RZ67 with new battery, lens set, 120 film back set but we get all the time a yellow led warning and the shutter does not work

It is probably the battery. A lot of these cameras have electronically controlled shutters, that automatically fire at the fastest speed possible if there isn't a battery to slow it down.

The shutter speed is controlled by the width of the slit exposing the film. So, the lens will swing at the same speed when set at 1/500 or 1/60 (White setting), therefore it appears on the outside that the shutter speed has not changed. The swing has only 2 speeds, White fast, Yellow slow, selected by the switch on the left beside the rewind knob.

To confirm that the width of the slit is changing (actual shutter speed), open the back and fire the shutter on Yellow 2 (half second), you will see the slit is fully open as the lens swings. Next try Yellow 8, you will see the slit is less than half open, so it exposes the film for a shorter time by having a narrower slit , not faster swing.

This is the same principle in many cameras with curtain shutter.

I hope this answers your question.

The camera is almost totally battery dependent for operation. There is just one mechanical shutter speed (the 125X setting). On any other setting the camera needs battery power to fire the shutter. To check the batteries set the camera to M or Auto and halfway press the shutter whilst looking through the viewfinder. With good batteries one of the LED lamps will illuminate between 2000 and 4s continuously. With weak batteries, the LED's will flicker on and off. With dead batteries no lights at all will appear.

Blank film means that the film has not been exposed. If you're sure that the film is advancing correctly then it means that the shutter is probably not operating. To test it, open the camera back and hold the camera up to a bright light with the lens cap removed. Set the lens aperture to it's widest setting (i.e. lowest number) and fire the shutter. You should see at least some light briefly appearing. If not, set the camera to 125X and try again. If no light then you have a faulty shutter assembly. A faulty shutter really needs professional attention, but due to age and a lack of spares you'll find it difficult to find a camera technician who is willing to help unless you pay up front (don't expect much of a refund, if any, if the camera proves to be unrepairable). In any case, the repairs will exceed the camera's value, but given that the same may be said of almost all 35mm SLR's now it's a question of how much do you personally value your camera?

If you do get a professional repair, then take the chance to get the foam light seals and mirror buffer replaced at the same time if it hasn't already been done. The original material will be well into decomposing by now and modern replacement materials don't suffer the same fate, so it's a modest one-off investment. An ME super in good condition is scarce and collectable even though it's not worth much, and far more importantly it's a great camera to use. Shoot on transparencies and scan the results and you can achieve results which are comparable to the best digital SLR's. Unlike a digital SLR, your camera should last much longer if it can be repaired.

Needs film in the filmback works fine. With no film will only work in M mode (multiple exposure)

Solutions here....
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum51/16253-mamiya-rb67-lens-stuck.html

This is likely because the shutter has not been cocked all the way. Return the lens to the fully locked position and advance the film with the lever all the way down to reset the shutter. If it still doesn't work, move the lever to M for multiple exposure, make sure the back is aligned and trip the shutter release. Then fully **** the shutter again by pressing the advance lever down fully and again until it is reset. Then try to remove the lens again.

tcwat67,

the battery you mention is used for memory back up. when you change the main batteries this battery keeps the memory from needing reset. if the film is completely clear the film was not exposed to light. now if the film was transported and the meter and LED was working then the shutter was not opening, an easy check----- just take the lens off and fire the shutter a few times. the shutter may not fire if the film door is opened.
if the shutter is not opening it must be replaced, if you can find a camera repair shop that fixes vintage camera's any parts replaced will be good used.

WHAT YOU ARE SEEING IS BASICALLY AN ERROR WARNING THAT THE SHUTTER SPEED IS NOT RIGHT FOR THE LIGHT CONDITION AND THE LIGHTNING BOLT USUALLY MEANS THE FLASH IS NEEDED. IF THIS IS A FILM CAMERA, IT IS PROBABLY WANTING YOU TO PUT IN THE CORRECT EXPOSURE SETTINGS FOR THE CONDITIONS. DOES THIS HAPPEN WITH ALL CONDITIONS? HAVE YOU TRIED OTHER SETTINGS ON THE CAMERA? LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE HELP.

ARCLIGHT1217

It sounds like there is a problem with the frame counter in the film back itself. Try operating the camera with the back removed and on multi-exp to check the shutter functions.

I recently had a similar problem and found the answer to be the shutter release on the lens itself.

When the using the shutter release, (mirror up feature), on the lens the shutter release, screw in portion, in the lens will actually will pop out to accomidate for the cable release.

There will be a small red circle around the base of the area where the cable release would screw into.

Try pushing that back in. Worked for me.

Good luck,

James