I REPLACED IDLER PULLY ON SAMSUNG DRYER #DV40J3000EWA2 AND IT WONT START NO POWER IS THERE A RESET

Also ck here...

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dryer/1-160-2241537-/New/Samsung-Dryer-Won-T-Start-DV40J3000EWA2

They have a 800# to talk to tech. before throwing parts at it.

Best to you.

What number belt and model dryer?

Does it have spark at the spark plug's ?

Check if you are getting spark .

Is located usually right next to the motor or rather in front and under. And the rollers are on the edges of the drum

You have to take the back off of the dryer and see the motor pully and the idler pully. slip the belt around the drum, around the mototr pully and usind a flat blade putty knife, work the belt over the idler pully so that it puts tension on the belt. you may have to loosen the idler pully housing bolts, but try it first with working it over the idler as that was set for optimum tension.

ther are alot of things that wont let these dryers start. the start switch the timer. the door switch. but maybe you havent tried the motor switch. this is built with a GE design. if the belt isnt hooked up the idler pulley will not activate the switch. if you get inside the dryer. the motor sits to the left. the idler pully sits right next to it. if you look at the base of the dryer where the idler makes a 90degree turn there is a little swich that will prevent the dryer from starting if not made. just pull the idler tight see if switch clicks. other than that all the other parts you can check for continuity to see if good.

If all others check ok, there are other things it could be. First the motor could be faulty. The timer could be faulty. these two sometimes don't have a die hard way of testing them, they just have to be replaced. The other things you can check are the idler pully switch (if equipped) and the centrfugal switch. Your idler pully switch would obviuosly be located by the idler pully and it is either open or closed. The centrifugal switch will either be in the 'head' of the unit, or behind the front panel by the motor. take the switch out and continuity test terminals 1 & 2, 5 & 6, and 5 & BK or 3 with the button pushed both in and out. the results should be; OUT 1 & 2: continuity, 5 & 6 continuity, 5 & BK (3) resistance. IN 1 & 2 resistace, 5 & 6 resistance, 5 & BK (3) continuity. the switch is faulty if you don't get the above results. Other than these, it's probably somthing stupid like a bad pigtail or bridge. Let me know how things go.

i would check the wiring to the door,light switch, 3 wires, if i remember its GREY/WHITE/Brown. also if that was wired incoirrectly you may have blown a fuse check you outlet for power

Ok, when you removed the front cover to gain access to the idler pully, did you make sure that the drum didnt slip off one of the two roller wheels in the bottom rear of the dryer. If you get one of those roller wheels jammed and not in the track right, they will jam up. Look down at the bottom, grab the rollers, and pull them forward to be sure they are in the groove of the drum. Also, are you sure you relooped the belt correctly back around the idler pully? The best way to loop the belt is to place the idler pully in the correct position, then drop the belt down in front of it, loop the belt under the idler pully, push it back to tension everything, then take the loop and go over the motor pully (should be pretty tight). See if one of those solutions will help. Also be sure that you are properly getting the drum in the right position over the front seal (front should go on pretty easily, if not, reach your hand in the door, and lift up on the drum to center). Thanks and good luck!!!!