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Thomas Gordon Posted on Sep 18, 2019
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Heating element not working ,replaced element and fuse and thermistor .No code on dryer Kenmore elet HE3

2 Answers

MARLON KELLER

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  • Expert 111 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 20, 2019
MARLON KELLER
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First you need to make sure you are getting 220v to plug at wall and next at terminal block at the rear of machine. The motor and display only require 110v to operate but the heating element requires 220v so a tripped breaker or faulty power cord could cause that issue. Next I would check for continuity on hi limit t-stat, cycle limit t-stat, heating element, and thermal safety and fuses. If all test fine then your control board is the problem

J Rosado

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  • Master 1,202 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 19, 2019
J Rosado
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I would check for power to the element and back to the source that switches the element on.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 878 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 09, 2007

SOURCE: replacing the heating element Kenmore dryer 110 64892

nestor, on the posted model, you want to drop the lower front panel. Take a puddy knife and push in on the clips on each side and it will pull off. Kill the power to the dryer. On the right you will see the heater housing. The housing will have a front deflector. You can remove that deflector by removing the screw on the bottom or simply just bend it down out of the way. Remove the 2 wires on the left that attach to the element itself. On the left side of the housing there will be a quarter inch screw that holds the element in place. Use a small socket set to get it off. Now the element will pull right out of the housing. Sometimes they are difficult to pull out but it will come out. Did you ohm out that element to make sure that was the culprit? Catriver.

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Anonymous

  • 5911 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 24, 2008

SOURCE: Heating element

The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.

Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.

CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.

PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.

Anonymous

  • 1028 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 19, 2008

SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts

that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in

Anonymous

  • 261 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 07, 2008

SOURCE: Error Code E1

Usually when the thermistor is repaired the high limit is replaced, I dont recall the E 2 except a manual is under the console

Anonymous

  • 212 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 24, 2009

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer won't heat up

thermal fuse is bad. replace fuse. clean out vent duct. thermal fuse usually blows when there is restricted air flow over heating element.

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Kenmore 70 Dryer won't heat

Hi Jason
There is no fuse to replace only thermostats/thermistors...and heating element.
Here is some things to check:
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I have a Kenmore Elite HE3 model 11094834200 it heats up for about 5 minutes and than stops heating. I replaced the thermistor thinking that was the problem but it wasn't. If I try re starting t

Number 34 is the sensor strips located on the rear bulkhead inside the dryer. Clean them thoroughly with Windex or 409. Dryer sheets build a wax buffer on them sensors that moisture cannot penetrate. If no wetness is detected the control shuts her down thinking them clothes is did. Either that or you forgot to reconnect the sensor wire when puttin her back together Kimosabe.

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My Kenmore Elite HE3 electric dryer is not heating. At first it worked off and on, now all I can get is a very slight warmth after running it over and over. I have tried different cycles, different temps,...

Hi tclem66251

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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1answer

Kenmore Elite HE3 dryer tumbling but not heating

Hi mmmyers1989...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me
0helpful
1answer

The dryer has power and works, but there is no heat?

If the heating element shorts to ground the unit will overheat while running until the thermal fuse trips cutting off power to the motor. I recommend replacing the heating element, and the thermal fuse. Be sure to check for a blocked exhaust vent before starting the dryer to prevent another failure. If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a appliance repair technician.
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check the thermal fuse and also check to make sure you have 220v at the outlet.
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My Kenmore Elite (Whirlpool) HE3 elctric dryer is no

A dryer not heating usually means that either the heating element is burned/broken (open circuit); a thermal fuse in line with the heating element is blown or; a thermostat is faulty.

Dryer needs to be partially disassembled to diagnose with a multimeter.

Charlie
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HE3 dryer stops drying with code E1

Hi, how are ya?

The E1 is a thermistor problem. It's a little black fuse that's next to the thermal fuse on the duct housing.

It's pretty easy to fix. You need to take the bottom pannel off and then the black blower housing.

Good luck :)
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Define checked everything. Usually when your dryer is not heating but blowing air its one of three things...
1. Thermal fuse in dryer
2. Thermistor in the dryer
3. Heating element in dryer

You need a signal meter with continuity check to accurately test all three componets. Normally the fuse and thermistor are in a set and cost less than 25 bucks. They are easy to replace if you are good with taking things apart. If the element is bad then you need to make sure your lint trap and exhaust hose are clean and kept clean. That is the main cause of the element burning up when it gets lint collected inside the dryer cavity.

In a pinch if the element is bad you can simply find where the metal has broken and try bending the rod so that it touches. The element has to be one solid piece so if there is breaks try and connect them back together until a new one can be purchased.

Please unplug the dryer before doing anything mentioned above.

Hope this helps
TankMurdock
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