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Not sure what you mean by this but often times the screen in the petcock (fuel shut off valve in the tank) will plug and cause the tractor to shut down, run rough, or have no power. Hope this helps.
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I had a case tractor with a 4 cylinder diesel, dual heads, in-line cylinders. It had a similar symptom. Turned out to be a cracked head. Only one of the two. Water pump had previously failed, this led to overheating and cracking of the head.
That would indicate an injector or injector pump problem, see a local shop, there are special testing that needs to be done to pin down the exact reason.
You need to ensure that here are no vacuum leaks in the line from the tank to the lift pump, the lift pump which looks very similar to a car petrol pump must be in good working order ie able to pump the minimum pressure and volume at cranking speed and idle speed. If the lift pump is not working properly it will cause cavitation at the injector pump that will cause low pressure bubbles on the intake of the injector pump. If you have a good lift pump and there are no vacuum leaks between the tank and the lift pump then it may be down to bleeding the air out of the injector lines first at the pump, and then at the end of the injector lines (be very careful the diesel is at 170 to 175 times atmospheric pressure which is about 2500 pounds per square inch (which can penetrate skin deeply and even bone). Most of the Ford tractors use a rotary injection pump. Having only one cylinder not pressurizing is extremely unusual, try swapping the injectors between cylinders to see if it is a faulty injector, making sure to use new or at least anneal the old copper sealing washers and tension the injectors evenly with a tension wrench to correct torque. If the misfire then follows the injector it means your need the injectors servicing. New needles & nozzles for injectors is a lot cheaper than a new or rebuilt rotary injection pump. Please advise if it’s an inline pump. (which I doubt they were rare because they cost more).
take the injector to a specialist diesel repair shop as all you will need is the tip for the injector and not the body
Regardless of the make of the engine , injectors were made by few manufacturers so the range of injector tips fits just about all makes
First you'll want to put the engine on TDC with # 1 piston. then remove the injector line from the pump. then remove injector pump flange bolts. If the pump does'nt come off still then look for a bolt coming in from the front side of the injector pump drive gear. I could probably give you a little better description if I new exactly what model Ford tractor you have. I was a mechanic at a Ford/ New Holland dealership in 2011. I hope this info helps, good luck.
Sean if you idled it back on a mechanically governed engine you have shut the fuel off to the injectors... turn it back up slowly and possibly crack the bleeders on the injectors to make sure you haven't sucked any air,good luck!
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