SOURCE: water tank level indicator sinks to the bottom when water tank is full.
Hi,
I think the float is up and down, try to take it out and turn it.
Look at the float in the other tank to see if it is same position, the rounded side should be down.
Let me know if you get it to work.
Best regards
/Mirran
SOURCE: Engine taking up too much water (1 tank/100kms)
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I do not have expertise
specific to Mitsubishi passenger cars, but I can offer some generic automotive
engine advice.
At risk of oversimplifying, all that water is going somewhere and here are a
few common culprits in increasing order of cost:
This is a sneaky problem but is
cheap and easy to fix! The radiator cap serves to keep the coolant
in the engine under pressure, and that pressure raises the boiling
point. If the cap is slowly failing, the coolant can quietly boil
away in much the same away as water left in a pot on a hot stove with
little or no evidence, other than reports from the temperature gauge or
light. You can take your radiator cap to a mechanic for pressure
testing, but replacements are available at most parts stores for very little
money. Note: you already know this, but NEVER OPEN A HOT
RADIATOR OR RECOVERY TANK OR YOU WILL GET BURNED!
Troubleshooting requires
getting under the car WHILE IT IS SHUT OFF AND PROPERLY SECURED and
looking for obvious moisture. If you find a leak, it should be
immediately obvious which component (e.g., tank, hose, etc.) needs repair
or replacement. Tanks can be surprisingly expensive since manufacturers
often mold them to fit each unique model of automobile. Note:
plastic tanks often begin to crack where they connect to hoses or where exposed
to greatest heat.
Since you are checking around the recovery tank anyway, carefully inspect
all the engine hoses for damage, soft spots (healthy hoses should feel
firm when squeezed, only a little softer than the inside of your forearm),
or poor or leaking clamps. Hoses deteriorate most where they are
hottest, where they make tight bends, and where they attach to other parts
like the radiator or engine. Hoses are relatively inexpensive and
are available at most parts stores.
Like caps, tanks, and hoses,
radiators live a hard life of high pressure and heat, with the added bonus
of being right out front where they can be hit by rocks, small animals,
and other debris. If a radiator corrodes internally or has minor
exterior damage it may begin to leak only when the engine is running and
at normal operating temperature. With engine off and completely cool,
open the radiator (if possible) or the recovery tank and inspect the
coolant. If it shows evidence of foaming, rust-colored material, or
sand-like grit, you probably have internal corrosion and need to replace
at least your radiator and possibly the coolant hoses. If the
coolant and inside of the radiator look clean, closely inspect the entire
outside of the radiator for evidence of corrosion, usually appearing as
greenish-, whitish-, or rusty-colored deposits, and most often found at
hose fittings and joints where the radiator is braised together during
assembly. You will also find deposits
anywhere a pinhole leak exists. Again,
if you find these symptoms, replace your radiator. Finally, run the engine up to normal
operating temperature, shut it off, and closely inspect the exterior of
the radiator for steam or wet spots.
When a water pump begins to
fail it often "weeps" or leaks small amounts from a small drain
hole in the pump body. With the engine hot (i.e., after running to
normal operating temperature) BUT NOT RUNNING carefully examine the water
pump for obvious signs of seepage both at the gasket where it connects to
the engine and behind the drive pulley. Replacement pumps are widely
available but can be expensive and challenging to install if you are not
mechanically inclined.
OK, now we are into the hard stuff. Every part of your engine mates
to other parts with thin gaskets. Most of the gasket surface is
internal and thus not visible to inspection on an assembled engine. Cooling
system gasket failures sometimes manifest by leaking into the engine
directly and are thus very hard to detect. So, how do we diagnose an
internal leak? If the coolant is leaking in very small quantities into
the exhaust or the combustion chamber, you can sometimes see or smell the
burned result at the tailpipe. If you are using conventional coolant
(e.g., antifreeze, glycol, or ethylene glycol), the tailpipe emissions
will smell very sweet and maybe obviously moist or even steaming,
sometimes with liquid water dripping from the tailpipe. NOTE:
this should be obvious, but AUTOMOBILE EXHAUST GASSES ARE TOXIC AND CAN
CAUSE ILLNESS OR DEATH. DO NOT SPEND A LOT OF TIME INHALING EXHAUST
GASSES just take a few whiffs. Another
way to check for internal cooling system failures is to inspect the
coolant after running the engine briefly but before it all leaks
out. If the coolant has a slick of oil (a rainbow or black-oil effect),
you have breached cooling and oiling systems and are exchanging
fluids. Also, examine the oil on the engine dipstick; if it has a
thick gray- or white-colored greasy or foamy layer that may or may not
smell sweet you have an internal leak. Finally, have the cooling
system pressure tested by a trustworthy mechanic. When the cooling
system is open to much higher combustion chamber pressures it
over-pressurizes the cooling system and will be immediately obvious in a
pressure test. If you find that any
of these symptoms apply to your situation, you are looking at an imminent
catastrophic failure and should get the car to a mechanic
immediately. If you continue to operate a vehicle in this condition,
you will destroy the engine, and possibly cause a crash.
I hope this lengthy troubleshooting guide helps you solve your problem.
Good Luck!
Testimonial: "I thank you very much for this elaborated advice. I think i know now what to do: get a mechanic to verify the whole system, that will be the best."
SOURCE: Bloomfield Koffee King coffee maker
there should be a hose connecting the hole to the top of the water resevoir for venting (water expands when heated and the tank should always be full). If it is connected to a source of water (hot water on tap/ push to brew) it could also be a leak in the coil for the water on tap or the solonoid valve fo push to brew.
SOURCE: toilet keeps running water in
You don't have to replace, You just need to adjust the fill valve. If you have the ball **** type just tight the top phillips screw. If you have the newer type, close the water valve under the tank and Push down a plastic ring at the bottom of the filling valve, Push down the top of the valve, lift the plastic ring to it's place and open the water valve.
SOURCE: Toto one piece toilet intermitnently
This sounds like an inlet valve issue, or possibly a sunk float. Replace as needed. There should be a chamber that is LOWER than the handle, that would allow water to flow down into the bowl, is this item too tall?
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Water runs out of the hole on the back of the pump when it's not on. Why would it be doing this?
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