Air not circulating through vents

Mistake #1, calling the plumber/installer to diagnose a heating problem; unless of course he was dually licensed as a plumber and a HVACR technician. (Heating, Ventilation, Air-Conditioner, Refrigeration)
I would contact the plumber/installer in case of parts / unit warranty or installation issues since you purchased it and had it installed by him.
Your unit has a combustion motor with a "squirrel cage" type fan attached to it.
The purpose of the combustion motor-fan unit is threefold; it acts to purge (exhaust) out any gas build-up before ignition occurs; it pulls outside air (oxygen) in through the intake pipe which is needed for flame ignition and to maintain it; while at the same time - vents spent/toxic gases out the flue pipe.
There is also one convection fan motor controlling two convection "squirrel cage" type fans. It's purpose is to circulate the heated air created by the heat exchanger, into the room.
On initial start-up, it is the combustion motor/fan unit that kicks in, so if you are hearing the noise at this start up phase, this would be the source of your problem.
The convection fan motor doesn't kick in until there is a heat rise sensed by the low-limit switch; meaning, If the blower came on at the same time as the burner, it would pump cold air through the house at first. The limit switch includes a sensor in the heat exchanger to determine when the air is warm enough to circulate. Once the air reaches a preset temperature, the limit switch turns on the blower.
Therefore if you hear the squealing sound when the convection blower turns on, that would be the source of the problem.
Why would the noise occur, most likely the sealed bearings in the motors are going bad; or perhaps the fan blades are loose and wobbly; or something got inside the fan housing and is chaffing.
A major cause of early, premature combustion fan motor wear is improper installation of the flue pipe; condensation flow back to the motor will damage it
Another reason, manufacturer defect in the motor; it happens.

Your air circulation knob or switch has 2 settings ,recirculate and fresh air,turn to fresh air,put on cold and turn the fan on to your speed you want and air will circulate from the outside to the vents,put it on mid level.

Its possible that the contactor that closes to start the outdoor unit is not pulling in and passing power. You are hearing the coil humming since it is getting control power. Also first check that breaker for outdoor unit is not tripped

Hi, check your furnace fan. The air conditioner unit can be running but the air circulation is usually done with the fan on the furnace. If you have a fan switch on the thermostat, check to see if it is in the auto position. If it has the settings on/auto/off, you can switch it to the on position and see if you get any air movement then. If not, you could have a broken belt.

need to go to furnace and watch it...if your hearing a hum the enducer draft motor may have failed...it should start first if there is no fault codes...reset unit by unplugging furnace or in some cases turning power switch off...turn thermostat on heat and watch unit ..the small enducer draft motor should start first the a ignitor glows and the should light...goodman units have a control board with a light on control board when it fails should flash a code and on the door or inside on lable should give you what that code is...hope this helps good luck

hi,
this problem might be as a result of so many factor will be thoroughly explain to you.

you need to check the vacuum line for leak and lose ones.
if their is a leak one, i advice you replace it with a new one and fix the the loose ones.

Another one is the fan problem, this could be a coolant level problem. To isolate the problem, open the door to the attic or basement, where the HVAC unit is and see if the fan noise starts or stops when you turn the temp up or down radically - by about 10 degrees. If you hear the fan kick in, it is likely to be a coolant leak (easily fixable, for a callout charge + 3-4 liters of coolant).
If you do not hear the fan turn on and off, it is likely a fan replacement (again, easily fixable, but may cost a bit more).

you can also check the gas emergency shutoff switch and make sure it's on.it's big and RED, people are always turning it off by mistake. It causes the exact symptoms you describe.

Programmable thermostats are notoriously unreliable, if yours has a fan only setting it could be the stat. Temporary replacement with a cheap manual stat could test for this and the stat is a good thing to have on hand when your programmable fails.

also, small overflow pan and a floater switch on the inside part of the unit. The pan is for condensation (I think) and when it's full, the floater switch shuts off the blower. For whatever reason, some blower shuts off even when the pan is bone dry. But if you trip the switch (lift it and drop it again), the blower will come back on.

thanks for using fixya.

you probably have a bad circulation fan in the freezer compartment. its circulates the air from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment which cools the refrigerator portion of the unit. if you don't hear it running , the fan blades are either stuck on ice or the motor is burned out and you'll have to replace it .

Most units have the cooling coils in the freezer section, then some vents and a fan circulates cold air into the refrigerator section.

If the vents are blocked by food items or ice, then the fridge will be too warm. Also, if the air circulation fan has failed, then cold air from the freezer will not get to the refrigerator.

On a self-defrosting refrigerator, this can be a sign that the defrost timer, defrost heater, or related part has failed. If the cooling coils are packed with ice, then airflow to the refrigerator does not occur.

Typically there is a electromechanical timer that you can see if you take off the lower front panel...this timer switch can be set so the defrost cycle happens when you want (like late at night).

You can also manually turn the switch to start the defrost cycle. Normally you hear the sound of water running and the scorch-hiss sound of an electric heater element touching water/ice when the defrost is taking place. The refrigerator compressor and cooling fan will typically be off during defrost as well.

the air distribution switch controls the air distribution and the fan, distribution switch in the 0 (straight down position) will be off. Car movement forces air into teh body, but with teh fan off there will be no air when the car stops. Does the fan run when the distribution switch is in any other position? it should respond to the speed settings of the fan switch.

There is a vacuum bottle accumulator that assists the distribution switch, sometimes this gets disconnected and the switch settings don't work.

Do you hear any noises if you turn the distribution knob while the car is running? suction noises, or flaps opening?

If not, then you likely have a vacuum problem (check for a white bottle in left front wheel housing, except convertible -> under the spare wheel, tank should have one or two vacuum lines connected to it (one for convertible). A disconnected or leaky line is the most likely cause.

Possible other causes are faulty air distribution switch; burned out fan motor; inoperative vacuum solenoid motors controlling air distribution flaps.

But check the vacuum accumulator first, if under the spare wheel, the lines are easily dislodged.

Is there ice build up in the freezer? Ours does this we have to remove the bottom & above draw & bang the back plate until the ice built up behind it breaks off & falls down onto a tea towel & then you hear the fan start whirring again, it sounds brutal so wrap your hand in a spare tea towel, but bash away till the ice comes out & fan whir's again, as this fan circulates the cold air into maintaining fridge temperature ?? That's the only way ours then chills fridge again, so much for frost free fridge freezers eh! ??