Be aware the fridge works with deadly voltages. If you have not enough technical knowledge, please don't do this yourself.
With a multi meter you can measure if the voltage you apply is entering the fridge. There is not much in a fridge. You find a on / of switch, a thermostat en mostly an override switch too short a thermostat. So if you measure a voltage coming is, follow the wiring and check what the thermostat does. if it won't switch you have the cause. If it does switch, follow the wiring, and if the aggregate gets a voltage and does not run, you have a defective aggregate. I can't think of more.
Good Luck.
SOURCE: Compressor runs all the time
The miniature relay that supply to your compressor stucked, it never open even if the power is off.
SOURCE: Fridge running but not cooling
Sounds like you're low on gas...assuming that the condenser coils are clean.
SOURCE: GE Fridge, Compressor not getting power from mother board
I asked that because in most cases, when it is a problem in a motherboard, it is likely a power surge or lightening. I can also tell you that when it comes to mother boards and component level, likelihood, it isn't transistors or anything unless it smells or looks burned. Most shops would just replace the motherboard and ship it as repaired becaue the cost of the IC isn't worth the possibility of something in another IC on the same board knocking iit out again. Short of plug and play, you have no real way of proving this board good/bad. You might try EBAY with your model number to see if you get lucky. I just got rid of an electronic stove because the control board went bad. New board was $150 with a possibility of it going out in 6 months. As I am not made of money, I now have a gas stove. I you could, please rate this as a fixya as I am just being honest and saving you time and aggrivation. Good luck
SOURCE: compressor runs constantly, fridge cools, but not as cold as new
If unit is running constantly, and not nearly as cold as it used to be, most likely a freon leak. Possibly a partially frozen over evap too. If evap is mostly clear except for about 5% of it, most probably a freon leak. Changing controls will probably not fix anything. Need to look into this a little deeper.
Good Luck and hope this gets it done for you.
please see the causes with common sense, before to proceed to exchange some error parts. God bless you
Water Level Control / Pressure Switch
his is the most common reason a washer will agitate but not spin. To
check this on most , with no water you should have continuity on pins
7&15. With the tub full 7&16 should have continuity. This video
walks you thru checking another type of switch.
Lid Switch
This can be the problem for the washer not spinning . Most whirlpool
styles this will effect both agitate and spin but some models will still
agitate but not spin.This is easy to check. You will need to remove the
switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same.
When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is
opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace the Lid Switch.
Timer
To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or
disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the
motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace the Timer, if it does the timer is not the problem.
Motor
To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer
to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this
remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech
sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts
by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no
continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for
voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run
replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere.
Belt
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check
for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or
broke.
Motor Coupler
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but
inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from
the motor to thetransmission. The following video will walk you through
the replacement of the Motor Coupler.
Transmission
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor
and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise theproblem
is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and
depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a
belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.
Hello erintu81 - SY CF typically indicates that the refrigerator has detected a communication failure after power up. The wiring between the main control board and user interface board will need to be accurately diagnosis. Depending on the results either or will need replacing. At this point, I strongly recommend connecting a professional to move forward accurately and to properly assist with the repair(s).
409 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×