Question about Bosch Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: test bosch heating element
remove the kick plate at bottom of dishwasher, at the left leg there will be a wiring diagram. remove console and test element from there. diagram will show which wires to test
Posted on Nov 20, 2007
Dishwashers normally are hot or cold feed.
My wife runs water at the sink to get it hot going in before turning on the dishwasher.
You can use either cold or hot water.
We have ours hooked up to the hot water side.
They work better hooked up to the hot water.
Posted on Mar 21, 2008
Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills, OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem.
I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.
Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.
STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.
To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)
Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.
I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.
Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.
Posted on May 09, 2009
SOURCE: Bosch SHU5300
If your heat cycle is not coming on, which it sounds like it is not, then you may have a problem with the heating system. There is a well known issue with many of the Bosch dishwashers that use the (266746) control module. Basically, there is a relay (which is a kind of electro-mechanical switch) that is used to turn on the built-in heater. There is a solder joint on the main Printer Circuit Board (PCB) that allow electricity to flow to the heater, that joint often will melt away and burn the surrounding area of the PCB. This is most likely a design flaw and appears to occur at about the 4-5 year mark. One way you can test for this is to run the onboard diagnostics routine that is programmed into the firmware of the micro-controller (brain) of the dishwasher. The way to do so it to press and hold the (Scrub Wash & Delicate/Econo) buttons at he same time and then press the on/off power switch to the on position. The LED lights above both those buttons should begin to flash, when they do, press them both again and the diagnostics program will start. It is a multi-phase program that will run for quite a while. Once it finishes, if it is a heating problem, it will end with a number 2 code in the display. If this is so, then it very well maybe the solder-joint issue on the control module and it will need to be replaced. It runs $128.10 US directly from www.bosch-appliances.com. Good luck.
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
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