Question about A.O. Smith SQ1102 Pool Pump Motor

1 Answer

Title:Thermal protector for A O Smith motor

The motor is direct coupled to a model HMSF-1FL STA-RITE jet pump (120 ft deep well) for my sprinkler system , Motor is 1 1/2 hp 3450 rpm 230 VAC single phase, capacitor start Nameplate reads "thermally protected 3R147ABO" (might be 3RT47ABO).. I have the STA-RITE manual but it only details installation of piping and hookup to electrical supply. The motor quit operating two days ago.
I replaced the capacitor, motor still does not start.
There is no resistance reading across the two leads from the pressure switch to the motor, indicating an open circuit
is the thermal protector a one shot fuse or resettable device? If the latter, automatic or manual reset?
There are two bare copper strips in the rear which appear to be some sort of thermal device, there is a contact between them which is closed.Also some spring loaded parts below, I have no idea what their purpose is.
Would appreciate any diagram, information, also where to obtain replacement part, if necessary
Thanks in advance

Posted by on

  • ananair Oct 01, 2009

    Protek 480

    Thank ;you for your information. It would be helpful to have a schematic if available, I've done some checks and tried to follow the wiring as best possible (I am 86 , have poor eyesight and its all in a tight space.) So far

    1) the starting contact , motor at rest, is ok. checked resistance across the strips, zero ohms

    2) the thermal protector has three spade lugs,

    a) blu wire, is connected to one output from the pressure switch, power supplyL1

    b) yellow wire is connected to the start capacitor

    c) white/bl stripe wire is eonnected to one "pin" socket of the voltage selector. seems to have had no current because the contact and sleeve on wire look ok

    checked resistances, a -b, b-c, a-c all showed very low (zero) resistance

    I don't know if this is normal or not

    3) I did find a defect in the voltage selector switch which is dial type, set for 230V operation

    Viewed from the bottom there are three connections

    x) a molded socket with a small flat copper contact on the bottom, against which is pushed the sleeve over a( purple )connecting wire. The end of the sleeve as well as the small copper strip appear damaged (burnt), the circuit was open here

    y) a similar socket to; x) with the white/bl stripe wire (see c) above.) both copper contact and wire appear in good condition

    z) a spade lug with thicker (purple )wire

    I checked continuity ...... if x) were in good condition , x - z are connected electrically, zero ohm resistance

    y -x and y - z are open,

    None of these three have any direct connection with the input L2 which has a white wire I have still not followed

    . This doesn't seem an ideal way to make electrical contact, it's simllar to that used in car distributor caps, but the voltage is much higher there.


    ------------ (wire with sleeve )------> ______!(small copper contact in molded plastic)

    I definitely would need a replacement for the dial type voltage selector switch, as well as two sleeves for the connecting wires

    Doyou have any information on how/where I could obtain these? Some distributor of AO Smith motors? Motor model is 1 1/2 hp, C48M2EC100A1

    In addition to saving on the cost of replacing the entire pump (about 1200 bucks when installed three years ago I consider it a challenge. ( I retired after some 40 years of plant engineering)

    Thanks again for your input




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The two copper strips in the back are the 'start winding contacts'. They must be closed when the motor is not running. As the motor starts, there is a centrifugal operated collar that will move forward toward the start winding contact and open the start winding in the motor (within 1-2 seconds). Make sure they are closed and 'zero ohms' resistance through them. The second part of the question about the thermal protection circuit: The thermal switch is 'automatic reset' and will re-close after opening from an over temperature in motor winding. If you read no resistance through wires going into motor, the thermal overload is probably failed open. Even if the start winding contact is open, you would still have a circuit through the 'run winding'. Check the connection on the thermal switch, (it's a round black plastic module with solder connections to wires coming out). Give it a good tap with a screwdriver, it may close for you, other wise it can be replaced (motor repair shop)

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

  • Craig Butler
    Craig Butler Oct 01, 2009

    I would like you to call me so I can explain this on the phone> 970-247-5502



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