Try to reload the software. If that does not work, you probably have a hardware problem. As for the cost of repair in NOt an option, you need to purchase a new printer. The ink cartridges will not work on another printer but you may need to trade them in and see if you can get credit. Staples takes old cartridges and provides credit.
SOURCE: What does F4 on microwave display mean?
This Kenmore is made by LG for Whirlpool. Confused yet? :D
F4 means you have an open humidity sensor.
There
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating
components.
At
our Web site here, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
To find helpful exploded
view diagrams and get part numbers, you can just enter your full
model number at the Sears
parts site.
A full Sears/Kenmore
model number has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits, such as
###.########
But
Sears parts can usually be obtained for far less here
by entering either the part number.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: can you tell me what code F4 means? model
Code F4 means you need to repair the line to or replace the oven temperature sensor. The line typically runs from the display to the back of the oven, you'll have to trace it yourself. The oven sensor should be mounted to the back of the oven lining (Obviously on the inside) by two screws. Disconnect the power from the unit and unmount the sensor to check it, you should have around 1080 ohms of resistance but first you'll have to get that annoying plastic housing of wires through the mount hole and disconnect it so you don't lose it inside the oven. If you don't see screws from the inside of your oven than you'll have to remove the back panel to access them, but this may be a good thing as you don't have to worry about fiddling the plastic connector piece into the oven. You're measuring the resistance from one lead to the other inside that plastic housing, again at around 1080 ohms in a 70 degree environment. If you're way off, or 5 - 6 ohms off, you'll need to replace the sensor. If the error occurs while cooking you can also run the oven hot, turn off and disconnect the power and take your measurements again. If they read the same your wiring harness should be okay and replace the sensor.
Oh and btw, you'll most likely have to splice the wires to adapt to your new sensor they're never the same.. not in my experience lately anyway.
If the relays are clicking there is 2 1000 uf capacitors on the board that if looked at from the side they will be domed they are bad. Replace and the problem is solved.
SOURCE: Infrared heater model CZ20110. Is flashing E3 on
Ithink you must open it and check it inside for loss wires
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