Looking for support manual for a Crossfire CT2120 Power Amplifier or the fuse rating for it. Not the battery cable line fuse but the one that actually goes into the amp itself.

• fuse on the Marshall MG100DFX amplifier is located on the back panel of the amplifier, near the power cord.

To access the fuse, you will need to follow these steps:

1. Unplug the amplifier from the power source.
2. Locate the fuse holder on the back panel, near the power cord.
3. Use a flathead screwdriver or other similar tool to gently pry open the fuse holder.
4. Carefully remove the fuse from the holder by pulling it straight out.
5. Inspect the fuse to see if it is blown or damaged. If the filament inside the fuse is broken or the fuse is discolored, it may be blown.
6. If the fuse is blown, replace it with a fuse of the same rating. The Marshall MG100DFX amplifier uses a 2A, 250V slow-blow fuse.
7. Insert the new fuse into the holder and press it down until it clicks into place.
8. Close the fuse holder by gently pressing it back into place.

Once you have replaced the fuse, plug the amplifier back into the power source and turn it on to see if it is functioning properly. If the amplifier still does not work, you may need to have it serviced by a qualified technician.

The fuse in a Marshall MG100DFX amplifier is located on the rear panel of the amplifier, near the power cord.
To access the fuse, you will need to unplug the amplifier from the power source, and then locate the fuse holder, which is a small, cylindrical component with a cap that screws off. The fuse holder should be labeled with the appropriate fuse rating for your amplifier.
Once you have located the fuse holder, you can unscrew the cap and remove the old fuse. You can then replace it with a new fuse of the same rating, and screw the cap back on securely.
It's important to note that if your amplifier blows a fuse, it may be an indication of a more serious issue, such as a short circuit or a problem with the power supply. If you replace the fuse and the amplifier continues to blow fuses, it may be necessary to have it serviced by a professional technician.

First, you need to know how far the battery is from the amplifier. In DC power systems, size IS important. The further the distance, the more power will be lost in a cable of the same size.

I use #6 wire for both the Positive and Negative terminals for powering a 100A continuous draw over about a 15 foot run. The wire does get a bit warm, so it is probably a bit small for the service I am using it in, which isn't critical. You may need to use #4 wire, but I doubt it. Audio amplifiers have a low continuous power draw, compared to my application, and although I have seen some fused at over 100A, the chances are that this is on ly in case the amplifier shorts internally. I doubt if the amplifer fused at this level has ever drawn more than 50% of this rating.

#6 wire can be purchased from a welding supply or automotive store. A typical price is about $1.29 per foot. Get crimp on connectors for the cable, don't try to actually attach the stranded wire to ANYTHING. You'll just have problems. Also, ask the store if they can actually crimp the connectors to the cable for you, although you would need to have the exact measurements for the cable. Remenmber, any excess wire length is a loss of of power X2, as you have 2 wires to contend with. DON'T count on the vehicle chassis ground to supply a good negative ground. Run both the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE wires striaht to the battery. It is also important to put a fuse (100 or 150A) at the battery POSTIVE terminal to prevent the possibility of an electrical fire if the positive lead gets cut and shorts to the chassis.

Unfortunately some vehicles use the same fuse for ignition and non- critical electrical devices such as the cigarette lighter, interior lighting trunk opener solenoid etc... It could also be that the power supply wire (red) for the radio is double tapped to a fuse that is dedicated to any number of components and if it is interrupted (blown) the vehicle won't start or even crank. Another possibility is the vehicles computer detected a short or high amp draw and disabled the ignition to avoid fire or further electrical system damage.

The radio/player power line should be properly fuse protected for the highest amperage that the radio/player may draw when it is at maximum wattage, meaning CRANKED UP! It must be connected to the positive cable coming from the battery, safely away from the battery using a properly rated power terminal or power bar that is covered and sealed. It must be securely mounted, grounded and in an area that is clear of anything under the hood . This requires cutting the positive cable, putting connectors on each side of the cut cable and connecting them along with the player and power amplifier power line(s) to the new power terminal.

DO NOT CONNECT THE PLAYER LINE DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY TERMINAL! The power line wiring for the player at max. volume MUST be of the correct amp rated gauge. You may also need to get a higher amp battery and a higher gauge battery cable to handle the power draw. It is also CRITICAL that every entertainment system component is SECURELY grounded with the right gauge ground wire to metal that is part of the vehicles frame. Failure to do this on a high amp system will toast your vehicles entire electrical system, (very costly mistake) also use dielectric grease on all electrical connections to maintain the integrity of all connections. I may have given you too much info, Good luck!

hope this helps.

caution

About Power supply wires (MRP-M1000 only)

• 21mm2 is the minimum power and ground cable size

that should be used to connect this amplifier. The

length of these cables should not exceed 1m to assure

safe operation.

• If the length of the power and ground cables exceed

1m, or if you connect more than one amplifier, a distribution

block should be used with 33mm2 or 53mm2

power and ground cables depending on the length

necessary. Ensure that you install a correctly-rated

in-line fuse on the power cable near the battery positive

post.

RMS Continuous Power (at 14.4 V, 20 - 200Hz)

• Per channel into 4 ohms (?1% THD+N)

MRP-M1000 ......................................... 600 W x 1

MRP-M500 ........................................... 300 W x 1

• Per channel into 2 ohms (?1% THD+N)

MRP-M1000 ....................................... 1000 W x 1

MRP-M500 ........................................... 500 W x 1

Total MAX Power

MRP-M1000 ............................................. 1900 W

MRP-M500 ............................................... 1100 W

S/N Ratio

• IHF A Weighted, Reference: rated power into

4 ohms .................................................... 100 dBA

Input Impedance

• RCA IN .................................................. 20k ohms

• SP IN .................................................... 40k ohms

Frequency Response (200Hz/ -3dB) ....... 20 - 200 Hz

Crossover Frequency .......... 50 - 200 Hz (-24dB/oct.)

Input Sensitivity (RCA IN) ............................ 0.2 - 4 V

Dimensions

• Width (Heat Sink/Footprint)

MRP-M1000

......... 320 mm (12 - 19/32")/380 mm (14 - 61/64")

MRP-M500

............... 210 mm (8 - 17/64")/270 mm (10 - 5/8")

• Height ..................................... 60 mm (2 - 23/64")

• Depth .................................... 242 mm (9 - 17/32")

Weight

MRP-M1000 ................................................ 4.2 kg
MRP-M500 .................................................. 2.7 k

Walmart, K Mart, Auto shops, car stereo shops would be a great place to start to search for fuses. Make sure you take out the old one from the amp, and I would also take out the fuse from the battery compartment as well. Do not buy bigger rated fuses, make sure they match the ones from your amp!

Then you must have a short somewhere , either your main power cable has a pinch or short somewhere , it is not correctly installed , your blue or amp turn on wire has a short, the vehicles battery has problems or a charging problem from the cars alternator. Try all of these.buy a cheap test light at an Autozone or Pepboys put the grounding clip to a 12+ Volts source and put the test light tip to the red power cable that powers up the amp, if the test light bulb turns on then you have a short somewhere and you would have to trace the cable from battery connection to the amp connection for any accidental grounding or pinch wire.

Good luck.

Good luck.

Don't get confused, it's very simple. +12v----direct supply from battery.
REM---also 12+ supplied from igntion switch. (when the key is turned on, this supply should have 12+ to on the amplifier.
GND--12- minus (negative)
Try it you will be able to set this up. REM can also be used with a single switch which can break the 12+ when amplifer is not in use, or else this will take all ur power battery. You can place a fuse on 12+. Thanks

the amp fuse should be inline under the hood by the positive battery terminal.

Most likely you need to check the Fuse(s) and check all connections including any RCA's and Speaker Wire. Do that and get back to me.


Thank you for using Fix Ya!
Good Luck!

Don't forget to rate the overall satisfaction of this response or solution.