Sounds like a defrost problem?
Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmdsBkO46dk defrost therm.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
SOURCE: Samsung Fridge side by side
It sounds like you have a defrost problem. This will either be the defrost heaters the defrost thermostat or defrost timer. In order to check the heater if you are competent enough you can check that you have resistance across the heater. Alternatively you can rotate the timer (normally in the fridge section abov the thermostat control) around to a defrost cycle (you will normally hear a click) and check to see if the defrost heater kicks in. Please note the cabinet has to be cold in order for the heaters to work. The defrost sensor should also have zero resistance across the terminals when the coil is cold. Please do no attempt the above unless you are practically skilled. A good fridge guy should be able to quickly identify the problem and remedy it. Defrost heaters are generally the first part to fail. Hope this is of some help.
SOURCE: Bottom mount freezer not getting cold enough
You have a failed component or components in your automatic defrost system. This is why you have excessive frost inside the freezer along the back wall. The timer could be stuck in run mode. The defrost thermostat (bi-metal) could be defective or the defrost heater could be open or shorted.
SOURCE: FRIGIDAIRE FRS20ZRGD7 (SIDE BY SIDE) WARM FRIDGE/ COLD FREEZER HELP!
look open the freezer door pull the lower kick plate off look for a small little hole there its a mechanical timer model should be close to the wheel in that hole will be a plastic piece open the freezer door you will hear the fan running in the freezer take out the four or five screws on the lower panel where you keep seeing the frost and remove it you will see a silver honeycomb looking piece that's the evaporator on one of the tubes will be clipped a silver dome looking piece with two wires on it that's the defrost thermostat now turn the timer with a screwdriver that's the piece in the little hole slowly to your right till you hear a click and the fan stops in the freezer now as your turning it it will make a ratchet sound you want the click and the fan to stop look at your watch and note the time then wait about 5 minutes and look at the heater to see if its on if its all frosted up the frosted should look all watery if the heater is on then just let it run if not then reach up and turn the freezer control to the off position then un plug the two wires on the defrost thermostat and take the two wires that you unplugged the thermostat from and plug them back together and turn the freezer control back on and wait stay there and watch the heater come on let it defrost the evaporator if the heater comes on when you do that .that means the thermostat is bad if the heater comes on without you having to by pass it that means the timer is bad if you do all that and the heater does not come on then the heater element is bad now its going to get red like an oven and pop and sizzle but don't let it freak you out now if you had to by pass the thermostat and the timer cuts the compressor on before the frost is all clear just turn the timer around again till the fan cuts off and the heater will come back on if you by passed the thermostat then when all the frost is melted then reach up and turn the freezer control back off and reconnect the thermostat.Now after about 30 mins after turning it off the timer should cut back on if its not bad when you change the timer back out the two screws reach under the fridge and turn the timer and its shield till the screws are in the removal position when the timer is loose remove the shield and unplug the timer plug your new one back in then put the shield back on and back where it goes now id recommend changing both the timer and the thermostat as they fail pretty close together the stuff i described above is to make the unit defrost to save your food with out having to use your hair dryer also when all the frost is melted at he bottom of the evaporator on the right hand side is a hole in the cabinet that has to be clear of frost for the fridge to cool properly now any time during this defrost technique if you have a problem turning off the freezer cold control will turn off the defrost system too if i can be of help or you need to know something just reply to this post
SOURCE: Ice maker stopped after electric shutoff
You may have a problem with the computer control board in the ice maker. Try this. Turn off the icemaker for about 2 minutes.
Turn on the ice maker and press the clear button. Press and hold this button for 12 seconds to get it to force extract. This will confirm that the motors will work and push the ice cubes out. Afterwards, let it run by itself. If it still doesn't make ice, you will need to replace the icemaker.
SOURCE: refrigerator will not get cold, but freezer works
Make sure your fan is working ,its located behind the freezers back wall. If it is working the vent from the freezer down to the refrigerator may be blocked (usually with ice).With out a fan you have no circulation but your freezer may look likes its working,it may last 3 days.Also if you can move everything out unplug it turn it off w/ doors open untill all traces of ice are gone this will free up any clogged tubes. Good luck.
Len West
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