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Leonardo V Bombarda Posted on Sep 27, 2019
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My kenmore dryer is not warming when turn on? there's no current going to heating element? what's the issue?

Kenmore dryer Model# 110.C85089400, SER# MT0201018 TYPE: CADT- ELE- 2306024-EL54

1 Answer

Jim Hicks

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  • Master 661 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 02, 2019
Jim Hicks
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I don't know. it could be the heating a home fuse or your
dryer's heating element. open the dryer door. locate the dryer fuse or circuit breaker to see if it needs replacing or resetting. reset the breaker a few times or replace fuses with a good one. shut the dryer door and choose a new settings with high heat for a test. if OK, good. if no heat, it may be your heating element or something else. if not able to repair yourself, consider the age of your dryer and
cost of a replacement. if it runs OK and fails again in days
or weeks, your home wiring should be inspected. call for service right away.

2 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 5911 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 18, 2009

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite dryer Model:110.C60952990 almost no heat.

Before assuming you may have a component failure, do a little routine inspection of the dryer and exhaust vent ducting.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be because the exhaust ventilation ducting is clogged. If you can't remember the last time the exhaust vent was cleaned, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to dryer performance problems. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat, causing poor drying results and eventual failure. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.

There is no lint screen that catches ALL the dryer lint. Some lint will always get exhausted with the moisture from your clothing. If the exhaust vent is kinked or has excessive bends that create choke points, lint will accumulate in these points. Once the lint starts to accumulate, the moisture from your clothes starts to collect in it, and more lint get trapped. This eventually creates a clog. The Rule of Thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust ventilation ducting, the BETTER.

A simple test to determine if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry as they should, then you need to inspect the ducting thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.

If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.

If your exhaust vent runs to an attic, this is a poor design that gravity will always win because of the resistance the blower fan meets trying to push the exhaust up the wall. The lint will eventually collect in the ducting going up the wall and have to cleaned out from time to time.

Also, make sure you don't crush the dryer hose behind the dryer when you push it up against the wall. You should always leave plenty of space behind a dryer to prevent this from happening.

Rodents and birds are anotehr cause of dryer problems. If they have access to the outside exhaust vents, birds will build nests in them and mice love a warm place with plenty of bedding material (lint makes a nice nest). Make sure the exhaust vent is at least a foot from the ground and use a louver type cover to keep pests outside. Do not use a screen. It can resist air flow and clog.

In addition, you should be using semi-rigid metal type ducting that resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation.

If the air flow is weak, then you need to inspect the dryer INTERIOR to see if the air blower is working properly and is not clogged. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. Failue to do so can lead to component failures and is a potential fire hazard.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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Anonymous

  • 2341 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 17, 2011

SOURCE: how to change a heating

Hello,

This video will show ya how to replace that heat element

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Related Questions:

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Schematic kenmore 110 96585200

Firstly, take off the vent that hook up to the rear of the dryer, if the dryer got heat again. You should clean the vent. Else, there are quite a few component caused no heat. They are: thermal-cut-off (non-resettable), heating element.
Beware to unplug your dryer before opening it. The cut off thermal and heating element can check it connectivity by ohm meter. Normally, the cut-off causes this issue.
Check this link for more information http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Dryer-Parts/Model-11096585200/0582/0151200/10036890/00003
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No heat where is heater in kenmore mod.110.c66542500 ser.m53701943

I can't locate that model number..please recheck..most elements are located behind back panel, however, some are under front..there is a kickplate on some models on the lower front that comes off...it could be anything from a bad thermostat to low voltage causing this no heat.
Feb 08, 2011 • Dryers
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Have a kenmore dryer model 110.96586400 it has a brand new heating element and will not blow hot air. what else could it be and were can i get a manual for this unit?

do you have 220 volts to receptical? if so check the thermal fuses in the back going to the element. the tub will turn on 110 volts maybe the breaker is only letting 110 volts to the dryer. i have seen it happen before.
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I have A kenmore Elite Model #110.65942400 Ser MR2103237.

before you take it apart make sure you have not lost 1 phase of the 220 volt line into dryer , dryers will run and appear fine on 110 volts be will not heat check fuse or breaker and re-set breaker even if it does not appear tripped , if fuse in line turn off power and remove fuses and check with an ohm meter , then if you have a volt meter check for 220 volts @ socket of dryer , then we will talk dis-assembly
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No hot air

possible voltage issue be sure you have steady 240 at 2 outside screws on ac connection next ck timer quick ck unplug dryer remove console cover short large red and black wires together plug back in and turn on ..possible motor switch ..contacts in motor switch close as motor runs supplying one side of element with other 110 volts
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