I need to know how to replace the leather gasket for a manually operated pitcher style water pump for a water well

The tools required to remove and replace a water pump can vary depending on the specific make and model of the vehicle. However, here's a general list of tools that are commonly used for this task:
Tools Required:
1. Socket set and ratchet
2. Wrench set
3. Pliers (usually needle-nose pliers)
4. Screwdrivers (flat-head and Phillips-head)
5. Gasket scraper or razor blade
6. Drain pan
7. Coolant and container for collecting coolant
8. New water pump and gasket
9. Torque wrench (for tightening bolts to manufacturer's specifications)
Procedure to Replace the Water Pump:
1. **Prepare the Vehicle:**
- Ensure the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
- Allow the engine to cool completely before starting work.
2. **Drain the Coolant:**
- Place a drain pan under the radiator.
- Open the radiator drain valve or remove the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant into the pan. Remember to dispose of the old coolant properly.
3. **Access the Water Pump:**
- Locate the water pump. It is typically connected to the engine block with bolts and has hoses connected to it.
- Remove any components obstructing access to the water pump, such as belts, pulleys, or covers.
4. **Remove the Water Pump:**
- Disconnect the hoses and any electrical connectors attached to the water pump.
- Loosen and remove the bolts securing the water pump to the engine block. Keep track of bolt locations as some may vary in size or length.
- Gently pry the water pump away from the engine block. Be cautious not to damage the mating surfaces.
5. **Clean Surfaces and Install New Pump:**
- Clean the mounting surface on the engine block thoroughly using a gasket scraper or razor blade to remove any remnants of the old gasket.
- Install a new gasket onto the new water pump according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- Position the new water pump in place and hand-tighten the bolts. Ensure the pump aligns properly before final tightening.
6. **Reassembly:**
- Reconnect hoses, electrical connectors, belts, pulleys, and any other components removed earlier.
- Refill the cooling system with the appropriate coolant mixture as per the manufacturer's recommendations.
7. **Test Run:**
- Start the engine and check for leaks around the water pump area.
- Monitor the temperature gauge to ensure the engine is operating at the correct temperature.
8. **Final Checks:**
- After the engine cools down, recheck the coolant level and top up if necessary.
- Double-check all connections and bolts for tightness.
It's crucial to consult the vehicle's service manual or repair guide specific to your car's make and model for detailed instructions and torque specifications as they can vary significantly between vehicles. If you're not confident or experienced in performing such repairs, it might be best to seek assistance from a qualified mechanic.

First, I am not a Chrysler mechanic, but have replaced several water pumps. Unless you know you need a timing chain, you likely do not need to replace that. Water pump is pretty easy to replace. Pull belts off, un-bolt the water pump, and pull it off. Scrape the old gasket off. Paint new water pump mating surface with gasket sealiing stuff, apply gasket, paint back of gasket with more sealing stuff, then bolt it up. Replace belts, and done.

Hello, W/D here, at your service.
There are a couple of things that can cause a low cycling pressure as you described.
First, check the tank. Look for a schrader (bicycle type) valve on the top of the tank. Check the pressure. Normally, there is a sticker denoting the proper pressure of the bladder in the tank with no water in the tank. Mine calls for 29 psig. If yours is low, air it back up to the proper pressure and re-test the flow.
Next, if the first check didn't do the trick, is to determine if there is a leak in the well. Operate the pump up to its normal kick-out pressure and turn it off. Close the discharge valve, and watch the pressure gauge. If the pressure falls, the cause of the cycling is probably the seal in the well. You didn't indicate if your's is a shallow or deep well, but repairs are similar. These pumps are also used in pool service for circulation, but this doesn't sound like your use. If yours is in a well type water service, and the pressure falls as described, you will need to pull the inner piping and replace the leathers, as water is escaping back down the well. It has been my experience that it is better to replace the foot valve, jet and leathers all at the same time, rather than to replace the leathers alone. Find a reputable well supply company, and take your parts with you. My local company will put everything together for me, if I buy the parts, of course. If your pump is in drinking water service, disinfect before re-assemble according to local regulations. Your local well supply can advise, and it is usually a simple and inexpensive task. Whilst purchasing parts, be sure to purchase the gaskets that you will need for re-assembly. The pump gasket and the well head gaskets are most common. I keep spares of most of these parts, as my pump seems to always break on Sunday morning, or late Saturday night!
Anyway, try these things, and see if it doesn't get you back up and running. Best of luck.
Best regards, --W/D--

Make sure the blade assembly is put together in the correct order. The blade needs to go through the gasket so that the order is pitcher glass, gasket, and metal blade base. Then the final plastic cap threaded onto the pitcher. If the gasket is not between the pitcher and the metal blade assembly, you will have leaks.
Also, check the gasket to be sure it's not cracked and that it doesn't have residue on it.
I hope this helps. If it does, please come back and rate my suggestion!

I just got the exact IcedTea maker that you have (model TM4) from Mr. Coffee. I think that we were both trying to make it work the same way, which is wrong. The plastic pitcher goes on the bottom, while the part that plugs in with the button&indicator light goes on the top. Put water in the pitcher to the indicated water line and then pour it into the part with the metal basket. I didn't have any directional sheet either so I didn't know that the water goes in there. I thought the water would be gently warmed while in the plastic pitcher. After pouring water into the heating part, fill the pitcher with ice to indicated level (about 2 ice cube trays). Place the heating part with the button&indicator light on top of the plastic pitcher and cover it with the white lid. Push the button and it will heat the water and dispense the brewed tea into the pitcher thru a valve. The indicator light will go off when the brewing process is done. The entire manual can be downloaded from going to: http://www.mrcoffee.com/manuals/MrCoffee/tm4.pdf I hope this helps you if you still have the item. I bought mine to give my daughter while in college. I really like that it is so space saving compared to many that I am finding in stores today. Good luck and happy brewing!!! Susan

1) Pour the water from the 16 litre Pitcher into the 9 litre Pitcher. (leaves 7 litres in Pitcher 16)
2) Pour the water from the 9 litre Pitcher into the 7 litre Pitcher. (leaves 2 litres in Pitcher 9)
3) Pour the water from the 7 litre Pitcher into the 16 litre Pitcher (leaves 0 litres in Pitcher 7)
4) Pour the water from the 9 litre Pitcher into the 7 litre Pitcher (leaves 0 litres in Pitcher 9)
5) Pour the water from the 16 litre Pitcher into the 9 litre Pitcher (leaves 5 litres in Pitcher 16)
6) Pour the water from the 9 litre Pitcher into the 7 litre Pitcher (leaves 4 litres in Pitcher 9)
7) Pour the water from the 7 litre Pitcher into the 16 litre Pitcher (leaves 0 litres in Pitcher 7)
8) Pour the water from the 9 litre Pitcher into the 7 litre Pitcher (leaves 0 litres in Pitcher 9)
9) Pour the water from the 16 litre Pitcher into the 9 litre Pitcher (leaves 3 litres in Pitcher 16)
10) Pour the water from the 9 litre Pitcher into the 7 litre Pitcher (leaves 6 litres in Pitcher 9)
11) Pour the water from the 7 litre Pitcher into the 16 litre Pitcher (leaves 0 litres in Pitcher 7)
12) Pour the water from the 9 litre Pitcher into the 7 litre Pitcher (leaves 0 litres in Pitcher 9)
13) Pour the water from the 16 litre Pitcher into the 9 litre Pitcher (leaves 1 litre in Pitcher 16)
14) Pour the water from the 9 litre Pitcher into the 7 litre Pitcher (leaves 8 litres in Pitcher 9)
15) Pour the water from the 7 litre Pitcher into the 16 litre Pitcher (Pitcher 16 also has 8 litres)

YOU NOW HAVE 8 LITRES IN THE 16 & 9 LITRE PITCHERS.IN 15 MOVES.

I have have the same problem with my 1999 Oldsmobile Silhouette. I solved the problem by adding more coolant. It has a slow leak some where that I have not been able to find. When the coolant gets low the temp. gauge heats up very quickly but then goes down quickly when you rev the engine. Adding coolant to the reservoir has fixed the problem until it gets low again.

Fill the pitcher with water to the water level park on the pitcher and pour into water intake in the top of the tea brewer.
Fill pitcher to ice level mark (if there isn't one, put in about 2 - 3 trays).
Make sure that the brew basket lever is closed by pushing in then down.
Put 6 - 10 regular tea bags in brew basket and place brew basket on top of pitcher.
Slide the pitcher with the brew basket under the machine where the water comes out and make sure it is snug. Turn machine on.
When the machine is done brewing, the unit will shut off automatically.
Carefully slide the pitcher away from the machine and release the lever. This will let the tea pour into the pitcher.
That's it! Just don't put the pitcher, lid or brew basket in the dishwasher - that's how I ruined my first one.