, although it's possible.

Instead I would most strongly suspect a shorted high voltage rectifier diode, which is a pretty easy fix.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

d:%5cele%5crepair%5cmicrowave%5cge_hotpoint%5cmini_manual_behind_grille_small.jpgdee77f7.jpg

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's probably okay)


http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Mar 02, 2009 | GE Spacemaker 1.7 Cu. Ft. Over-the-Range...

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I have a GE JVM240 spacemaker microwave oven. When I turned it on I heard a loud pop, the sound of the microwave seems louder and it does not heat. Everything else works fine. Moisture could of been a...


Actually, you should always use the hood vent exhaust fan when you're cooking on the stovetop, but I don't think that caused this problem, although it's possible.

Instead I would most strongly suspect a shorted high voltage rectifier diode, which is a pretty easy fix.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

dee77f7.jpg

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's probably okay)


http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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I always recommend that folks use the vent / hood fan anytime they're cooking with the stove.

Was it on at the time?

If not, moisture can certainly get into the works and cause problems or damage. If it dries out, it's fine but if not, it could cause damage.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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