If an oven turns on but won't stay on it could be due to a faulty thermal fuse that trips if the oven overheats. If this is blown the oven won't turn on at all. One of the relays on the relay control might be faulty as well, in that case a new board is required. A faulty main control board is a common cause as well.
Bake and Broil Elements: These main elements can burn out over time. They can crack and get holes. Best to inspect them for damage.
Igniter: Igniters are the number one cause of an oven not turning on. Igniters open the safety valve and heat up to ignite the gas in the burner assembly. It can be tested with a multimeter for continuity and replaced if necessary.
I got this info from https://www.electrafixbc.ca/appliances/stove.html.
SOURCE: new gas valve, new gas smell
CG, unfortunately you replaced the wrong part. The problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in
series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of
electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to
"bake". When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow
through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating. It will also cause your symptoms as well...
Here's the scenario; Say your safety valve is "looking" for 2.5 amps of electricity flowing through it before it'll open up and allow gas to the manifold. Your igniter is designed to allow 2.8-3.2 amps to flow in good operating condition, but your igniter has become "weak"... it's now allowing 2.48-2.51 amps. The safety valve is sensing this and opening and closing rapidly, allowing gas to flow through it (fluttering). BUT! the igniter is not hot enough to ignite the gas and/or there is not enough gas to ignite do to the fluttering effect of the valve. Sometimes it'll light sometimes it won't.
Your igniter is the cause and needs to be replaced.
Before
you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part
number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts
retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.
First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!
To
replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will
expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted. (It's the
round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into
it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.
(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish
soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not
strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)
The
new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two
wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then
connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the
ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the
oven.
(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)
There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.
SOURCE: ignition wont stop while oven is working
Egnition is a push button to a spark generator, If this is electric, the obvious answer would be turn off the electric. This should not affect the gas unless if is temp controled by electric. Usually the temp is set gy a gas regularor controlled with a knob and set before gas is ignited.
SOURCE: My grill won't light
Hi
Forgive me for asking this, but you have read the instructions haven't you?
If you have, and it's still not working, then the likelihood is that there is a fault, this could be one of the following:
Faulty solenoid valve to grill (some grills had a safety button fitted to stop you from closing the door if the grill was being used)
Blocked pipe inside unit
Either way you need to get a qualified gas engineer to take a look at it, if it's under warrranty call the manufacturers first!
I hope this helps
Steve :)
SOURCE: Belling countrychef - Main oven gas doesnt stay on
the flame failure device has failed ,you will need a new thermocouple
SOURCE: New World TGO 70 grill not working because door was closed
THIS IS PROBABLY BEST LEFT TO A QUALIFIED ENGINEER. To reset the grill thermal cut out. This is located under the metal panel at the top of the unit and it is necessary to ether partially or fully remove the whole oven from its housing to get at it. 1. Disconnect electric supply. 2 remove the 2 housing retaining screws. These are located either side of the at the top of the grill cavity. 3.Pull the whole oven /grill unit out and support it underneath to stop it falling forward. 4. Remove metal cover covering top of oven. 5. the safety cut out is a small component that has 2 wires connected to it by spade terminals, in the middle of which is a small red button. push this button gently with the end of a pencil or screwdriver until it clicks. This should now be reset and allow the gas supply to the grill to resume. Finally reassemble making sure that the integrity of the gas and electrical supplies are, in no way compromised and test.
Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have
the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip
about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven
not Heating
Oven
Problems Replacing the Igniter
heatman101
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