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Kitchenaide microwave relay clicking then shuts down.

I had a KitchenAid YKHMS147HSS-1 Microwave is not working properly. When I start it I can hear rapid clicking from the relay on the control board for a few seconds then it shuts down. I have check both door switches and they are fine. Is this a bad relay on the control board or something else ?

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  • KitchenAid Master
  • 713 Answers

Yes, it is probably a bad relay. Usually appliance techs just replace the whole control board, because those relays can be hard to find and buy.

Posted on Oct 14, 2019

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: microwave door

It sounds like the mount which holds tension on your door latch heads (door hooks) is broken. You can confirm that by pushing up on the door hook. If it goes up with no real resistance, the spring is unhooked. Fixing that would require disassembly of the door (by separating the panels) and repairing or replacing either the door hook assembly or the door panel inside.

Posted on Nov 01, 2006

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: Unit shuts off (JVM1340WW002) and blows fuses

Generally speaking, if the high voltage capacitor is shorted, the fuse will blow as soon as you hit the START pad. When the HV cap fails, I've never seen one do anything but short. If it's a few seconds or so into cooking, it's usually the high-voltage transformer. There may or may not be a burning smell. The cooling fan often will dissipate the smell. What can happen to the transformer is an expansion of the windings to the point where a couple of hot spots eventually make bare spots which touch, then the short causes the fuse to blow. When it cools, they aren't shorting anymore. It's possible it's the mag or something else, but not too likely. You can (carefully!) disconnect the primary leads from the HV transformer then run the oven, making sure the wires are free and clear. If the fuse blows, the problem is in the low-voltage side. If it doesn't the trouble is in the HV side. If you broke a seal (tamper tag) or left any other evidence that you were inside the microwave, your warranty will be voided. Some parts may be covered, but the labor warranty usually expires sooner. Be careful.

Posted on Nov 07, 2006

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: Jenn-Air Microwave M169B 11 years old.

You should be able to get a replacement keypad, and that's not a hard job for a DIYer.

If you're interested, post your correct brand and model and I'll give you a more specific suggestion.

(Your post subject says Jenn-Air M169B put it's posted under Sharp R-316FS so I'm not sure which you have).

If it's a Jenn-Air, you can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

You can usually find Sharp exploded views by entering your FULL model number here: http://www3.sears.com (the 3 is correct)

You can order Sharp parts from there or from Tritronics at http://www.wehaveparts.com

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jan 21, 2008

hmlee390

  • 736 Answers

SOURCE: Rattling coming from top grill on Kitchenaid microwave

the gril at the top (above the door) usually comes off with a couple of screws or just pulls off .. on some you have to take the cabinet apart ..... inside you might find a flat filter put in at a slant .. its often a grease and smell filter that contains activated charcoal .. when it gets clogged then it can rattle around as air tries to get around it .. you can replace it or just leave it out ..

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

al87294

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Samsung Bake & Toast Microwave MT1066SB starts heating but shows

getting t-4 on clock display and random beeping<br /> cancelling and unplugging don't fix it<!-- from fixya rte -->

Posted on Aug 13, 2010

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