Question about Sony Televison & Video

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I have a Sony KDL-46EX700 TV and am trying to repair it. It powers up and shortly after, the powers goes off and the red LED light then blinks 6 times repeatedly.

I removed the back cover and tested the main power board with my multi-tester. The board consistently read 3.3 DC volts from the "Standby" power connection so I believe the main power board is not the problem. Any recommendations on finding the problem so I can decide if repair makes sense?

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  • Sony Master
  • 55,370 Answers

Failing power supply

Posted on Dec 02, 2019


6 Suggested Answers


6ya staff

  • 2 Answers


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017



  • 8909 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Sony KDS-R50XBR1

  • Five blinks - AKB circuit (automatic kine bias), the timer/standby indicator blinks for about 30 seconds then goes to the self-diagnosis function. Something is wrong with the video. Check video out, Q705, 732, 761 and other components on the C board, also check Q218, 219, 220 on the A board. In addition, unit could be in IK blanking, try turning up screen A2 slightly.

Posted on Jan 19, 2011

SOURCE: I got a Sony Bravia
Above is a link for a service manual.

Hi, well I applaud you for starting in the right place, The power supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Gee it seems that you have replaced just about the entire "Guts" of the set, in the industry we call this the "Shot gun" method, however it seldom works in reality. One really needs to isolate the Cause, of the "Fault" and repair that and also any damage done by that. As if one doesn't remove the "Cause" it will simply fault again when the "New" bit is connected up. One needs to get the unit going section by section, testing and proving the prior section before connecting up to the next, which also must be tested to make sure that what you are going to connect will NOT damage what you are connecting it to.
Also unfortunately, these LED's Blinks, are NOT an error code in actual fact.
What you need to do is use the service manual, and follow through the troubleshooting steps, to isolate and hopefully repair your problem.
Basically it is all about voltages and if they are correct, a Higher voltage than stated usually means a component is Open circuit or a very high resistance, whereas a Lower than stated voltage usually indicates a Short Circuit, or low value resistance component, is "Faulty". These are all in the SM, as are the waveforms that must be checked, it is indeed very difficult to repair electronics these days without specialised equipment and even though I have over 30 years experience i find it difficult, so good luck.

Posted on Feb 24, 2011


  • 8909 Answers

SOURCE: Sony Bravia KDL-40S3000...standby red light blinks

There may be no horizontal ouput, Check C515 & 516 and the jungle IC, IC206.

Hope that helps

Posted on Feb 28, 2011


  • 8909 Answers

SOURCE: I replaced the main board in my sony Kdl-32S300.

B+ over voltage protection (OVP), unit goes to the standby mode then displays the 3 blink fault. This is also a problem in the power supply circuit, check T603 and R672.
Have you set the output voltage correctly?

Posted on Mar 24, 2011


Shahid Electronics

  • 10594 Answers

SOURCE: When plugged in, Sony Bravia

Check BL_ERR pin on back light inverter board, what is volt reading that you get before and after tv shuts down? Let me know to proceed.

BTW, I really enjoyed your quote * I don't trust the blinking anymore *

Posted on Aug 12, 2011

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2 Answers

Tv wont turn on

Could be an open internal fuse or power supply failure

Mar 17, 2018 | Televison & Video


How to test an LCD TV or monitor PSU and inverter


Before proceeding I assume you have technical training along with the multimeter. A full testing must be done with power on, and for safety reason must not be done by an untrained user.

The tip contains only general indications. The reader is supposed to have the training to apply in practice the testing method below.

If there is no power at all, then the responsible is almost always the PSU.

When there is no power, test AC in to PSU. If there is no AC in (read volts, or read ohms on power cable), that means that the power cord must be replaced.

If there is AC in, then test the PSU section near to AC input. You always find a resistor or a fuse in there . Check if it has blown.
After that you test the rest of PSU component. If there is no power at all , and problem is not power cord, it is often possible to spot at a glance a leaky or bulged capacitor.

If there is power, but the monitor stays in standby, then te PSU is forced to low voltage only by controller board. This happens when a fault had been detected.

In this case testing the PSU becomes more complicate. The technician must locate the control lines from controller board. This control lines operate at lower PSU voltage (often +5V), and turn on higher voltages on PSU board.

The inverter may use for example a +20V line from PSU. The +20V line is turned on by the controller board, closing a +5V control line to PSU. When PSU is in standby mode, the technician testing the PSU must bridge the +5V line with the PSU low +5V circuit, and test if the +20V line to the inverter gets turned on.

As explained this kind of test must not be done by the unexperienced user, as the chance to waste the unit beyond repair is high, and there are also many safety concerns.

After testing the PSU, next part to test will be the inverter board.

The inverter is tested reading DC voltage in from controller board, and AC out to back light system.
The inverter is an high voltage board, remember, safety first when testing AC circuit.

If the inverter has no DC from controller, then test PSU, if PSU is OK, and inverter has still no DC in when PSU line to inverter is on, then replace controller board.
If the inverter has DC in, and no AC out, then replace the inverter.
If the inverter has DC in and AC out when higher DC voltage to inverter is turned on, then test at component level the main controller board, and if present test LCD controller.


on Mar 03, 2010 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Lg 47lw5700 not powering on, red standby light blinks. Removed back panel and tested power supply board.

3.3 is the right reading on the power switch on the main is telling the power board to turn on like it should be, your power board is bad.

Feb 07, 2018 | LG Televison & Video

1 Answer

Samsung UN65EH6000FXZA (Version YH02)

There is three possibilities:
1. Defective back lights LED strip.
2. Defective LED driver section integrated in the main power supply.
3. the main board.

How to check it:
1. You need a LED back lights tester to check the strips, or open the panel, use a 3.7 V DC power supply to test each LED diode separately.
2. Use a multi meter to test the out put DC voltage from the connector to the LED strip between the + & - for each section, (like 1+/1-, 2+/2- etc.) it should read 140 - 220 V DC. (need power up the TV).
3. Un-plug the cable between the main board & the power supply, power up the TV, if you get the back lights light up, the main board is bad.

Aug 11, 2017 | Samsung Televison & Video

1 Answer


hi,the first thing to check with this kind of problem is the power supply section.this requires opening of the back cover.If you are handy with electronics you can check the voltage present at the power board by using a digital multimeter..

here's the procedure,
Use a philip screw driver to unscrew the cover.once the cover is remove,you can immediately see the power supply board .Powe supply board is where the power cord is connected(make sure to unplug the unit before proceeding)
check the fuses,set the tester to resistance or continuity test.test the fuse you must have a reading of 0000 this means that fuse is good OC means fuse is open.replace the fuse with the same type of amperage it is printed on the fuse...
If the fuse are ok,check for the voltage output of the power board.voltage are as follows,
5 volts DC supply for the mainboard
12volts DC for the audio board
24 volts DC for the screen
when all this voltages are present problem could be on tha mainboard itself and needs a replacement.

If one of the voltages fails then you need to repair the power board check and replace all bulging capacitors and open can also replace the whole powerboard It is available online at
good luck and let me know how it goes..

Jun 06, 2012 | Seiki SC221FS 22 Class LCD HDTV

1 Answer

How to use

Voltage testers and volt meters are two different things. A meter will provide a an indication of the exact voltage and type AC or DC. A tester on the other hand simply provides an indication of presence of power with little to no indication of how much or type.

AC power is what is provided by most power companies in the world. DC is a type of power provided by batteries and DC power supplies. If your tester or meter has provisions to check for AC and DC, you should check for BOTH. If AC power is present and you are have set your meter to test for DC power, your meter will indicate 0 volts. You can see this can be a dangerous condition. Most simple testers will not care if AC or DC power is being tested and the types that use neon lamps will usually glow differently for AC and DC power.

When setting up for testing voltage, you must test across the power source (or in "parallel") or load (such as a light bulb), as opposed to "in series" with the power source. Across would be from the + to - post of a battery, into the slots of an outlet, etc. "In series" is when the tester would be completing a circuit - such as testing across an open switch.

First, check the meter's operation by testing a known good power source by following the next steps. Set the meter for the type power to be tested. Choose AC if unsure. Next, set the meter for the highest voltage range supported. Make sure this range is higher than the expected voltage, otherwise damage to the meter may result. Connect the probes to the power source. Read the meter. If the meter moved only slightly, adjust the range of the meter to the next lower value. You can keep adjusting downward as needed to get the most precise reading possible - but do not set the range to a value less than the voltage present. A 0-300 volt scale is the lowest to measure a 240 volt outlet - switching to a 0 - 150 volt scale will damage the meter. The 0 - 150 volt scale would be fine for measuring 120 volt outlets.

If the meter did not move, change the type from AC to DC. and repeat. If it still does not work, the meter is not working correctly (if testing a know good source) or there is no power present (if the meter worked on a known good power source).

Good luck!

May 12, 2012 | Measuring Tools & Sensors

2 Answers

IR Compressor sl.No N37 - 75KW NIRVANA -TEO179V05257 (oil free screw compressor). Machine trips with VSD 8 fault. Hall effect sensor is new one and is connected as per the correct sequence. Are there...

Yes, the control board may be bad . Ihave attached a procedure for checking the hall effect sensors, some of which you will not have the special tool needed to preform all the tests. However it will allow you to check the control board which may be bad causing your problem.

10 Revision 001 - March, 2002
Appendix 4 - Hall Effect Sensor Checks (Four Part)
1. Isolate the compressor from the main incoming voltage supply. Lock and tag the
isolation switch in the open position.
2. Allow 15 minutes for the VSD to discharge capacitors.
3. Open enclosure doors to expose the VSD.
4. Check with a suitable meter that all voltages have dissipated before beginning work on
the VSD.
5. Remove rear cover of drive motor to permit rotating by hand.
6. Disconnect Hall Effect Cable from P4 on the Control Board, plug type is DB9 Type.
7. Inspect cable pins and matching receptacle connections for damage or bent pins.
Remove cover of plug and inspect solder connection of the wires for damage.
9. Inspect entire length of the cable for damage. If cable and connections are in good condition,
proceed to Test 2.
9. Confirm supply voltage to the Hall Effect Sensor is present using a digital multi-meter.
10. Disconnect terminal strips P1, P2 & P3 from the bottom of Control Board.
11. Trip and switch off MCB2 and MCB5 to prevent the SGN Intellisys from powering up.
12. Re-connect main incoming supply voltage to the unit. Isolation contactor KM1 should remain
de-energized and the VSD should only receive control power. Caution must be taken as the
panel has voltage present.
13. Set digital multi-meter to DC Volts.
14. Connect Black probe of multi-meter to either of the 2 pins of P16.
Note: P16 is located on the Control Board, slightly less than half way down and towards the left side.
P16 is marked and described as 2 small bare pins. P16 is the ground connection for the Control
15. Locate the small transistor just above Pin 3 on terminal strip P1. The transistor has 3 pins on
the left side. The pins are numbered 1 at the top, 2 in the middle and 3 at the bottom.
16. Connect Red probe of multi-meter to Pin 3. The voltage should be between +11 and +14 Volts
17. If voltage is not present, replace the Control Board.
11 Revision 001 - March, 2002
17. Connect special adapter XXXXXXXX between P4 on the Control Board and the Hall
Effect Sensor Cable.
19. Set digital multi-meter to DC Volts.
20. Connect Black probe of multi-meter to either of the 2 pins on P16.
21. Connect Red probe of multi-meter to Red wire of the adapter. Rotate motor by hand and
observe measurement. The meter should read between +10 and +12 Volts DC.
22. Repeat the test with the Black wire of the adapter. The meter should read between +10 and +12
Volts DC.
23. Repeat the test with the Yellow wire of the adapter. The meter should read between +10 and +12
Volts DC.
24. If voltage does not rise to between +10 and +12 Volts DC for any of the 3 sensors, replace the
Hall Effect Sensor Assembly.
25. Set digital multi-meter to Ohms.
25. Connect multi-meter between Purple and Green wires of special adapter XXXXXXXX. The meter
should show a resistance value of approximately 150 Ohms ± 20% (New Hall Effect Sensors)* at
70° F (20° C) ambient temperature.
27. If correct value is not confirmed, replace the Hall Effect Sensor Assembly.
Note: Two temperature ranges (130° C and 150° C) of Hall Effect Sensor have been used. Typically,
the 50/60hp (37/45kW) units use a 130° C sensor and the 75/100hp (55/75kW) units use a 150°C
sensor. All sensors have a small band near the sensor end of the cable.
The 130° C sensor has four digits such as 6622 on the band. The 150° C sensor could have either a
four digit number with a star on each side (*6752*) or a four digit number followed by a star and the
letter E (6752*E) or a four digit number followed by an E (7652E).
Appendix 5 - Megger Main Motor Windings

Sep 17, 2011 | Ingersoll Rand Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

Fan on my big buddy heater just stopped working changed batteries still not working?tried the switch nothing .i only have radiant heat.

I would first check the wiring connections to fan and get a multi meter , set on 12 volts dc and see if fan motor has 12 vdc input voltage.
Too cheap to buy a voltage tester at wal mart ot harbor frieght, you can use a 12 volt bulb and socket, if you already have one. Remove fan wires & hook up 12 volt light bulb & if it lights, you got the juice. Carefull,dont let live wires touch because you short out $26.00 big buddy fan transformer. work with fan transformer unplugged from wall and dont plug in until you sure no wires touch.
use electrical or duct tape. electrical tape better.

otherwise,just buy the multi meter, they only $8.00 to $10.00
read & understand instructions, before you try to use it. otherwise,you could burn out your new meter.

well worth owning &
learning to use multi meter. I use it thousands of times.

if fan motor has juice but wont run, check fan shaft to see if it turns freely or scrapes or is stuck. oil fan motor bearings ,change the brushes.
make sure that the fan blades are not touching the fan housing and can turn freely.
if it still dont work, buy new fan motor.
if no juice at fan motor, check mr heater switch with the power off,unplug transformer from the wall or remove batteries.,
and use the ohm meter setting of the multi- meter to test for continuity of the switch when the switch is in the on position.
power must be off when using the ohm setting of a multimeter.
if power is on & using the ohm setting of the multi meter, you will blow out the multimeter. The ohm setting uses a 1.5 volt dc battery inside the multimeter to test for a compleated circuit.
so, 12volts dc would blow it out on ohms setting.
If the switch is good,reinstall it on mr.heater and test the output of the transformer or battery compartment using the 20 volt dc scale of the multi meter. the voltage scale you select ,must be higher than the voltage you expect to find ,in order to avoid damage to the multi meter.
observe polarity,positive to red and negative to black.

the dc voltmeter setting is totally polarity sensitive and a reversed hook up could blow out the meter.
multi meter means it can read ac volts, dc volts,ohms and dc amps. Read and understand the included instructions before using a multi meter
a good single battery in new condition reads 1.62volts dc
1.5 vdc is almost dead, a good used battery reads 1.58 to 1.6 vdc
below 1.58 vdc is weak battery and 1.48 vdc is usually totally dead, but may be enough for momentary usage under 1 minute.

Sep 08, 2010 | Mr. Heater Big Buddy Heater

3 Answers

When switching panasonic tv on it goes into standby

It is for sure that your set has encountered a fault in the power section in the main board. There could be either a failure or a break in the circuit. So first of all open and check the main power board for any signs of dry soldering joints. Use a good soldering iron and a good light to probe. Solder all possible areas specially ones closer to the power resistors and drives. next check the +B voltage, trace it or disconnect from the ddrive to confirm the failure. You must use a good multimeter to check from the power section which is working and is cutting off due to a failed feedback. If not familiar do not attempt but take help. I hope you can decide and try. Good day

Jul 23, 2010 | Panasonic TX-32LX1F 32 in. LCD TV

1 Answer

I have an old Tripp-Lite SMART 500 UPS. When plugged in I get no lights at all, I have tried all switches. I cannot find a manual on line for this particular model. What would cause this? It seems like...

You unscrew the UPS cover to get it open.
1. Find the fuse, see and check if it is alright with a
multi tester. Set the tester at Ohms 1 x 10, and
put the red probe of the tester at one end of the
fuse, while the black probe to the other end of the
fuse. The pointer must be at zero. Otherwise, have
it replaced.
2. Test your UPS, if it is working. It it works, then,
it is a job well done.
3. If not, proceed testing the batteries for voltage
reading. Set the multi tester at DC volts 1 x 25 V
If this will register a residual voltage of 2 volts, try
plugging your UPS to an outlet. Test is after 2
hours. If the voltage improves, say 8 volts, then,
plug this back until the battery reaches the full
voltage rating.
4.Hook it up to your PC, and it's done.

Nov 28, 2009 | Video Game Consoles & Games

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