Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
Possible drain pump clogged or bad or check under agitator possible cogs bad and not spinning out or belt
Posted on Jan 18, 2020
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Just in case there is a pull string with a loop, all plastic under the latch, need to pull the toe panel off and reach up inside the right, unplugged of course until you feel the switch. a pull latch is below the switch incase this happens and hats off to all star/ a serial error or a faulty switch is most of what causes this to start.
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
The best I could find by scouring the internet was that it was a communication problem between the central control unit and the electronic control box. I was getting F1 codes that would stop the wash, then diagnostics showed F68 and F41 codes.
Sears wanted to charge $65 just to come out and diagnose it themselves, and these appliance sites wanted to charge their own fees to offer solutions. So I took a chance and ordered a new electronic control box ($146.00 + S&H) and installed it myself.
There are three long screws behind the control unit "hood", in the back-top of the washer, facing straight up and down. After unscrewing, I lifted up the hood up and forward, and there was a black box - the electronic control. First, you should check all the wires and make sure the connections are ok. If that still doesn't fix it, unplug all the wires, and take the electronic control out by unscrewing one 1/4" bolt. Put the new one in and re-wire everything (it shows what wires go where on the electronic control box - named by colors). No more error codes!
This washer is only a year and a half old as well, I guess it will pobably be my last Kenmore/Whirlp
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
Welcome to fixya.com
I'm Huuum and happy to assist you,
Try this first and if it fails to remedy the problem then call service as you wanted!
Huuum At your service!
With an error code.
This can reset the system.
First unplug the washer and wait a 5 minutes then restart it.
If you can't reach the plug, use the breaker to cut the power for 5 minutes.
It's like rebooting your computer when its acting strange!
Usually it corrects some error problems if they are not serious.
Or they are sometimes just a glitch.
let me know how it works out.
How old is the appliance?
Let me know how you progress!
Bless You, Huuum
Please remember to leave a rating when you are finished!
Posted on Sep 23, 2008
E5E IS FOR Communication problem. THERE IS 100 %WIRE SHORTING SOMEWHERE.PLEASE CHECK OUT.
ALSO OTHER ERRORS Error code - Fault condition
E11 Fill time too long.
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell.
E14 Reed switch.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough.
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E24 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E31 Better models. Pressure sensor not communicating with control board.
E35 Better models. Pressure sensor indicates water overfill.
E41 Control board thinks the door switch is open.
E42 Door remains locked after cycle is completed.
E43 Control board problem.
E44 Control board problem.
E45 Control board problem.
E46 Control board problem.
E47 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.
E48 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is closed.
E52 Bad signal from tacho generator.
E55 Motor overheating.
E56 High motor current.
E57 High current on inverter.
E58 High current on motor phase.
E59 No tacho signal for 3 seconds.
E5A High temperature on heat sink.
E5B High temperature on heat sink.
E5C High temperature on heat sink.
E5D Communication problem.
E5E Communication problem.
E5F Communication problem.
E67 Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.
E75 Better models only. Water temperature sensor circuit.
E76 Better model only. NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits.
E95 Communication error.
EB1 Incoming power frequency out of limits.
EB2 Incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.
EB3 Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.
EF1 Clogged drain pump.
EF2 To much soap.
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
This has happened to me twice. Both times I found the drain pump seized up with
1st time) The right rim from a pair of reading glasses
2nd time) A plastic toothpick
Both times the object was in the discharge port of the pump. You can see this by lifting the check valve with the pump removed. Removing the pump is simple. Unplug the washer. You have to remove the drain line from where its attached to the rear of the machine (one screw) to remove the rear access panel which slides into upper and lower slots. You will see the pump with an inlet and discharge line attached. The lines have simple squeeze clamps. When you remove the lines, you will drain the wash basin so have towels and a squeegie handy. Remove both lines and wait until the basin drains. When it stops draining remove the pumps electrical connector by squeezing the release catch on it while pulling it. The connector can only go on one way. Remove the 3 hold-down bolts on the pump baseplate. Remove the pump and lift open the discharge check valve and you'll find something there I guarantee it. Remove with needle nose pliers and re-assemble in reverse order.
This is actually a good design because the computer protects the pump by sensing a higher than normal current draw when foreign debris gets jammed in it. It will trigger the ND (No Drain) code and sometimes lock the door. Always check this first before you call the expensive repair man. If its not a jammed pump it will most likely be the control panel/processor. Good luck and always clean out pockets before loading the washer to prevent this,
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
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