- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Snowblowers typically dont have fuel filters. So of course the carburetor gets debris fouled and the repair shop puts in a inline filter.
The manufacturers dont like fuel filters for snowblowers because they can freeze if water is present. But I have a two strike rule. If a machine comes back more than once with debris in fuel, it gets a filter.
To check the filter (engine off and cool) disconnect the line on the carburetor side of the filter. Fuel should flow in a steady stream. If it drips, try a new filter.
If you have fuel up to the carburetor but no fuel in the cylinder (from carburetor) then likely the carburetor float is stuck. Especially if it sat for 10 months. You'll need to make sure fuel is filling the carburetor bowl. Loosen the carburetor bowl nut or remove nut and bowl. Fuel should flow steady from the inlet needle valve.
Changing fuel lines is an easy job but its going to vary quite a bit depending on the model of the snowblower and whether its a single or dual stage unit. Generically speaking, you will always have a fuel line going from the fuel tank to the carburetor. In between, you may have a fuel filter, a fuel shut off, or perhaps nothing at all. Replacing the fuel line is just a matter of getting access to it. Typically when I replace one that does not have a fuel shut off, I pinch the fuel line with vise grips. Since you are replacing it anyway, it won't matter if it hurts it any. Once it is pinched off, remove the line from the carburetor. Getting access to this will depend on the type of machine you have. Single stages typically have a panel on the back that comes off to gain access. 2-stages will have a carb box cover. When you get the fuel line off, aim the line into some kind of container where you can drain the fuel by taking the vise grips off. Once the fuel is drained, you can take off the end at the fuel tank as well. These often have little clips on them that need to be squeezed together by needle nose pliers. When you have the fuel line piece off, i use the old piece to measure the length of the new piece. Most small engine fuel lines are 1/4" and you can find them at all the big box stores, rural king, etc. Then just put the new fuel line back on the tank and carb, and you are good to go. Below is a video on how to do it on a snow king engine. Chances are this isn't your engine, but watching will give you the general idea.
You didn't tell us what you have for a motor in it ! Assuming you've already installed a new spark plug, depending on type of motor the following procedure will give you an idea if your possibly dealing with a fuel/carburetor issue. Find a way to shut the fuel off that is coming from the fuel tank to the carburetor. Find the carburetor and it's bowl some engines will have a screw or bolt that seats into the bowl which can be backed out to drain the contents of fuel and such. Others may have a push drain that if you look closely has a spring on it and a smooth topped pin of which you can push and drain fuel, yet another will be held by a what will look like a bolt coming straight up through the bottom of the bowl which can be removed. Which ever one you have drain that fuel that comes out into a clean container and look to see if there's any water or debris in it, if there is get as much out of the bowl as you can and drain the fuel tank and fuel to carburetor fuel line completely out. Add new fuel and restart and retry. Let us know if it doesn't run okay and we'll go from there but type and horse of motor size would be helpful. Good Luck!
Many small engine problems such as you described are fuel related. In today's world, most of our gasolines are blended with ethanol and thus gasoline shelf life has been reduced to 4-6 months. It is important that after each season's use you be certain to run the snowblower until all gasoline in the tank and carburetor have been used - effectively running the snowblower out of gas. If you did't do that last season the "old" gasoline in the carburetor has began to gum up and will not let the carburetor mix fuel and air properly. The solution will be to remove, disassemble and clean the carburetor. It is likely the gas tank will also need to be drained, removed, and cleaned. If you are unable to do this you will need to take to a qualified small engine mechanic in your area.
Lastly and, very importantly, make certain when you are ready to use your repaired snowblower that you use FRESH gasoline. And, remember the first part of this discussion at the end of the season.
Carburetor might be gummed up with old fuel. I would recommend carburetor overhaul. That should be the fix. When storing your snowblower till next use, either run the engine until out of gas or add fuel stabilizer to fuel tank to prevent fuel break down that causes damage to carburetors when not used for a long time.
Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and check for a thin stream of fuel running out. If it just drips, the fuel filter may be plugged. If fuel does stream out, then the carburetor may have plugged jets from stale fuel remaining in the carburetor after the last running. Remove the float bowl, and use spray carburetor cleaner on the jets. Running fuel system cleaner in the tank should help as well. Good luck!
×