Question about Garden
For starter to engage all the following are needed. Arms OUT, Brake ON, and PTO OFF.
Cycle all the safeties i.e. move Arms in to out. Brake to off then on. PTO on to off.
If it cranks but doesnt fire it could be seat switch or other.
Posted on Dec 01, 2019
Probably switch is bad and should be replaced. Temporarily you could short wires going to the switch but you have to remember that you no longer will have that safety feature and machine could be started without operator on the seat or could drive itself when operator is no longer on the seat.
Posted on Dec 01, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
On later models there are possibly three safety switches, one under the seat, one for the blade engage mechanism or blade clutch so the blades don't turn when the mower is started, and a neutral safety switch to make sure the mower is in neutral before it starts.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
Need more info...
When it dies, does it crank back up? if not, at this time, you could check for spark. If none, you might be on track with a fault in a switch.
But if you have spark and it doesn't crank,
check for condesation in the gas (carburator and fuel tank). If any, problem solved... drain and dry carb bowl and gas tank to insure all trace of water is out.
Hope this helps... Good luck!
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
SOURCE: electrical problem
Strange as it may seem, if the mower dies when the brake is released, the problem is in the seat switch circuit. The safety circuits are designed to let you start the engine even if you're not in the seat, as long as the brake is on and PTO is off. While it might be the seat switch again, I'd also look at the the switch mounting or adjustment. If out of adjustment, it won't operate even though you sit in the seat. Also I think the associated wiring and connections to the seat switch may hold your problem.
If you're up for troubleshooting it yourself, try this:
Get an automotive test light (10 bucks or less). Clip the black lead to the negative battery terminal. Touch the pointed test probe to the positive battery terminal to confirm the tester is actually working. Lights up? OK, onward. Note that the pointed probe can be touched to a connection, but can also used to pierce through the insulation of a wire to test it.
Examine the wiring to the seat switch. One wire will go to a relay - a black module the size of an ice cube. Call that the "relay wire". The other should go to an area with several connections. Call that the "hot wire".
Engine off, nobody sitting in the seat. Turn the ignition on -- don't crank or start the engine, just turn the ignition switch to the first position. Probe into what we called the "hot wire". The test light should go on. If you can't get it to light, that wire or its associated connections is probably bad.
If the "hot wire" is, as they say, "hot", then probe the other wire to the switch -- the one we called the "relay wire". You'll have to operate the seat switch manually, or put tape over the button to keep it operated. The test light should light up, and if so, the seat switch and its connections are good. If not, then the seat switch or its connections are bad.
If everything's good so far, tape the seat switch in the activated position while you trace along that "relay wire" to where it connects to the relay. Perhaps the connection at the other end is loose, or the wire broken off inside the insulation. Use the probe to test along it and to test the relay terminal where it connects.
I hope this has been of help. If so, please rate my answer, thanks and good luck!
Posted on Jun 04, 2010
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