My power legs won't come down - Power Computers & Internet

Remove all the low voltage control wires from the thermostat, on the terminal board there is ,
R or Red = 24 volt "hot leg"
W or White = Heat circuit.
Y or Yellow = Cool circuit
G or Green = Fan circuit.
C or Common = 24 volt "neutral leg"

The R and C terminals are the 24 volt power supply, the R being the hot leg of power, C is the side of power that every 24 volt circuit terminates upon to complete the circuit.
Just as a car battery has a Negative post that all 12 volt circuits terminate upon in a car or anything electrical , they all require 2 legs of power, some voltages are only 1 hot leg 230 volts is 2 hot legs but 115 volts and 24 volts which a thermostat controls uses 1 hot leg being the R terminal.
The thermostat has switches internally that connect the hot leg of the 24 volt power to the desired circuit, jump red to white and heat comes on, jump red to green and fan runs, jump red to yellow and the AC unit outside runs. test this out and if it operates then the thermostat is bad assuming it is wired correctly.

loosen the allen head screw for that legs snap lock

Bypass the Power On switch. This will tell you if the problem is the Power On switch, or the Power Supply.
Has nothing directly to do with the Power On switch, or it's wires.

A jumper wire is used on the 24-pin ATX main power cable's connector.
Jumps from the green Soft Power On wire to ANY Black wire,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The preferred jumper wire is a paper clip.
The paper clip is straightened out, then bent into a U-shape.
The top of the U is wrapped a few times with black plastic electrical tape.
This tape area is for your fingers and thumb to hold onto.

Turning the U-shape upside down the 'Legs' are what is used.
One leg goes down into a socket hole with the Green wire.
The other leg goes down into a socket hole with ANY black wire.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

The BACK of the 24-pin ATX main power cable's connector, is where the wires go into it.
The leg of the U-shaped paper clip, goes down into the socket hole with the Green wire, RIGHT NEXT TO THE WIRE.

Right next to the green insulation of the wire.
The 'leg' has to go pretty far down in the socket hole.
It has to go far down in the socket hole, and TOUCH the metal terminal at the end of the wire.

The other leg of the U-shaped jumper wire has to go down into a socket hole, with ANY Black wire in it. It also has to touch the metal terminal at the end of the Black wire, down in that socket hole.

[All wires going into the 24-pin ATX main power cable's connector, end in a metal terminal,

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002081202_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US

The Back of the metal terminal is the left side. The tangs on the left side, have not been crimped down on a wire yet. (Insulation)
The jumper wire touches this side.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The Front of the metal terminal is the right side. The opening of the metal terminals, and Front side, can be seen in the middle photo of the Playtool link,


Power Supply plugged into power; 24-pin ATX main power cable plugged into the motherboard, as shown in the photo to the far right in the Playtool link above.

The contact period of the U-shaped jumper wire is Brief.
No more than 2 seconds. The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch.

IF, the Power Supply comes on you have a bad Power On switch.
IF, the Power Supply does NOT come on you have a bad Power Supply.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?InvtId=D845GVSR-BO-R I would like you to 'jumpstart' it, and then post back in a Comment. Jump the Soft Power On of the 20-pin ATX main power cable. Power supply plugged into power, 20-pin ATX main power cable plugged into motherboard. Straighten out a paperclip, then bend it into a U-shape. Put black plastic electrical tape around the top of the U. Turn the U upside down. You are going to use the 'legs'. The legs go down in the back of the main power cable's connector. (Where the wires go in) One leg goes down into a socket hole with the Green wire, RIGHT NEXT TO the wire, and MAKE SURE it touches the metal terminal at the bottom. The other leg of the U-shaped jumper wire goes down into ANY socket hole with a Black wire. Contact made is brief. Does the Power Supply turn on? As stated, post back in a Comment. http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

There is a thermal fuse on top of element housing.

How old are the batteries?
Try running them on the mains adaptor, if they work okay then it's possible the batteries are on their last legs.
Good luck.

Hi,

Please explain more about your problem in order me to help you.

You will need to check the power gettin to the motor. Sounds like one leg of the power is down and only 110v are getting to the motor. Remove the wires from the motor and check each leg against ground. Hope this helps and good luck.

Often the window motor will fail to have the ability to allow the window to come up after it lets it go down. Just in case test the switch. There is a power in line, ground and then power out for up and one for down. With the power on, put a test light on each leg of the switch. If you do not have a wire diagram, don't worry. The red will be power and black is usually ground, but if you put you light on power it will stay on. Then move it to the next leg. Put the switch in one direction. Test all three of the other legs. If the light goes on, not that leg, Put the switch in the other position, test the other two legs. If the light goes on, the switch is good and your motor is bad.

If you get no light on any leg, check the ground of the test light, and if you are sure the ground on the light is good, you have a bad motor.

Hope this helps.

I dont knowthe year ,that should be stamped on the id plate. As for tilt and trim----- in the lowest position the leg will only move slowly out and up that is when it is in the trim mode, after that it goes into the tilt mode and the leg travels considerably faster, this works going up and down,putting the leg down, it will travel faster until the last foot or so then it goes into the trim mode automaticaly and travels slower but with more power---you cant split them.It needs the extra power to be able to"trim"" the boat whilst it has the water pressure against it at ,say 25 knots. To test what i am saying ,puthe leg down as far as it will go ,stand on the anti cavitation plate and push the button to raise the leg .You will see it will only traveh ashort way out and up be fore stopping because it doesnt have the extra power to lift you as it did in the first foot and a half.thatis the system and you cant change it if that is unclear take it to a dealer ,he may explain it better---------"youdoit"