Water drips into the "tub" when unit is shut off. It stops when I shut off the hot water supply line. When I try to wash with just the cold water line open and on the cold water setting, it give me a HF error I guess because it's not getting enough water through the cold line. What's the fix?

Farrah, this is commonly a supply problem. Here is how it goes: Hoses get hooked up backwards, no one notices, ...dad gets large hot water bill and shuts off the hot water (which is actually connected to the cold water inlet on the machine), then the machine needs cold water and stops until enough water is in the tub (measured by pressure, NOT time). the machine will wait forever...

clogged inlet valves can cause the same issue, but this is where you can start.

Probably the small filter screen in the cold water supply line is plugged up with sediment. The screen will either be directly on where the hose connects to the supply line, or may be on the rear of the washing machine where the cold water supply line connects to the washer, usually a simple screw-on just like a garden hose.

Most washers have screen filters where the hot and cold water lines connect. The condition of your water supply would indicate how often you clean these screens. If you notice a decrease in water flow into the tub you should clean the screens.

Shut off the hot and cold water supply lines.
Drain the pressure from the lines by turning the timer dial through the fill cycle in both hot and cold water modes.
Remove the hot and cold water lines from the back of the washer.
Look for a screen inside the hose coupling or the washer inlet.
Remove screen and clean using a wire brush. If screen is damaged get a replacement at a hardware, or home improvement store.

Turn the taps off when not using it or turn off one tap and see if it stops to work out if it is the cold or hot valve and replace the valve.

Hi there,

Well It is probably Faulty Water Inlet Valve

Faulty Water Inlet Valve
The water inlet valve is the device that meters water from the supply lines into your wash tub. On domestic washers, there are two lines, one hot the other cold. These valves are susceptible to mineral build-up and sediment deposits. There are two common failure modes:
Water drips or slowly enters the machine when the timer is in the off position.
When water continues to enter the washing machine when the machine is in the off position, this is an indication that the water inlet valve is not completely shutting off. The solution to this problem is to replace the water inlet valve

Failure Mode One: Valve will not open.
If you can verify that the solenoid on the valve body is receiving the requisite voltage and the valve will not open, then it is faulty. Since the solenoids operate independently, it is likely that one side of the valve will work and the other will not. This can produce strand results such as a very hot wash when warm is selected (due to no cold water). Or the reverse in that the wash water is cold when warm is selected. If mineral or hard water deposits are a problem, you may witness a substantial increase in the time required for the tub to fill. This is caused be a decrease in the flow ware of the valve.

Failure Mode Two: Valve opens but will not close.
This is verified by a valve that allows water to flow into the tub even though no power is being supplied to the solenoid. This one is usually quickly diagnosed when the machine begins to overflow and the power plug for the washer is disconnected from the wall. However, this will not stop the water from flowing into the machine. The water must be shut off at the wall. As with the previous failure mode, the variant of this failure mode is that it may take the valve a while to completely bridge the flow of water after the power has been removed from the solenoid.

How to Diagnose?
There are a couple of ways to diagnose a faulty valve. However, there is a simple test that one can perform that will usually let you know if the water inlet valve is faulty.
Scenario:
When set to cold wash and rinse, the unit will not fill. When set to warm wash and cold rinse the washer will fill with hot water only and will fail to rinse. This is a common scenario where the cold water side of the valve does not appear to be contributing to the fill, but the hot water side does. This symptom could be easily reversed where cold water is being supplied, but never hot water.

So, how can the problem be determined? It is as simple as switching the wire harness plugs on the hot and cold side. In the example above where the cold water is never being supplied, the symptoms would be the opposite when the wiring harnesses were switched. So the machine would produce only produce cold when warm or hot is selected. No water should be present when you select cold. This verifies that the timer, wiring and switches are all in working order. Assuming this tests checks out, you simply need to replace the water inlet valve.

Faulty Water Level (Pressure) Switch
The water level (pressure) switch detects the hight of the water in the wash tub by the pressure it creates. Much like your ears feel greater pressure when you dive into the deep end of the swimming pool, this switch senses the increase in pressure from water added to the tub. The size of the load you select determines how much pressure is required before the switch tells the water inlet valve to close.

If voltage is still being supplied to the water inlet valves and the tub is full, then the water level switch is likely faulty

Faulty Water Level Switch Supply Tube
The tube that connects the water level (pressure) switch to the outer wash tub must have pressure integrity for the washer to be able to determine the correct water level. There are four possible problems that can prevent this tube from performing its duties.
The tube can become clogged with lint or debris. This can prevent water from entering the tube and therefore not apply pressure to the switch.
The tube can become cracked. Much like a straw in a soft drink, if the supply tube has a crack in it, it can not send pressure to the switch.
The tube has become kinked. If the tube becomes kinked, it can not send pressure to the switch.
The tube has become disconnected from either the tub or the switch. If either of these occurs it can not send pressure to the switch.
To prevent leaks, it is wise to replace a water level switch supply tube that has become brittle. Failure of this tube during operation of the washer could result in a sustained water leak. Post comments if you need further help or information........

Good Luck!!

There is a water fill valve that allows water in, mixes cold and hot water or shuts it off. Its location is where the hot and cold water hoses connect to the washer.
Get the model number off the machine and go to the web site below and you can see the valve and also the cost of the valve should you choose to fix it.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/
Good luck, let me know.
Regards,

If your machine is a FAV6800AWW or FAV9800AWW the (upside down u and f) may be a “NF” for no fill error. The washer has tried to fill the machine with water and has sensed a water fill issue. The control board has shut the wash cycle down with an “NF” error to the display because of excess time to complete the water fill portion of the wash cycle.
Will the machine complete the cycle with Hot water only or Cold water only? I would do a Quick Wash cycle just to test with an empty wash basket.
Regardless of the above test and assuming you have good water pressure for both Hot and Cold supplies to the washer I would do the following. Close the water source valves to the washer and remove the Hot and Cold hose connections at the back of the machine and check for clogged inlet screens. If the water inlet screens are free of restrictions I would go into Service Mode and turn on the Hot and Cold water valves on one at a time and make sure the tub will fill with about 2 inches of water in about 3 minutes in service mode. Check both Hot and Cold inlet valves individually see page 16 of the SM Board Output Test, enter service mode and do the function test for both Hot and Cold Water Valve’s. If the inlet screens are clean and you have water fill restrictions in service mode we may need to look at replacing the water inlet valve assembly. You can turn on the drain pump in service mode to empty the tub or just start a wash cycle and the machine will empty the tub.
The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.

while the unit is filling in the warm cycle. reach behind and shut off the hot water tap.I bet the water flow stops filling, if so, you would need to change the inlet valve on the machine. You see, in warm, if the cold is not filling, you still hear the hot filling and the unit will advance. The rinse cycles are mostly "cold" only. if the valve is not opening it will not allow it to advance from the rinse section on the board.

Good luck!

Hi,

All washing machines have a solenoid valve for turning on and shutting off the water coming in, one for the hot water and one for cold. It sounds like one of them has a slow leak.

Try shutting off the cold water supply to the machine for a day and see if the tub fills with water. Next try shutting off the hot water supply and leaving the cold supply on. This will tell you which valve is leaking.

This solenoid valve is something you can buy from an appliance parts company. In some cases, someone handy may even be able to disassemble it and replace a washer that is leaking.

Until it is repaired, you can get by with shutting off the water supply when you are not using the machine or shutting off the supply that is leaking. For example, if it's the hot water supply valve that is leaking, just shut off the hot and do only cold water washing.

-Vince

it sounds is if you have a possible crack in the water supply area. if the hoses are good, tight and dry, inspect the housing base they screw into.