Ups only puts out 80 volts when power disconnects

do not run any electronics there or blow it up
a charger, like that is too aggressive,
what told you 16vdc name it, best answer read DMM meter.
the sticker on the side clearly sated 13.6vdc
so the regulator inside is bad, if DMM shows 16v
that is for sure ,
run it with no load on plus lug,. who knows what is in that RV/?

spec
Voltage:

• Input: 105 - 130 VAC
• Output (no load): 13.6 VDC
• Output (full load): > 12.6 VDC

Try plugging it in if the 12-volt stuff starts working then you know the charger converter is working and your battery disconnect is not hooking up to the battery you need to test power on both sides of the switches or see if you have any power at the 12-volt fuses with a test light maybe the disconnect switch ...the manual one... broke inside and there could also be another electrical battery disconnect switch from the inside of the coach either way most of them are wired so if you are plugged into household current the 12-volt should work off the converter even without a battery unless the main power for the fuse panel is fed from the batteries theirselves also you can test a 12-volt ground Circuit by applying your test light to a clean part of the chassis and putting the positive on the coach batteries and see if you have a light if you don't you have a bad ground

To answer your question would be impossible as asked without more information, however:

Just use OHM's law, volts times amps equals watts conversely watts divided by the voltage will give you amps. But realize there will only be power when the solar panels are lit and that will change with the light intensity. If it is connected to a battery then use the battery rating but that is in amp hours. You do not have to use the full amps available, it will not hurt anything. I use the 80% rule, I only get 80% of what I put into the battery. The actual solor output depends on location. Lets assume you get 6 hours of usable sunshine a day, that yields 540 watt hours of energy best case then calculate the safety factor of 80% you end up with 432 watt hours available.

regulator maybe need to adjust or broken

I replaced two capacitors, (1) 10 volt, 1000uf and 10 volt 3300uf..They both sit on the power board that can be removed from the unit..You will have to unsolder the bad capacitors and put in the replacements..This wasn't hard to do...

Hey SCOTT ..
Get a multimeter (to check voltage) Verify you have 24 volts coming to the front plug. Now - VERIFY that you are getting 24 volts to the switch. ..All OK..- Now to check the power switch. Disconnect the two wires on the power switch and CAREFULLY connect them by hand.. now SAFELY see if the prop will turn. If the switch is bad, bypassing it will make the prop spin!
..If the prop still does not work,, keep following the voltage.. For more help, trust these guys!:
http://www.jonestrollingmotor.com/

Check the ground wire on the electrical outlet. You can get a simple outlet tester for $10 or so. Here's one at Ace Hardware for $12.

When we bought our current house, the electrician failed to connect the ground wire to two of the outlets in the basement, and the induced current was about 80VAC on the ground.


If this helps, be sure to hit the "Thumbs up" for me!

Please check the owners manual.and see if the 6250W is surge power or steady state...it is not unusual..for this to occur...possibly the generator needs to be adjusted ( sped up slightly )..do not let the 120 volts output exceed 126 volts...

Good Luck with that...but if engine runs and there is no output voltage, that generally means that the stator needs to serviced or replaced (likely as pricey as a new genny).

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_aad3edb7dfa380b9

A 12 volt battery is actually 13.2 volts fully charged. If you are reading 16 volts, you are probably getting extranious voltage from the system somewhere, especially if the vehicle is running when you check the voltage. The alternator will put out about 15-18 volts to charge the battery normally, and yours may put out 28-32 volts to charge them in series, but the batteries, when disconnected, should never read more than about 13.2 volts each. Typically, it will read about 12 1/2 volts when disconnected. COMPLETELY DISCONNECT BOTH OF THE BATTERIES. If you still read 16 volts when it is disconnected, you must have a bad meter because the battery can't produce that much voltage, no matter what. (Six 2.2 volt cells connected in series inside the case.) Put the meter on a known good battery on another car that is not running and see if you get the same reading. It sounds like the other battery is almost dead, regardless, and it sounds like your series/parallel switch may be malfunctioning. (That is the switch that puts the battery in series to run the 24 volt starter, then puts the batteries in parallel to run the remainder of the vehicle on 12 volts. This is all assuming that you have a diesel vehicle with a 24 volt starter and that is why you have two batteries.