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The chuck could be threaded like an average power drill.
Respectable drill presses use a hollow quill shaft that is likely to be machined into a taper that is likely to be number 1, 2 or 3 Morse taper.
Morse taper drill bits are used a lot - the shank is tapered and will grip and drive when inserted into the quill with just a small force. When the bit is to be removed the quill is turned by hand until a slot in the quill lines up with a slot in the housing and a wedge-shaped steel tool is slid in and tapped breaking the taper fit.
Most such drill presses are supplied with a chuck for light duty drilling already mounted. The chuck is often a Jacobs type mounting by means of a Jacobs taper onto a Morse taper adaptor.
The adaptor is tapered at both ends - at the lower end the taper is steep and the chuck must be pressed on with some force. The upper end will have the same gentle taper of the Morse taper drill bits and is removed in the same way.
Using the chuck drilling is limited to the capacity of the chuck, typically 1/2" or 5/8" unless blacksmith's drill bits are used that have stepped shanks.
Morse taper drill bits will allow heavy duty drilling far in excess of the chuck capacity.
Hopefully your problem is caused by the chuck rather than a bent quill.
The screw in the bottom of the chuck is reverse threaded (left tight, right loose). It is also lock-tited so will be hard to remove. Make sure you have a screw driver well seated in the screw and turn it backwards (clockwise) to break it free. Once that is out, lock the short end of an allen wrench (at least 3/8" to 1/2") in the chuck. You'll have to lay the drill on a bench with the long end of the allen wrench hanging over the edge so you can hit it with a hammer hard enough to break the chuch free from the anvil. The chuck is threaded left loose, right tight so hit the wrench to turn the chuck counter clockwise. When you replace the new chuck use a small drop of lock-tite on the anvil threads and screw if it doesn't have some on it already.
Open up the chuck jaws as far as they will go. At the bottom you will see a Phillips headed screw. This is a left handed screw and will require you to do it up to in fact undo it. After that undo the chuck as it taking of a nut. Place the chuck key in position and hit hard with a hammer in the undo direction and the chuck should spin off . It is already broken so don't worry about breaking it further. Remember to re[lace the screw in the new chuck or the chuck will unscrew for you in the reverse direction.
I'm assuming you have a DCD970 as DeWalt doesn't have a DC970 and the DW970 is an impact driver. The chuck on your drill is a new design that doesn't have a lock screw inside the chuck, they are put on very tight with lock-tite to hold them on. They are made to be taken off with a special chuck holder and vice jig that only service centers have. The allen wrench method used on older chucks won't work as the chuck will just loosen when you hit the allen wrench. I have on occasion removed one by doing the following: Turn the chuck fully open then secure it in a vice with the drill straight up. Holding the drill body and using the handle for leverage, turn the drill counterclockwise, as you are looking down on it, with steady, strong pressure. If the chuck breaks free it will spin off easily. If you are at all afraid you may break the handle you may have to take or send it to a service center to have it removed.
If it's locked up that tight the only thing you can do is turn the key as hard as you can until it either breaks free and works or just plain breaks. If it breaks free, spray a bunch of WD40 or like lubricant up into it, cycle the chuck to full open and full closed a few times to let it soak in then blow it out. If it's working freely throughout the travel and not sticking it should be OK. If it broke while trying to open, sticks while cycling it or just plain won't open, replace it. You need part number 1310049 from Delta to replace it (shop the internet for one). The chuck is just pressed on to the tapered spindle so you have to extend the spindle all the way down and hit the top of chuck, sometimes hard depending on how long it's been on there.
By stuck do you mean that you can not release the chuck? if so then you can use 2 channel lock pliers to grip the chuck and the base to break it free. i have done the same on a keyed chuck and a keyless chuck .
You have a wrench that fits the chuck and a stop button that locks the shaft, loosen that chuck up and pull out the old bit, if it is frozen or rusted, try poking it against something solid, make it go in to break it loose, then pull out the bit. If that doesn't work, soak it in blaster or some other penetrating oil, then try the same again. Hope this helps.
Inside of chuck you have a screw, remove screw then tighten an big allen wrench into chuck, short side in, then hold drill and hit allen wrench with a hammer quickly, should break chuck free.
That depends take the chuck off and see if you can see a part of a screw in the spindle. If so try and turning it with a small pick to remove it. It sounds like all you possibly broke was the chuck retaining screw. You can go to a repair center and pick one up relatively cheap or go to Dewaltservicenet.com and type in your model number to look at a breakdown for this part. Let me know if anything different, I take it also that the tool runs and sounds OK otherwise?
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