I checked the error code (from Google) and I think it is 5? From left to right there are two lights on 6th and 8th The pump and the drainage area were clean.
WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you may have selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
The item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test.
Another test u can do to check the water inlet valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
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If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
TIMER
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
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SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel Smart Dribe 608
not familliar with that exact model number ( we dont have that over here in the US) we have simalair f&p gwl10- gwl11) that problem sounds as if either the pump is bad and overheating before pumping all the water or a diverter valve is not fully closing allowing water to remain in tub.
SOURCE: my fisher and paykel smartdrive
with no error code ... I would check you drain pump or drain hose... you first may want to try a shop vac connected to the end of a drain hose .. let me know if it helps
SOURCE: fisher paykel will not complete rinse spin cycle
will sence it will spin once the water is out .that must mean your pump is restricted.unplug go to buttom of washer find pump and clean out
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel washer GW712 won't spin
There is an issue with your drainage area. Best to remove the pump and check for the obstruction in the line or at the impellar.(If the water is not completely drained, the pressure switch wont send a low level to the timer to allow a spin).
SOURCE: I have a fisher paykel ecosmart wash cycle but when
Tip the Washer and check the hoses.... my husband just found 2 pennies stuck in one of the hoses in my F&P GWL15
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