Brake pads dont retract

the calliper slides on the pins bolted to the support bracket
if the calliper is not free to move on those pins, that will make pad installation difficult

The brake hose is clogged. When under pressure from applying breaks, the piston is forced tight to the rotor. When released the fluid will not return through the hose because there is no real pressure. Replace the hose.
murf427

Don't use a screw driver. That means you have hydrolic brakes. Take it to a bike shop. It is relatively difficult to open w/o damage it is easy to damage. Also, pick up some disk brake spacers that you put in when you remove the wheel to prevent just this problem.

The wound steel cable that connects your brake lever to the brake pads can be adjusted via a screw or nut at the top of the brake pad assembly. Simply loosen the assembly and gently tug the wire end toward the front of the bike tire to tighten brake grip; tug it backward to loosen. Tighten the screw partially to hold the cable in place, test the brakes with the brake lever, and adjust again if necessary before fully tightening. It may help to put the bike on a stand or hold it so that you can spin the wheel, check that the brakes are adjusted so that the pads do not rub the wheel. You can do the same thing with the rear brakes. You will need a small tool to loosen and tighten the brake pad assembly; your household toolbox should have something :)

While you are adjusting the brake tension you should also check the brake pads for signs of wear. If your bicycle brakes squeal, show uneven wear or are perfectly smooth, go to a shop and get a new set! Regular brake maintenance is very important for bike safety.

If you already overhauled the caliper, I would overhaul the lever as well. In fact, I usually overhaul the entire system instead of one or the other. As for the chattering sound, it sounds like the rotor is catching the edge of one of the brake pads. Check to see if the pads are retracting fully or see if the pads are loose in the caliper.

use a flat screw driver and push the pads back in on the calliper. Be gentile though.

Your brakes adjust automatically (so when the pads wear down your levers don't get looser). What you did was pull the brake lever and it adjusted making the pads shut.

Anyway all you need to do is take a wide flat-head screw driver and wiggle it back and forth between the 2 pads.

help is here:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Drum Removal

1. Remove the rear wheel and the tire assembly. Refer to Section 204-04 .

1. Retract the brake shoes and loosen the brake adjuster screw.

1. Remove the brake drum.

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May require big hammer to loosen drum from axle flange. Hit between the the lugs, not on them.

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#10 is access plug to back off adjusting wheel.


Item Part Number Description 1 2261 Rear wheel cylinder 2 — Dust boot (part of 2128) 3 2197 Wheel cylinder piston (part of 2261) 4 — Cup (part of 2128) 5 2204 Wheel cylinder piston cup spring (part of 2128) 6 — Wheel cylinder housing (part of 2261) 7 — Brake shoe hold-down pin 8 — Access hole (part of 2212) 9 — Rear brake bleeder screw (part of 2261) 10 — Access hole plug 11 — Rear wheel cylinder bolt 12 2212 Rear brake backing plate 13 — Rear brake backing plate bolts 14 2N790 Parking brake lever clip 15 — Spring washer 16 — Secondary brake shoe and lining (part of 2200) 17 — Brake shoe hold-down spring (part of 2B514) 18 — Lower retracting spring (part of 2B514) 19 2A637 Parking brake lever 20 — Parking brake lever pin 21 2A177 Brake shoe adjusting lever 22 — Adjuster lever pin (part of 2A177) 23 — Primary brake shoe and lining (part of 2200) 24 — Upper retracting spring (part of 2B514) 25 2041 Brake adjuster screw

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Shoes Removal

Take a picture and remember how each part goes and attaches

1. Remove the brake drum, refer to Drum in this section.

1. Remove the upper retracting spring.

1. Remove the lower retracting spring.

1. Remove the self-adjuster.

1. Remove the hold-down springs.

1. Remove the parking brake lever clip and the parking brake lever.

More then likely it is just a lubrication issue. Cables and housings need to be lubricated when they malfunction as such. Just a touch of lightwieght oil in the housing will work wonders. Also try lubricating all pivot points on the actual brake arms themselves.

Remember to use a bike specific lub and dont get any on the contacting surfaces of the brake pads......not a good thing at all.

Do not bleed the brakes! If you don't have the plastic rectangular spacers that came with the brake when they were new, go to your local bike shop or get an "old" teflon kitchen spatula that's thin enough to fit but make sure its a bit thicker than your rotors and try to pry the pads apart then wiggle it until a good portion is in between the pads. Then squeeze the brake lever with the spatula is in between. This should reset the pads leaving enough clearance for your rotor to fit. NOTE: Avoid depressing the lever when the wheel is off. This will cause the pistons to travel further than usual causing both pads to come together. Hope this helps.