Hello. You need to check to see if the drain pump is getting 120 volts when its supposed to be on. If there IS 120 volts at the motor but not its not running, then the motor is bad. If there is NOT 120 volts present, the main board is bad. I know that the main board is pricey--can run 300+. If you do replace the main board, MAKE SURE YOU RE-CALIBRATE THE BOARD! You put it into diagnostic mode, turn the dial until only the rinse light is lit, and then press start. (thats if its one of the models with the row of lights along the bottom right) the re-cal takes about 4 minutes. I hope I helped you!
SOURCE: Kenmore 70 series washer
your lid switch is bad.you can take a pen and push it up and down to hear if it clicks.you may want to take it off and see if it has split.very easy to do.if you need help i can walk you thru it.
SOURCE: took apart kenmore 90 series washer to replace
See if this diagram will help you out. Best wishes.
Whirlpool / Kenmore/Roper direct drive Parts Breakdown
SOURCE: Kenmore 600 series washer fills but doesn't agitate or drain
The most common cause of the problem you are experiencing is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.
If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman. However, if you would like to purchase a Repair Manual, repairclinic.com has one that you can order on line for about $20. The part number is 1170635. I hope this information is helpful.
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