I was boiling water on the stovetop under the microwave, (w/o using fan)and then started the microwave. A large "pop"/"crack" sound happened and the microwave stopped working. (no heat;it turns on & sounds funny, display works, etc...) Have a Sharp Carousel, about 6 years old. Any suggestions?
I would guess that the boiling water may not have been the cause ...
If you are lucky ... try this first:
Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off (if it is a built in unit). Wait an hour and then repower.
Odds are that will not clear things up ... but it is easy to try. Probably one of the electronic internals broke.
A number of different internal component problems could cause this heating failure in the microwave. It could be the magnetron, the high voltage transformer, the PC board, the diode, and the capacitor. This type of problem will need to be diagnosed and repaired by a service technician. Microwaves are inherently dangerous to service. This type of repair is not something that you want to try to do yourself. Internal capacitors in the microwave can retain a lethal electrical charge even when the microwave is completely unplugged. A microwave radiation leakage test should be performed on the unit using proper testing equipment following any internal component repair.
SOURCE: manual for sharp carousel R-230 AV
Models R420D and R520D also have this common feature found on Sharp microwaves. You can download that manual free at the link below (not my link) and the section on Compu Defrost should help you just fine. http://www.htsarebates.com/files/mic_man_420,520D.pdf#search=%22sharp%20compu%20defrost%20filetype%3Apdf%22 Or you can just do the Google search below and you'll end up with a list of several manuals you can try: "sharp compu defrost filetype:pdf" (without the quotes)
SOURCE: Where is the light bulb in an old Sharp Carousel Microwave?
Manufacturers used to include access panels in the rear or side so you could easily change the bulb. That exposed the customer to 110V connectors, and that posed a real liability threat, so they stopped using them.
You now must generally remove the outer cover to replace the bulb.
The service manual (available at our site) shows how and shows that the lamp is mounted in the air duct near the magnetron. See http://www.microwavedisplay.com/r510hk_hw_sm.pdf
Part # is RLMPTA086WRZZ and you should be able to get that generically locally but if not, you can get it form Tritronics at http://www.wehaveparts.com
If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
SOURCE: Sharp Carousel Microwave door latch stopped working door won't stay closed
Microwavesvc, that's what I've had happen with my sharp also, I carved a hook out of a piece of plastic and then epoxied it in, and haven't had any more problems with that.
Another problem I've had with the sharp (that just reoccured, I'm trying to figure it out) is that the micro-switches that the door latch push have gone bad. Originally just one went bad and I replaced it, now the micro has the light and fan on, and won't recognize being closed...
SOURCE: R-4H84 Sharp Carousel II microwave oven stoped working
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
The fuse is normally located on the floor of the chassis behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: sharp carousel microwave doesn't spin
The turntable system consists of the motor, the coupler, the turntable support with rollers, and the tray.
You can see and hear a video of how a turntable motor should sound when you rotate it by hand.
If
yours is not set to be off via the control panel, and it won't rotate
or it sounds like it's grinding, etc., you may have a bad motor or
plastic coupler.
To
replace either, you need to unplug power, then remove the bottom cover
of the oven. In some brands, you have to cut the motor cover off with snips, then use a
screw when reassembling it.
The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics. You can also call them at 866-779-5835
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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