Door won't stay closed, then opens only partially.

Assuming that you do not have anything interfering with the obstruction sensor located at the bottom/sides of the door opening, you most likely will need to adjust the "force-down" control. This control switch should be located on the power-head of your opener. An arrow should indicate direction to turn to increase the force down. You must be careful not to increase it too much or you will create a crushing danger for pets and children. Turn only a little at a time until a test keeps the door closed. You must then place an obstruction under the door (1 inch tall) to make sure it still reverses when an obstruction is met. Sometime temperature conditions will affect the correct operation of the opener and it will need readjustment.

check the hooks and door release button and repair or replace, when this is broken, the switch is not close the microwave will not START.
SEE the diagram
God bless you

Check the door sensors. Make sure they are pointed at one another and the small light on each one is lit and not flickering. Tweak them a little. If you cannot get both lights to come on you have bad sensors.

Hi,
Has the unit recently been moved or the doors removed at any time? Either the door are not aligned or they are damaged around the hinges some how. I would adjust doors from the top of the unit, assure not product (food) could obstruct the door from closing. Lastly double check closer at the bottom, this is a two piece system and I had seen this come apart recently.
I hope this helps

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

It could be closing too far or the sensitivity could be set too sensitive.

Lube the springs, wd-40 rust may be the whole problem.

If the door hits and the opener continues to move until the rail flexes upward and then reverses - probably the travel adjustment.

Does the door close and stay closed if you hold the wall button down constant until it closes? - this would indicate a safety eye problem.

If the door reverses before it hits the floor or just as it hits the floor it could be the sensitivity or if the safety eyes are mounted to the track they could be flexing enough to move the eyes out of alignment.

Hope this helps.

mikey-moore's advice helped me figure out what to do but it's not exactly what I had to do. Manually open the garage door all the way. Then hit the automatic button you normally would use to open and close your garage door. The bracket slides back and locks into place. Hit the automatic button again and the garage door should automatically close.

You say your door won't open and then you say your door won't close. Anyway you have a door sensor problem. Make sure they are pointed at one another and the small light on each one is lit and not flickering. If you tweak them and the lights don't come on then you have either a wiring problem or a bad logic board.

If the main light flashes 10 times when the door reverses it is a door sensor problem but if the door is hitting the floor and reversing and the main light is not flashing then the door is closing too far and the safety thinks it has hit something. On the side of the motor unit you will find 2 controls. One of these is the 'down limit'. Turn this in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover until the door closes but does not reverse.

Remove the cover and take a look at the limit switch assembly. It pretty much snaps together and it sounds like a part has come loose.

You need a couple of cheap microswithes that the door latches hit when you close the door and a new control for your display problem which sharp has had a problem with